I was reminded of it when I just had the bags off for a rear tire change and remembered the times that I didn't have that simple tool, as you said some "mechanics french" was said. Btw the hole in that tool is 11/32 and it helps if you chamfer the edge of the hole slightly.
Hope it helps everyone.

Not sure how but it gives three short flashes then a long one and then repeats. Not sure if it has a limit on how many cycles it does this or if it just continues till you get off the brake, so far I think it continues. The original owner really farkeled the bike back in 1990 so it could be that old.

CrystalPistol wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 14, 2020 7:25 pm

Two wires total or two wires plus ground?

The one on my spoiler LED is total three wires, one black comes in for grounding it, a red one ties to a brake lamp, third goes to spoiler brake light side.

Mine has two wires total, one in one out.

I guess this one is an antique, it only has two wires. Easy.

The unit was installed by the po with a trailer hitch and somewhere along the way it got disconnected. It was literally plugged into itself with no input from the bike. I have a Honda manual so I have a wiring diagram but couldn't decide what lights to operate with it. All of this was caused by the ...

That's what I was thinking, just do the trunk lights, have the best of both worlds. Thanks for the advice.

I am installing a backoff brake unit w/o any instructions and while I've figured out how it should be wired I can't decide if I want to make all of the brake lights flash or just two. Anyone got any suggestions?

I am going to add an idea for removing the plastic four pronged saddlebags release cable clips. I used it a lot back when I was still turning wrenches for a living. The slot is only needed if you want to go around the cable but all you have to do is push the hole over the four pronged clip to compre...

In the process of changing my cupped front tire l of course checked the rear and found a tire that should never have gone this far. I thought that I was keeping an eye on it but NOT. The rear is rather hidden so check it again if you haven't looked at like last week or so. They can get past you too ...

If you want the boot to just about fall on try heating it. Winter is your friend, just put it over the hot air register for a few minutes and it will stretch like a rubber band.

"Only" have two years on an Interstate battery with no problems with the battery. On the other hand the voltage regulator gave up and the bike shut off after the battery ran down recently. After a recharge and alternator repair the battery seemed none the worse for the experience. I have run Interst...

I recently had to have the alternator rebuilt on my 90 SE by our local rebuilder. They were very familiar with the unit (recognized it before I told them what it was) and I think reasonable on price - $85 with a new regulator.
https://www.cqstarters.com/

Looking back at my concluding comments I see that I forgot to mention that the front wheel bearings were replaced also. If anyone has a "looseness" problem in the front end realize that ANY play in the bearings will give a large amount of movement at the edge of the wheel.

Probably true but the reason I broke it was that I was hurrying to cover the bike because of rain and the rain pretty well stopped me from wanting to go outside to take things apart and investigate. Sorry for making it hard but thanks for the efforts.

Ok, having taken it partly apart it seems that the term strap was not very accurate, tang might be better. It is the bottom of the mast that is flat (thus my thinking strap) that allows the mast to go up and down and lay over forward. Looks like if it could be fixed it would not be worth the effort.

It has a thin flat bar or strap that allows the antenna to only fold one way. You can see the end of it in this picture. Looks like replacement is the way to go.
https://wingstuff.com/products/36588-fm ... ntenna-tip

Well, today I broke the right side (regular radio) antenna at the pivot. Has anyone tried to repair one? It broke at the 'strap' that allows it to lay over.

FYI: if anyone else tries the hammer trick to loosen the bottom bolt (or any other for that matter) you have to hit the bolt like you were mad at it, don't just tap it. If it's a large bolt then hit it like you wanted it to end up in the next room somewhere.

It's trapped between the housing and the flat washer that goes under the seal and provides the upper support for the shock tube. The lower bushing is on the bottom of the piston or shock tube.

Glad to hear that you got them out, small bolts in hard to reach places can be a royal pain and those two can qualify easily!

Before you go to the effort to drill out the bottom screw try taking a flat end punch or metal bar and give the head of the bolt a good wack with a hammer. It will likely rattle the threads enough to loosen the bolt and have the advantage of tightening the Allen hole which will make the wrench more ...

Wanted to let everyone know how the bike turned out. After rebuilding the front shocks and installing progressive springs the steering is much improved, the feel of the front end being mounted in soft rubber bushings has gone away. Thanks to everyone for the help and advice.

It seems that I will be needing to store my bike outdoors for a while and will need a cover for it, any suggestions on a good waterproof cover that won't scratch the paint?

Since I have installed the superbrace without fixing the problem I guess a fork rebuild is in the bikes future. Thanks for the advice.

It has 132k on it and I retorqued the head bearings about one k ago about the same time I took the rear apart to replace the d/shaft flex coupler (and a bunch of other work). I've only had the bike for a little over a year so I haven't put all of the miles on it myself. The problem is that the steer...