If it’s the same article I remember reading it was quite lengthy and the intake was made from scratch. From parts acquired from a hardware store and welded together. There were a lot of bugs to iron out as you can imagine and I can’t remember if he ever did quite get it running smoothly.

I use a magnetic screwdriver with JIS bit and as many extensions I need to get me there.

Fuel shut off diaphragm maybe?

I could find no instructions concerning the O-rings. I called Progressive and they were no help either other than telling me that the 416‘s were discontinued and they no longer service them.

The repair manual calls for 14ft/lbs. I’m not sure I would do even that. There is a fine line between enough and too much torque. Just enough to seal the washer and keep the bolt from backing out.

Millerized post/picture should be a sticky under "How To". I searched and read, far and wide...missed it. I wish I would have seen it sooner, saved me some time. How to remove frozen drain bolt, bottom of fork https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=16118&p=202155#p202155, page 2, about...

I got mine from Cyclemax

If you scroll down to the comments after wing admin’s procedure Millerized gives instructions on how to remove those stubborn Allen head bolts at the bottom of the fork tube. He even has some pics included. A drill bit about the same size or larger than the hole for the Allen wrench. Drill down abou...

The allen head bolt must be removed first before you can bump the seal out. It can be difficult depending on how long it’s been in and how hard it has been torqued.Make sure you have a very tight fitting Allen wrench. Make sure you have a very tight fitting Allen wrench.

http://www.goldwingworld.com/pages/Downloads.htm ?? So if I want, it is free but i have to donate??? f--ck!! For me your are forcing payment for one thing you anounce that it is free? great deal you have here... Shame on you! Got my files on a REAL FREE GROUP! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: Open you...

Thanks for clearing that up for me George. Just judging from how well you took care of your 1200, you and that 1500 will be just fine. I have a feeling it will be in good hands.

Respectfully,
Dan

Congratulations Alemayehu on your new ride. I’m fairly sure you’re going to get many hours of enjoyment out of your 28 year old gem. And by the way, I totally agree with your signature.

That is the first time I’ve heard of a “gizmo”that can kill the GL1500. My opinion, ride it and shift it and if there are no transmission issues, buy it. You will have a hard time coming across a better deal for a Goldwing of that year and model. Timing belts should of ultimate priority.

According to Partzilla it is the same OEM part number

DenverWinger wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 24, 2019 7:14 am

4given wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 24, 2019 7:06 am

Sorry, I’m the one(4given) who asked the question. Somehow I entered it into Wingadmin’s quote.

You should still be able to edit your post - just move your question to a new line AFTER the "{/quote}" at the end.

Thanks Denver, I’ve always been a slow learner.

Sorry, I’m the one(4given) who asked the question. Somehow I entered it into Wingadmin’s quote.

That little MN5-AM22 module is the high voltage generator for the electroluminescent lights. Only produced for a very short time, the EL panels fit into the side reflectors on the saddlebags and light up uniformly behind them. A very poor design, as EL panels grow dim with use, and eventually fail ...

How old or fresh is the battery?

I did the same procedure pretty much on my 96 Aspencade. The only thing that I would add to anyone attempting this is to clear coat the board after you are sure it is thoroughly dry to make sure it stays dry. There are a number of discussions on this topic. Sometimes it works, sometimes not.

Might also check to see if loosening the gas cap restores normal running. If gas cap vents get plugged you can form a vacuum in the tank and the pump can't overcome the vacuum to push fuel. Fix for that is to soak the gas cap in Seafoam overnight..... That too. And as Bluthundr thunder says, both. ...

Just a guess but it sounds like it could be the fuel shutoff or petcock located under the fill door. There is a diaphragm that gets brittle and loses vacuum. Rebuild kits sold online.

Praying for you Mh434.

Seeing where it’s shipped from would make me cautious. For various and obvious reasons. The Tanin I can vouch for. Works flawlessly so far(about a year now).

WingAdmin wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 14, 2019 10:10 pm

I've been using exactly that oil in my 1500 for YEARS. It runs extremely well on it, and the transmission shifts very smoothly.

Same here, ever since I read Wingadmins revue on this oil and it has worked great.

I’ll bet that will turn some heads! Congratulations, it looks in really great shape.