With a trouble free engine idling pushing a slide open will not make any change whatsoever. When pushing your left slide open fuel is dribbling out and flooding that side which should not be happening. High float level, blocked air bleed or way out of whack sync are likely causes and yes you need to...

Every other 1500 on the road runs just fine with the stock spark plug and had nothing to do with your problem so go back to a standard plug. You likely have an issue with the right carb running rich.

The black meter lead always stays on the common (COM), your red is in the current reading plug which is not for voltage measurements. The fine print on the meter current reading port states max. 10A unfused which was presumably breeched and likely cooked the meter. Some meters of that ilk will be fu...

They just make a simple loop under the frame and on top of rubber mat.

Identity theft is a crime that does not get investigated and no one gets prosecuted unless you are a big Japanese (go figure no less) corporation (Sony) who had their email system hacked a few years ago and everyone from Obama, CIA, FBI all got involved. Something wrong with that picture or is it me?

I would not bet my life on what the 1500 manual states as there are inaccuracies, omissions, errors and hold-overs from previous year manuals after changes were made. Only the '88-89 models had the 2 second fuel pump prime when key 1st turned on. To the OP there gotta be more to this story. What is ...

Check for a blown 30A main fuse which is attached to starter relay A just to the right of battery.

Use your '95 water pump, intake manifolds/carbs, gear position sensor and starter on the '89 engine as those parts had revision changes.

Is this question regarding your 1983 or just what?

The air hose outlet will be found in the right saddlebag.

It may have been camera angle in first pic but this one I would not be concerned about anything.

A high charging voltage will deplete electrolyte and should not be much greater than around 14.2V. A wet cell battery is old technology and has been stressed over and over on the forums to use an AGM type which eliminates the maintainance of checking levels.

15V? Something going on there as it should not go that high. Did the alternator shop put a load on the alternator? They should have told you it is charging X amps @ X voltage.

My alternator & battery are new, but the alternator seems to be dumping everything to ground, 12.2V. Bike runs great for about 8 miles until the battery dies. Remote the alternator to a different battery and it charges at 13-15 volts, increasing with RPM. No recent maintenance activity, just died o...

Popping back through a carb when cracking the throttle open is often a symptom of a very lean mixture and would usually be due to a carb not being able to supply the correct volume of fuel in either the main or secondary main circuit or a vacuum leak in one of the emission components. Does it pop ba...

The choke rod on the left carb faces forward and right carb rearward. A vertical spring loaded shaft via linkage under the air horn is what operates the in-out of the rods. Remove the air box and spray carb clean on these areas while moving choke lever to dissolve any build up of crud which should t...

Haley wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 02, 2018 9:02 am

Disconnecting the alternator did not stop the battery drain rate of 2.8milliamps.

Your mA draw is well within specs and considered normal, it is not a problem.

Just transferring the plastic would not cause any problems. If you used the electrical parts/wiring harness of the '96 rear where the cruise/reverse modules and diodes are located then yes that will cause problems as the 88-89 wiring is unto itself. This makes the most sense... Do I need to replace...

Just transferring the plastic would not cause any problems. If you used the electrical parts/wiring harness of the '96 rear where the cruise/reverse modules and diodes are located then yes that will cause problems as the 88-89 wiring is unto itself.

It's odd, because I have NEVER had this brake cleaner do anything to ANY other plastic on my bike before. In fact, in the picture, you can see the fuel door flap right next to the knobs, which is clearly unpainted ABS, and also got splashed - but was completely unaffected. The Panasonic radio knobs...

How do I test the pump, petcock, and filter to see which ones is responsible? Fuel filter is easy to quick test, put your lips to it and if you can blow through it is not clogged. Take the hose that goes to filter from fuel tank and crank engine over, gas should flow. If OK reattach hoses and remov...

I have found a possible culprit, the accelerator pump does not prime when the bike key is on or when I go to move the throttle. No gas comes out the little fangs, I call them, on top of the carburetors. I figured this out when I looked and didn’t see any gas. I dropped a little gas in each hole and...

The axle floats and is self centering while torquing and you sure don't want to start tightening a pinch bolt first to make everything seem OK gap wise, pinch bolt always gets tightened last. The gap does seem a little excessive and the first thing that comes to mind would be the distance collar tha...

Well then it must have been smaller restrictors I concocted. My mercury stix were on loan and have since gone back to use them. BTW what line did MotionPRo sing to you as to why it was not working as designed?

Common issue when using those gauges on the 1500 engine. My solution IIRC was to use two tubes of the tool for each intake manifold and/or lower the engine RPM a bit. Their fluid is too lite IMO.