Sounds like you have a dead short somewhere?

If you turn the key off then on - does the panel light up again?

I hope you are OK, that's the main thing. Overall I think you should be able to repair the damage - looks like you need to replace a chunk of fairing in the front and the section of the rear box as well. The rear looks like you have the section but it is just bent out of shape on the right arm rest....

Len,

Thanks for the kind and generous offer - but I would need one a bit closer - it would cost me a Gorilla to get it here... plus I sold my old GL1100 to Darwin a few years ago.. I would be wanting one in a similar conditions for the same price haha

If only you were not a gazillion miles way I would jump on that -

Looks like it is all there - and you have plenty of spares as well hopefully someone will pounce quickly for you..

Check all your main battery connections - positive and negative, plus the earth lead. Make sure they are all clean and tight. Possible main fuse if original could be a bit suspect - may as well check that. Hydrolocked- I wouldn't think so unless you left it laying on its side for a few hours. Check ...

Hi,

The shift order is all the way down is 1st gear.
Up for Neutral, then up for second, third, fourth & fifth.

I would suggest a carb sync if you have removed and cleaned and reinstalled them - if they are out of sync they do sound like a bucket of bolts when idling.

I presume the noise goes away as soon as the revs pick up a bit?

Maybe you could try this. Get some instant glue and place one drop on the stub end of the key you have left. Then insert it in the lock and press down for 30 seconds - and hopefully it will bond to the other broken piece and you can then retrieve it very carefully. Other than that - maybe take the i...

If the diode is no good - then you will not be able to start the bike - unless you bypass this circuit. The purpose of this circuit is to disable the start procedure if you try to start the bike whilst "in gear". The associated wiring from the solenoid connection is also an issue - but I'm no electr...

The wires - probably the clutch safety circuit... and the solenoid wiring is toast. That's where your problem lies - you let the magic smoke out...

If you are comfortable with your abilities - then I would possibly look at cleaning the carbs yourself - at least that only costs you the time it takes to pull/clean /reinstall them, but the tank needs some cleaning first by the sound of it, no good in cleaning them and pumping crap back into them..

Thanks WingAdmin,

I was wondering how you would like the tyre, and appreciate your eloquent comments...

Probably just a leftover from the old oil.. If you can pull the clutch and zip tie it back to the handlebar, then start the bike and let it run "in gear" on the centrestand. Do that a few times and possibly change the oil again - it will loosen up - the plates have probably got some sludge build up ...

That petrol tank looks really nasty at the filler cap. I hope it is not the same inside - as it looks pretty crusty. You definitely need to run a fuel filter to stop any sediment and fine rust particles from entering the carbs. But glad to hear it is running - so now it is only maintenance to bring ...

That's a good result so far, keep turning the motor over by hand - but I would still lubricate the cylinders with oil or fluid in them - just to wash or clear any small debris up the cylinder walls. Might be worthwhile checking all your ground points on the bike - particularly for the starter to mak...

For question 3 - follow your wiring backwards from each light and make sure you have a good ground connection - that is more than likely what is happening.. If you have corroded connections make sure to clean them up - this should solve this issue.

Welcome

I've run my Valkyrie with a car tyre for the last 1800 kms, and I am happy with how my bike handles.

As WingAdmin says it feels different.

I will be interested in his observations a bit further down the road..

I think you have purchased a project. You will need some patience and time to see if it is going to be a goer or non goer. I would start by plugs out and if you have access to an endoscope camera - look into the spark plug holes and check the cylinders out.. If not then pour a little bit of kerosene...

18th week of 2016 - so not that old - but as mentioned - probably time to get another one - if you want some form of comfort in knowing a new one will give you peace of mind.. cheers (posted from a guy that was running an 8 year old tyre on a valkyrie- replaced with a darkside car tyre) - and did ha...

Probably OK to extract the nail and insert an internal patch. But look closely at that crack - how old is the tyre ??

Saw something similar in a house a long time ago, instead of a piece of fuse wire in the circuit - there was a 4 inch nail routed thought the fuse - it was replaced very shortly after.

Damn,

I was really liking to see the original title.

I would check the alternator output and monitor the battery voltage - to see if it is charging. Or you could have an electrical short which is draining the battery.

The four hole washer is for your fuel tap...

No sliding or even any hint - so far