You wrote it is still rideable. Does the starter work normally while in neutral or does the clutch lever need to be pulled in to now start or push starting or what to get the engine going?

This man had a similar problem and I suggested drilling the 1/2" holes.
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/8 ... st-5898470

Good to hear that the slow jets were finally replaced and you now have a factory back to specs running engine.

I use to know the diode number from radio shack, around 10A? IIRC black and silver color, Mouser would be next avenue.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/det ... -T/1933912

What specific part(s) numbers did you use?

If they used the flip-up method of raising the saddlebags and trunk for the tire change it is common enough for the starter relay regulator to become unplugged due to stretching the harness. Look for a red connector under seat left side at the rear.

U.S. spec machines have headlight ON with ignition switch and just the Hi-Lo rocker switch on left side controls. I would venture to guess the control you have with the red buttons is not even for a 1500. Your white lettering control is similar to what we got for right side. U.K. spec has headlight ...

So I am 99% sure my ECU is shot. Not so fast. :) I am no big fan of coincidence in that the ECM is suddenly toast after hitting a bump and maybe hearing something rattle off the bike. The wiring harness is fairly complex on these machines and a fault in one part can show up in a few different ways ...

But remember bike in gear with side stand down kills engine which the splice wire to ECM probably plays a role in triggering event. So the neutral light remained on with gear shift sensor wire disconnected? Too early to fully comprehend your post but would remove that one wire from ECM with everythi...

With key ON raise and lower the reverse lever which should make that reverse relay under the seat at the crossbar click, does it? Probe for voltage on yellow/red wire at starter relay A which is to the right of battery with key ON and start button pushed. If voltage there next check for voltage on B...

Sounds good going to the next connector above the fan. You will then go to the ignition section of manual testing each switch wire continuity to rule in or out the switch. Note there is a splice in the neutral wire which does not show in start/reverse section and goes to the ECM. And is why the diag...

You need to narrow down the possible short to ground path and the easiest and most efficient way to do that with no guess work is at the wire connectors. I would start at the 22P red under the seat due to easy access and is about midway in the wiring scheme. Locate the LtGrn/Red wire on the forward ...

:) https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=61363&p=353747#p353747 :) Poor fuel mileage on a 1500 is the exception rather than the rule. One needs to delve into the machine to find the cause and not just write it off as normal because of being unable or unwilling to diagnose the problem. W...

I found this to be clear enough.
https://www.sheriart.net/honda/

If it has been that consistent and only under acceleration how about some kind of engine miss or skip going on which would surely give you that sensation? Does it behave exactly the same in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear from 25 to 34MPH? If not as pronounced in fifth gear I would be leaning towards the engi...

Fourth year was time for another set of E3s this time no beads balanced them myself with lead remarkable improvement in ride Time to get a little creative here. :ugeek: Back in the day we could on-car spin balance tires in troublesome cases. You would remove hub cap and snap lock a manually operate...

Yep, that was my first idea because when I got the bike it had a surging idle and rpm would increase when spraying some brake cleaner under the rubber mat. Turned out to be a loose carb boot, but I changed almost all of the vac lines down there while I had the carbs off (I included an overview in m...

For a while, I was considering whether this could be an ignition thing, but then I should not have lean-looking plugs, right? Beside the occasional high tension spark plug lead the 1500 ignition systems are pretty much bullet-proof. A problem with the ignition system would not cause the idle mixtur...

Ok, thanks for the confirmation that this indeed means a significant lean condition, so that is a piece of diagnostic info I can definitely work with! And even if it is not the cause of the stumble, it needs to be fixed anyway! I did the sync because some people seemed to think that could cure the ...

I know it is too late now but applying heat to the nuts prior to removal would prevent breakage of the studs.

ct1500 wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 09, 2020 7:14 pm

Replace parts for the chance of a more successful outcome next time.

Pilot jet replacement strongly recommended.

Your RPM went up about 200 with the partial intake air block so it is running very lean. The lean running condition needs to be diagnosed whether it is one, the other or both engine banks which are causing the problem. Doing a sync on an engine with running problems is bass ackwards. :) Carb cleanin...

Thanks wing admin, I know the company who make these in the uk, I spoke to them today and they did tell me their collector is quite a bit louder than the OEM as it's just a straight through pipe, I'm wondering if I could stuff a DB killer into it A straight thru pipe, direct from the manufacturer a...

Pulls great and has tons of power but can't take off from a standstill. :) You do not know how well these things can run when all is okay. :) It is 99% of the time carburation when these don't run right. Check for RPM changes with carb clean spray by following this here. https://www.goldwingfacts.co...

1. I want to fix my old one to have a spare and learn more about them. Is a regulator and rectifier the same thing on these alts? From partzilla it is like 200 bucks but for what it is it should be way cheaper. Ken has for 25 bucks which seems much more reasonable. But he seems a bit grumpy can't g...