Sounds like you are relying on an on board volt meter which could be flaky. Always use a test equipment meter with leads attached at the battery posts to diagnose charging system, then at the alternator output post with (+), then with the negative terminal on a good engine ground point.

The intake AIR hose at bottom right front of air cleaner box if not connected will cause a rumbling or gurgling sound more or less with the intensity under your observation and description.

You sure the engine is not locked up? Remove access cover over front crankshaft bolt and try to turn. Installation of the starter needs to go straight in while reverse lever down and not using bolts to force starter in. Some simple voltage checks at B relay large lugs and then at starter post itself...

Stock alternator is only 40 Amps max output at full revs. Even fully excited at idle RPM bike consumes slightly more than the alt can put out at low speed. It's not that it isn't putting anything out at all. Doesn't take much of an RPM increase off-idle for the voltage output to come up. Just don't...

I have done some searching on this forum and from what I can see it looks like the Alternator is not supposed to charge while at idle? I have a volt gauge and I never get any charge till I rev it up. I thought that it would not charge till it reached 2000 or so RPM and then it would charge even at ...

On the way home (slow, easy riding) from dinner last night w/Mrs Mini, all of a sudden I started to hear what sounded like lifter noise. I pulled over, made sure the oil level was good and continued slowly to ride the final five miles home. The noise didn't get worse or louder and I was able to det...

The judicious use of a die grinder with cut off wheel for nuts will do the job without destroying the trunk.

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What exactly is the use of the collector box? Am at the point of putting the exhaust system back on after a frame up (with engine replacement) restoration. Toying with the idea of putting in a straight connector from the header to the muffler. Collector used to produce back pressure? Part of muffli...

True enough the 1500 is one of the most difficult and complex to work on MC ever made because every square inch has wiring, cabling, plumbing, devices and components buried under plastic with no computer diagnostics to aid in malfunctions. Very, very few can recite chapter and verse how every compon...

Only one of the two headers needs to be removed for the collector (muffler) removal and the right side is easiest to take off. Be sure to heat header nuts with a torch prior to removal or you will likely be replacing broken studs also. Replace the copper gaskets that go between head and header after...

I forget the size (10mm?) but tubing wrenches and/or crowfoot flare is your friend here. Give it some penetrating spray then tighten a bit before trying to unscrew, that will often times break the corrosion between nut and line so the line does not twist and bend, a touch of heat might also be advis...

The OEM alternator drive is held onto the rotor shaft by a standard RH thread nut. Remove nut and drive should pop off splined rotor shaft.

Your clutch when pulled in is not fully disengaging if motorcycle starts and acts normal when in neutral. Check fluid level in reservoir for clutch master then bleed, check clutch lever for wear along with bushing-pushrod for wear.

That should turn right out after applying heat from a torch to the casting.

The key is to find a special application horizontal designed pump not one intended to be mounted vertical in a car tank.

There is a pick-up for an oil scavenging pump at the rear of engine where you were working, could it have been disturbed? The breather attachment port is on the rear cover BTW.

If it were mine I would do a compression test followed by a cylinder power balance test pulling individual plug wires off looking for a consistent RPM drop among the cylinders and possibly an elimination of the knock. Then an oil pressure test gauge reading if the knock can be identified to a partic...

if it isnt a choke why does it say choke on the lever? Enrichment system would not fit in the space provided on lever. ;) A conventional choke is a device that limits incoming air to the carburetor providing a rich mixture and will have a fast idle cam opening throttle plates to boost RPM. An enric...

Just a quick question, why must I use the intake manifold and carbs off of the 94 engine? I am going to swap the carbs and manifold, for my knowledge what are the differences between those years on the intake side of the engine. I am not very knowledgeable on these bikes Thanks The 88/89 intakes ha...

You will need to use the newer style water pump and gear position sensor behind front cover on the '88 engine and while at it use the intake manifolds and carbs off the '94.

Douse it with a little silicone spray and then pry evenly taking care not to dent bowl gasket surfaces, using a paint stir stick or similar will protect. A word of advice is to replace those 30yr old O-rings and float bowl seals.

What you are seeing with the test light is probably the normal Honda specification draw of up to 5mA. Fully charge the battery and re-test using a meter capable of reading mA. Normal draw is around 3mA. Test charging system output voltage at battery during idle and again at 2k RPM. Have the battery ...

I noticed that when I back off the choke to the point of the bike dying, and then reapply it, that it seems that there is a whoosh of vacuum release tied to that action. Is that consistent with anything or normal? Not a vacuum release. A carburetor controls RPM for a given load by the amount of thr...

Yes the temp will rise at high speeds and this is because the coolant is taking the heat from the heads like regular anti freeze can't do, The reg anti freeze scalds away from the hot head there for it's not getting hotter because it's not doing it's job where as the Evans is taking that heat in th...