I am going to replace my fuse box on my 83 1100. I have an 85 wing fuse box that will be the replacement.
So yes we have heard of this problem.

Since you know a dealer put it on any chance you could go the dealer and ask?

Soak your cap in a white vinegar over night.

or take the cap to NAPA.

Here is a link to my engine removal. The toughest part is getting that d*** cir clip off the drive shaft. https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=40123 look thru the list here and see if you might do any of the how to's https://goldwingdocs.com/How-To-Articles-GL1100.asp Happy Wrenching

you are correct the same on f & r on the 80 & 81

Honda part # 45107-415-006 is for the 81 front piston. Google the number and it will tell you a lot of info.
The parts catalog shows only 1 piston is required on 80 and 81

If you look at the back of the fuse box you'll probably find a lot of black stuff there. I am going to replace the fuse box on my 83 with one from a 95 1500. It uses spades and has 2 more terminals. Look thru the threads on this site and you will see pics of the back of an old fuse box. Who ever has...

If the above does not work.
Put the pad back in and :
Use compressed air to get it out.

and as a last resort use a grease gun to push both pistons out.

Disconnect the alt belt. to see if the noise goes away.

Put a cotton rope down the hole. Turn the engine until you feel the piston stop. You can remove the seals and not lose the stem down the hole.

Yes you can. The hardest part will be finding the ears that hold the headlight, once the fairing is removed.

I finally broke down and bought a hand pump.

Here is a link that has a lot of replacements.

https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/ ... =11&t=1923

Is the trailer hitched to the bike? Some need to be hitched for a good ground.

There are 2 hoses connected to the air box. Both toward the rear of the box. Pull those off and the air box should pull right out.
Pictures would help us help you.

#1--Sounds like an add on by the P.O.

#2-- 7/8 yes

#3--no idea about the valve. It does get taller.

#4--Most put a spacer on top of the spring.

Earl is correct.

The diode is located inside the tape from mother Honda. It is on the left side about 2 inches in, behind the regulator.

Glad you got it running. Show us a pic ...

Glad you survived your ordeal. Do not use fiberglass to fix it. Fiberglass will not stick to the fairing plastic. Get some black Oatleys plastic pipe cement and black plastic pipe . Shave some pieces off the pipe and mix in some cement to make a slurry solution. If you can not find the Oatleys then ...

go to top of page and hit manuals. It shows how to test thermostat etc...

When I put the rocker's on I torqued them to 20 ft. lbs. He untorqued the 6 bolts for the rack to 15 ft. lbs. This allowed us to turn the engine over with no catches.

Believe it or not but I am having the exact same problem with my left head.
2 Springs broke on the valves. Now I can not get past a spot when turning the crank.
Will let you know tomorrow on what my mechanic does.

When you changed the timing belts did you check the valves intake and exhaust? That made my bike perk up a lot.

They are chromed plastic.
They have a clip behind them and they attach to the lower fairing.

That would be real nice to have. How many before me??