Got both heads. See above ad "1983 Aspencade parts..."

Cosmo

Boxes and boxes of parts. Both side covers, nearly perfect (small scratch on one), all three **** intact not glued. Linked brake rear master cylinder, rebuilt. Front master, not rebuilt. Controls, speedometer head (Pac-Man speedo - Aspencade, remember), taillight, fender extension, final drive, stoc...

SnoBrdr wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 05, 2018 2:07 pm

For whatever reason you fail to grasp that point.

I further explained that the bulb was EXACTLY the same size as an H4.

YOU failed to see THAT, and continue to post irrelevant material.

I'm done, no more advise from me, on anything.

Cosmo

Pointless. This why this board is so helpful. No one posts unneeded commentary that does not advance the discussion. I HAVE this exact LED lamp. It WORKS, and works well, I can prove it, and do, every night I come home. It was requested I attach a link, and did so promptly. And was called "pointles...

DaveO430 wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 05, 2018 6:07 am

Do you have a link to it or a picture?

Yes:
https://rivcoproducts.com/shop/metric-bikes/led-100/

Cosmo

The LED H4 that I used is no longer than the stocker. There is very little room in the Apsencade fairing for ANY extra length, but this bulb fits and works well.
So, I stand by my earlier statement, that this bulb will fit and work well.

But, I am only one guy, and the naysayers outnumber me.

Cosmo

Many things can cause this:
Tight valves.
Sticky choke.
Sticky or misrouted cables.
Improper springs in carbs.

Jeff

Don't think you will get one to fit inside a stock headlight bucket. Yet, as I stated, I have one in a stock headlight bucket. In a stock fairing. With good results. Real life experience, including the fact that I JUST got home, and it's Waaaaay after dark. Even saw the deer well before panic. Jeff...

I like mine from Rivco, but it's an 1100.

Cosmo

Same here. No clutch lever. Sorry.

You may need only the diameter of the bore, which is cast in the M/C. Most master cylinders use very similar cups, so do not worry overmuch.

Cosmo

The one thing that matters on M/C braking systems is the bore size. Nothing else, from a function standpoint. However, they have to match exactly. So, no matter what bike it's from, if the bore sizes are the same, it'll work the same. Further, all master cylinders that I've seen, have the bore size ...

Rear Master cylinder:
$50 plus the ride. No Paypal. I'm old, and old school. Doing this on a desktop, don't have a fancy phone, either.

Wilcoy02 wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 20, 2018 10:04 am

floor boards and shifter?

No, she was a stocker.

Lube cable.
Make sure cable is routed as per Honda specs.

Yes. Reconditioned. Not tested, yet.

Burlington, WI.
Many of us have filled out our location and it's under the avatar on the right.

Cheers,
Cosmo.

Yup, take them away. The catch?? I don't want the hassle of shipping (and won't, I'll toss 'em).
All from an '83 Aspencade. Pics tell the story. I've got more, lots more.

Worked on the rear master for a couple hours today. Brought it back, wasn't as bad as it looked.
So, it's a good master, all good internals, bit of rust on the pushrod and a 5mm tear on the boot. Otherwise, it works as it should.
$50 plus shipping.

I just stripped my parts bike, and found an interesting tidbit:
The PO, possibly the original owner, has stamped his initials, and "GL11" onto the brake pedal arm. Unless Honda stamps "GBB GL11" onto brake parts, that is.

Cosmo

I've finished stripping the parts bike, and am trying to get the whole to fit in just a couple boxes. So, I've got the following for sale (add shipping): Mirrors, $10 pair (2 pair + 1) Good frame side rail, with good, not repaired, sidestand bracket. $10 Alternator (bike had 40,000 miles) $20, inclu...

Got the parts bike stripped. Rear master looks bad, though I've not tried everything i know to bring it back.

Cosmo

Yes. It does.
20 Characters constitutes a complete message.

Some of this depends upon how good are you at fabricating, and more depends upon how good you are at automotive electrical.
Obviously, I have experience (look at my avatar), and I have all the parts (save a good speedo drive and sensor).
My advice, don't even think about it.

Cosmo.

Check that the fuel is not leaving the carburettors. Long cranking could indicate empty carbs. Normally carburetted engines start nearly instantly.

Cosmo