Still thinking, but getting closer. I'm starting to like the Bushtec hitches. Of the hitches listed in my earlier post, the Add-On, Show Chrome, Kuryakyn, and now Bushtec, are all of these 6-point hitches mounted to the frame or subframe or a combination? Or are all or any 4-point frame mounts with...

OK. You have the premium sound with the power amp. It is a completely different setup.
This may be a dumb question, but are you sure you don't have the front rear balance adjusted to the front only?

Here is the wiring harness only.

http://wingstuff.com/products/36579-spe ... m_search=1

The 82 lists only the stripes, no decals, also no color code and not available. The decals are probably only factory applied.
Again, the best thing to do is to have the color scanned and matched.

Those are actually decals. The parts list only shows what decal goes with the color of the bike. No color code for the decal itself. http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/cyclegiantparts/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=hondamc&a=18&b=79&c=0-DECALS You could take one of the side covers to an Auto paint supp...

They all came with the remote. Problem is some of the dealers left the remotes in the floor models.. Sticky fingers may have removed it. If you want to try to get the remote from a Honda car, check someones else's and get the FCC ID number. They were the same for 2001 to 2004. Not sure when they cha...

When adjusting the rear pre-load setting, set it to "0" and then try setting it to "25". Listen for when ti starts to labor. You will hear a distinct change in the sound. Should change right at 1 or 2 on the display. If not, it may need the fluid topped off in the rear shock pre-load adjuster. Part ...

Are you planning on changing all the rubber lines from the master cylinders to the calipers completely? They are all rubber, so all would age the same. What about the lines for the clutch. And remember, the stainless lines you put on are still rubber under the braid. Just seems like a waste of money...

WingAdmin wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 31, 2018 9:28 pm

You can find it online in the Manuals section:

https://goldwingdocs.com/Manuals.asp?type=GL1800

Look under the "Honda Goldwing Reference" section, you'll see it as "Solving brake shudder on GL1800".

I'm glad you could convert the document I sent you. That will be a big help to others.

I've been trying to attach a DOC file and keep getting an error that it is an incorrect file format.
Just how do i attach this file?

Rocky Bleed. Air is trapped in the high point on the brake system . Standard bleeding sequence will not purge this air. The Rocky Bleed involves opening a connection at the top of the system to purge this "bubble" of air.
I tried to attach the document but the site won't accept a .doc file.

The ones near the rear of the frame seem to come on slow. This was a design problem. The newer models had a heavier gusset at that triangle point.
I saw one that looked like a scratch in the paint, the beginning of the crack just beside the weld.

There are other areas that are known to crack on pre 05 models. Here is a picture of where to look. The most common is right behind the passenger footrest. You will have to remove the passenger floor board and silver cover. You may also be able to see it from underneath the bike. 19788324.ncXg7gL2.j...

Any time you are looking for those type of parts, you will have to look under the OEM section. Not aftermarket.

The signal cancels in a number of ways. Turning the wheel, and distance and speed. If you are going slow, it will not cancel until you make the turn.
At higher speeds it cancels after about 12 flashes. Just reset it.

Very possible that the cable is not attached at the lever end. You will have to pull the left pocket to see this. Pull the left side trim to accesss the screws that hold the pocket in.

You can try to reset the ECM. Start bike cold and let it idle until the fans come on. DO NOT touch the throttle. It may take a while for the fans to turn on, then shut it down. See how it idles after the reset.
Also, the idle will change if you are pulling on the clutch, this is normal.

If you look up under the front at the headlights, there are two manual adjustments on each side. One for vertical adjustment and one for horizontal.
Should be 12mm plastic nuts.

FAT MAN 65 wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 25, 2018 8:55 am

Thanks for the reply. cihilb.Sounds like you hit it. It is more pronounced around that rpm. I hope it's not anything serious.Thanks again.

Mines been doing it since new. Never got any worse.

Probably the alternator whining. My 2004 had it and now my 2012 does it, only louder. More pronounced over 2500 rpm. The newer Wings, 2006 and up have a more powerful alternator that I think turns at a higher speed which would make it even louder. I have heard a lof the the newer cars with a whine a...

Remove the right side engine cover (where dipstick is). You will see the reverse actuator assembly. Two cables, some linkage, and what looks like a spring. Spray some lubricant all over the spring (silicone will work, or WD 40, messy). Let it sit for a while and try it again. May take a few tries. H...

Yes ... that is a lot of mileage on hoses. You might want to start thinking about replacing them. Usually the first one to show problems is the one pictured below. Under pressure it becomes fat and swollen. Unfortunately, replacing all the hoses is not an easy task. The ones under the intake manifo...

How many times have you replaced hoses on your car as normal maintenance? 20 years old and 100,000 miles and most are still good.
The biggest problems on the Wings are loose hose clamps, especially the ones under the fuel tank.

It's easy to see if the recall has been done. Just look for the punch marks on the frame above the rear brake fluid reservoir.

823JIM wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 09, 2018 10:17 pm

I have used this with good results.

Too bad Radio Shack closed most of their stores.