I don't know what the part # for the Air Rider gear indicator/voltmeter is for the one I have. It was on the bike when I got it. It looks like it would get its information on which gear you are in from the connector C59. It is a black 6 pin connector over the right side fan. Here are some pictures o...

I have a gear indicator/voltmeter on mine that says Air Rider on it. I like it a lot but they do not make them anymore. Is this the one you are referring to? It mounts on the cover by the ignition switch in the place where an emblem was.

I would second the idea of replacing that relay. Also, while you have it out, take a look at the contacts where it plugs in and see if there is any corrosion or overheating apparent.

Good deal! It is always good to hear of a successful outcome to a problem.

Well I see that no one has responded to your question so I will take a shot. First thing I would check is the kill switch (run/stop switch). Sometimes the screws can get loose and cause a poor connection. If that is good, check or swap the ignition/cruise relay with a known good one.

I think you are trying to loosen the screws on the rubber isolators connecting the carbs to the intake manifold. I got a set of two screwdrivers, a slotted and a phillips, from Harbor Freight that worked well for me when I removed the carbs. They are extra long and more than enough for the job but t...

Johnf1059 wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 25, 2019 4:28 pm

How precise does this need to be?

That is not a critical level. You can adjust it up or down to tune how you like the way it rides.

I agree that the OEM needles are way better than anything else you get from aftermarket suppliers. If your original needles are bad, the only thing to replace them with is the ones from Honda. Randakks sells a good quality kit for the carbs if you need it, but of course you pay for quality.

I have had that lower panel off several times and I don't recall the CB being attached to the panel. I think it just goes in the opening in that panel and it should just pull away. If you have all the screws removed, you should be able to just pull it back from the CB. It has been a while since I ha...

I used axle grease on mine when I cleaned it out and re-applied the grease.

That is some more pretty pics of the 1500. Looks like we started riding Goldwings about the same time (39 years for me). I got my 1st one (79 GL1000) in 1980 and have had at least one of all the versions except the 1800. This is my current ride.

I found the rear wheel dampers on Partzilla for the GL1500s. Here is what they show fits the Goldwings.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/42617-MT8-000

Big Blue, that is a very pretty 1500 you have. Love that color.

A Yuasa battery is a great one. Here is the one I got a few months ago. It is a Motocross AGM battery made by Yuasa for the specialty market. I had one just like it before and it lasted 7 years. Has a 1 year warranty also.
https://www.batterystuff.com/powersport ... HL-BS.html

I have been using the Avon Venoms on my previous GL1200 LTD and now my GL1500 SE for many years. I too find they have great traction in both dry and wet conditions. I have been getting somewhere around 15 to 18 thousand miles on them. I liked them a lot but they stopped selling them and now we have ...

Here are some tests from the Honda service manual for a no start condition.

My .02 cents, , , , Trust what AZgl1800 (John) says about the Madstad, , ,he knows of what he speaks. The cost of a new windshield is something only YOU can make a decision about. . . HOWEVER, , I also endorse the FIRST attempt to resolve this issue should be to raise that windshield as high as pos...

I wouldn't put another fuse in there. It will be fine with just the stock fuse setup. You don't want any burned up wiring.

On my previous topic loud clunk after take off I found the problem to be the nut that holds the pinion joint to the pinion had come off. This has caused damage to the pinion joint and drive shaft. After reinstalling the pinion joint and torqueing it to 40 ftlbs the problem is no longer there on acc...

Those symptoms indicate to me that your charging system is not working. Get the battery charged up and then when you get the bike running, put your voltmeter on the battery terminals and see what it reads. With the rpms up around 2k or so, you should be seeing somewhere around 14 volts at the batter...

This is a link to the how-to article about replacing the low fuel sensor with the float switch that DenverWinger alluded to.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11167

Hi DenverWinger, Erdeniz, Rambozo, Bellboy40, 1) I grounded the gauge connection at the fuel tank and the gauge goes to Full. 2) As mentioned previously, I did the same with the Low fuel sensor and the lamp goes on. So, both circuits are OK. I just find it "strange" that both Fuel level & Low fuel ...

Try swapping out the #3 Tail main relay with another one. The air pump relay would be a good one. Then see if it works.

As Erdeniz said, it is difficult to troubleshoot an intermittent problem. It seems you are losing power to the ignition circuit. Does the "cruise on" light stay on steady when you are having this trouble? I would check where the previous owner messed with the wiring on that stop/run switch. Could be...

That's great that your Grandpa still wants to ride. Hope you can get it going soon and take him for a nice ride.