The exhaust pressure may not be a correct way to diagnose the problem, because there is a collector box where all exhaust manifolds are connected.

Pulse generators both work for all cylinders, so they can't be an issue.

It seems like a carburetor issue to me.

If the problem is only on one side of the engine it should not be a ignition problem since the ignition on the left and right cylinders is produced by the same ignition coil and the same PGs, so it should be a fuel related issue. Or maybe the ignition cables are not in the correct plugs, I remember ...

Correct, the pulley outer piece is very soft to be bent easily. It was bent inward at one point and it was rubbing against the right belt, but only when the engine is hot, and the noise could be heard from every point of the engine with a stethoscope.

Also the ambient air temperature sensor and/or the coolant temperature sensor may be the culprit. If they are faulty the ignition timing will be wrong.

You could check partzilla.com for OEM parts.
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda ... ld-wing-se

Here is the video record that I had experienced on my bike when new to me.

A video of your problem would help us to comment better.

I have used power magnets to hold the clips in place for 2 years without any problem.
I have used after market molding and cut it to the correct length, and used two screws, hot glue and two magnets for each clip as shown in the picture.

The procedure in the service manual is given below.

You could check the contacts and the terminals of the ignition/cruise relay and the kill switch. There may be a loose, corroded, damaged contact. Also don't forget to check the fuse #2, if necessary replace it. Another possibility is a bad bank angle sensor which provides the ground to the coil of t...

This picture may help. You can add an on/off switch or a push button on the mic+ (#1) or mic-(#2).
But you will need to do the same modification to the passenger side too.

That is one of the incorrect information forgotten to be updated in the service manual. I tested on my 2000 year bike, and it cycles only when I hit the start button, and it can be heard through the fuel filler cap hole.

When the ignition key is turned on, the pump will cycle a few seconds only on 88-89 year models which have a fuel pump relay. For the other year models it will only cycle while the start button is pressed in.

You could find the parts at partzilla.com.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda ... windscreen

Probably they are not OEM parts. A picture would help to understand better.

You can find OEM parts on partzilla.com.

You could remove the four screws at the end of the grip, and reach the glued parts there, then try to separate the parts from each other by using a flat tool.

Problem is light comes on only 80% of the time, when it does not come on , can drive a few miles than it will come, Unless loose bulb or bad connection, looks like it would be a job to change, maybe there is a no O/D light in my future Curt To verify if it is a bulb problem or not, you could set th...

There is a gear position sensor unit sending gear signal to the ECU and the OD light. The sensor is behind the front transmission cover #7 in the picture, not adjustable I think.

What is the problem with the OD light?

One more thing to consider is that your bike is a 1988 model and its start system and connections are different from later models. Here is a diagram for your bike, to check the connections accordingly if you had done any maintenance or modification job recently. Note that the starter motor has two c...

hap2 wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 11, 2018 3:53 pm

I've done the clutch already & just bought 12 oz (354 ml) for the brakes. Do u think that's enough?

If everything goes fine, yes it will be enough.

I think we can say 60ml (2oz) fluid is used in one brake/clutch set. So we can say at least 240ml (to flush) plus 240ml (to change) of Dot4 is necessary.

Cost could be less than $15.

This video may help.

Overtorqued screw could cause the damage. A picture of the damage would help us to comment better.

Well, after reading this post as well as searching through the Tech Talk, my situation is a little different as only my odometer seems to not be working. All other instruments are working perfectly, including the speedometer and trip meter. I did not see any link on the 'How-to' (i.e. step-by-steps...

These may be the issues I have read and experienced so far. 1.Sticky speedometer needle due to oil/grease collected on the pin where the needle rests on, 2.Stuck aluminum cup due to hardened and collected grease around it (that was the problem on my bike), 3.Similar issues preventing the aliminum cu...