Thank you for the detailed instruction. That is a great color.

Perhaps it left an air bubble in the filter due to the short run, or perhaps the valves leaked a bit into the cylinders during the long spell sitting still.

If you want to hide the wires like Honda did, then you need to modify the bars with some slots. Wire length is an issue if you want higher bars. I dropped mine and no issues with wires. The throttle and clutch cable length needs to change unless you don't mind a bunchy setup.

I have a Hydraulic but not installed it yet. Not reported as a load reduction, but less peak pressure. A new cable and housing can help for less money. No info on the quick shifter. I do not use the clutch for upshifts. Just load the shifter slightly then relax the throttle for a shift.

Slides need to move free when near horizontal. Not good enough if the slide vertically.

Looks like somebody loved it, you will too. Not a fan of the seat, but lots of ways to fix that. Let us know when you get the belts changed, that is always to be done first since these are interference engines. When a belt goes south, so do the valves and pistons.

Valve timing is a compromise. You will note most advanced automotive engines now have variable valve drive to improve efficiency. Maximum compression pressure is different at different valve advance and engine rpm. You are checking it at very low rpm (150 rpm) and honda did not want to maximize comp...

One option is to use the rear fender and turn signals from a 1978. Honda moved them off the grab rail to near the taillight and it works well for many saddle bags. I run the Hondaline saddle bags and the 1978 rear fender did the trick without really changing the bike much.

Sure seems to me the carburetor sliders are getting stuck. The sliders in each carb need to slide like silk, no effort to move. Any small amount of stick can cause them to hang up (they are open at 50 mph, closed at idle). Many shops may not understand how smooth they need to slide. Absolutely no lu...

I rebuilt a set with the Randyke video and kit, along with Mike Nixons guide. Came out working great. No additional parts were required.

Says you have to add a gear sensor. The fit guide should have said it would not work since we have no gear sensor on our early GWs.

The front blinkers are running lights so those go to LED. The rear blinkers only blink when turning so those stay incandescent and set the load so no issue with the blinkers. All the dash lights become 1SMD LED and are brighter and way less power. The Mofset from a 2006 CBR600 was wire for wire iden...

An air supply pump would not run continuously, just occasionally. So I would not expect it to cause any problems. Replacing all incandescent bulbs with LED would compensate. And if you have not yet updated to a newer Mofset voltage regulator that too helps. Keep in mind the main charging issue is th...

That sounds like a starter with carbon built up inside the unit. No trouble cold, but warm the carbon build up uses current and results in the symptoms you quoted. Take off the starter and disassemble and clean out the carbon. Reassemble with no new parts and you will think you have a new starter.

If anyone wants to buy new front brake hoses, you can use a dual banjo bolt and eliminate the splitter. Removing the splitter makes the system easier to bleed and you have less joints in the system. The splitter is no longer used on modern bikes. Buying two SS hoses instead of three costs less as we...

My 1977 came with bars higher than the 1975 model and since I like the earlier bars I purchased a Superbike bar also called euro bar from Emco I think. Had to machine the oval centerline hole to route the wiring but it did work just fine. Had to shorten the throttle and clutch cables and also the fr...

Rather than replacing a OEM mechanical pump, first consider an electric one. Faster starting is a given as well as great life. But cleaning up your pump is a fine idea as well.

Crumbling rubber is rare, so buy another set of clocks cheep and you can most likely get good rubber bits. If a bike sits near an air compressor, the ozone from the arch does the rubber in, but it is somewhat rare so most clocks have good rubber. If you are not in a hurry, PM me an address and perha...

Appreciate all the detail and knowledge shared.

I too would like to know more about the rear shocks and front fender. Looks like a fine ride. Great Craftsmanship.

Seems to me that the full unit has significant advantage to an H4 Led bulb. The full unit has precise location of the filiment in the Peterson or HC Hites for the reflector. My guess is that the whole lamp solution also limits the depth of the unit into the GL1000 bucket. Sounds like good progress t...

So the engine turns over but not the kick mechanism? I would either leave it alone as they never get used or keep the penetrating oil and tapping. Pretty sure you can remove that rear cover if desired for a deeper soak.

Just to the rear of the battery. The idle stall can also be due to stick sliders. When you rebuilt your carbs, were the sliders buttery smooth. Like could they move without being upside down? Just a bit of a stick can cause a stall on decel.

Next time you see your doctor, be sure to inquire about MBS. It is carried by a number of us and it is very sticky. What is that TLA (three letter acronym) you ask? Multiple Bike Syndrome but of course. No medical cure uncovered but I am accepting funding in my search for a national acceptance of th...

Nice progress, you cannot buy these naked wings new anymore you know.