That was also going to be on my list of things to check - being an "automatic" would make it quite unique..

I would go and have a look - for that price - maybe check the mileage - hook up a battery and see if all the electrics work. Push it in gear and see if it rolls easily before trying any further to start it. Probably only turn it over with the kill switch engaged- and even then I would maybe want to ...

Sorry I was just thinking ahead. My rule of thumb is you turn each idle mixture screw in until the bike makes a noticeable stumble - then back the idle screw off half a turn - you might need to do this adjustment on each carb a few times as you will also need to adjust the main idle down/up as you g...

First question - how long have you owned it? Second question - is there a maintenance history? Third question - have you recently done any maintenance on it? Fourth question - is there a good flow of fuel from the tank? Fifth question - disconnect the fuel line to the carbs - does it pump fuel when ...

Borrow some vacuum gauges - should make the bike run a lot better.

You can bench sync with the butterfly valves setting them equally - but final sync use the vacuum gauges with bike running and warmed up.

Fix number 4 - more cleaning - it would be unwise to think after all your cleaning you are willing to hope that fuel running through the system will clear any historic blockage... I would feel more comfortable knowing I have fixed it (hopefully permanently)...you are 99% of the way there - a little ...

Went out last Sunday and entered my Valkyrie in a local club show day event. This club I joined a few weeks ago, it is called the Macquarie Towns Motorcycle Restoration & Preservation Club or MTMRPC. Anyhow I joined to have my 1982 Honda CX500 Turbo bike registered under historic plates - which will...

Run a compression check first if the valves have been adjusted to spec. You might find the issue straight away.

The bike wanting to stop - as mentioned could be many reasons - maybe fuel delivery, or lack of air, lack of spark...

That doesn't sound right to me - what did you do to the front of the motor?

There would be a lot of current running through them on start up and shortly after, but I would possibly check them by (presuming they have been soldered together) removing the heat shrink and checking for a good connection or any corrosion and fix as necessary.

cheers

If it has been sitting outside for several years - has it been under cover? Lots of rust surface or otherwise? The 1988 GL500 has twin carbs which are not the simplest ones to remove and reinstall - so be sure that you don't expect to walk up and jump start it and it will start straight away - there...

Fair chance that is one of the issues - sticking an overrated fuse where a maximum of 30amp is required - only leads to overcoming a short term problem- which then eventually shows itself somewhere else... maybe the PO kept popping fuses - didn't try and find or source the problem - just over compen...

Might be a few pissed off people around there..

Yep that is definitely due for a 70,000 mile service. Take your time and get all the carbon out - a good wash down internally and clean up the commutator as well with some fine emery paper - then wash it down again. Make sure to clean out between the commutator segments as this is where carbon can h...

Looking OK and being OK is not the same. Do you have a test light or a multimeter? You should be able to source another connector quite easily - you could see a junk yard and just cut off the connector and wiring you need from another similar harness, or if the connector is OK on your harness then j...

I would start by checking your main fuse located underneath the solenoid plug - remove the plug first and open it up - it could be your main problem... but I would be getting those solenoid wires - resoldered properly and it is a bit difficult to see the yellow stator wires behind don't look that br...

Sounds like you have a dead short somewhere?

If you turn the key off then on - does the panel light up again?

I hope you are OK, that's the main thing. Overall I think you should be able to repair the damage - looks like you need to replace a chunk of fairing in the front and the section of the rear box as well. The rear looks like you have the section but it is just bent out of shape on the right arm rest....

Len,

Thanks for the kind and generous offer - but I would need one a bit closer - it would cost me a Gorilla to get it here... plus I sold my old GL1100 to Darwin a few years ago.. I would be wanting one in a similar conditions for the same price haha

If only you were not a gazillion miles way I would jump on that -

Looks like it is all there - and you have plenty of spares as well hopefully someone will pounce quickly for you..

Check all your main battery connections - positive and negative, plus the earth lead. Make sure they are all clean and tight. Possible main fuse if original could be a bit suspect - may as well check that. Hydrolocked- I wouldn't think so unless you left it laying on its side for a few hours. Check ...

Hi,

The shift order is all the way down is 1st gear.
Up for Neutral, then up for second, third, fourth & fifth.

I would suggest a carb sync if you have removed and cleaned and reinstalled them - if they are out of sync they do sound like a bucket of bolts when idling.

I presume the noise goes away as soon as the revs pick up a bit?

Maybe you could try this. Get some instant glue and place one drop on the stub end of the key you have left. Then insert it in the lock and press down for 30 seconds - and hopefully it will bond to the other broken piece and you can then retrieve it very carefully. Other than that - maybe take the i...