As already mentioned, how well it has been taken care of up till now and how recently it has been run is a big deal. Along with the other recommendations be sure to check the age of the tires, when I got my 1990 it had brand new tires on it but they were 5 years old because the bike had been sitting...

Since my bike is a 1990 with 149K on it I understand.

That's right, you did say it's a Valkyrie, duh. Yes, too much oil or a stopped up vent would be the likely problems but I didn't think it could burp oil and not relieve the gas pressure. However, success is a good thing, if it works go with it and enjoy the ride. Never ridden a Valkyrie but I unders...

Ok, with minimal cyl leakage/blowby that's out. If you haven't already you might post the question in the gl1800 section since they would have the most familiarity with the differences from our gl1500s.

Pumping oil up in the air box is never alright, the crankcase will need to vent blowby gasses but not enough to carry a lot of oil with it. Pull the oil dipstick with the engine running and see how much in the way of blowby gasses are coming out of the crankcase. If you have a lot of air blowing out...

Years ago I worked for a guy that told me about the idea and I was really skeptical but believe it or not, it works quite well IF all of the metal is submerged. I do it routinely with coolant thermostats without a problem.

You could just accept what the gauge says as "normal" and look for unusual readings to indicate a problem since you have pretty much done the routine diagnosis. The manual says the sensor should read about 104 ohms at 140 degrees and 44 ohms at 185 degrees and 20 ohm at 230 so that would g...

While I haven't replaced them on my wing, all of the other engines I have replaced the v/c gaskets on I wanted them totally dry and the head surface wiped off with solvent. When I didn't they tended to seep oil.

While this won't really help here because the speedo is running very fast, as Rambozo said, if you use an electric drill (the speed is predictable and consistent) and a short length of old speedo cable you can run the speedo (remember, counterclockwise!) to see what speed is shown before taking the ...

I think that wingadmin said it was the #6 relay a few posts up.

Sorry, since I didn't read all of the posts I can't be sure this hasn't been mentioned but has anyone tried this seller for the 175r16 tires?
https://www.cokertire.com/tires/maxxis-taxi-175r16.html

I think that you can make out his signature in this pic pretty well.

If you look on the bottom rear of the side of the left saddlebag I think you will find that the artist signed the painting. I have almost the same artwork on my 90 SE and it is signed Bottier Hill City SD. I think the original owner blinged the bike up and took it to Sturgis that year and the artist...

Unfortunately, I would have to agree with DenverWinger on this one, unless you can be totally sure that the belts have been changed relatively recently it is a crap shoot that could really bite. Those belts seem to go forever without problems, until they don't, and there likely will not be any warni...

Sounds like there is too much fuel in the float bowl. If the float is set correctly and the needle isn't sticking the float itself could be the problem if it has some fuel in it and has become heavier than it should be. I don't see a spec in the manual as to what the float should weigh so perhaps so...

And verify that you really have enough power in the battery and don't have any poor connections that would make a perfectly good relay look bad. Think of your car, the typical sound a discharged battery causes is just a click from the starter solenoid.

Which solenoids are wanting to replace? Usually they are not difficult to replace just hard to find sometimes.

Does anything on the bike still work or is it really that nothing at all comes on? It sounds like you have voltage showing on your meter somewhere but where? The 30amp fuse on the starter relay just in front of the battery would kill a lot of things but I don't think that it would take out everythin...

Also, since the rock is almost surely at the top of the pad and right now it's being pushed down into the pad, try finding a decent hill that you can let the bike roll backwards without loosing control and hit the rear brake and see it that can dislodge whatever is causing the noise.

Seeing where that groove is I'll bet that there is a rock stuck in the pad and is catching on one of the ventilation holes in the rotor. If you can turn the wheel slowly look for one of the holes that show signs of wear at the edge where the rock is catching in it. Pads won't click, they will squeek...

Do you have disc or drum brakes on the rear and has there been any work done on them recently?

Looking at my 1990 manual I see what I expected to; the main jet is screwed into the main fet holder and that is screwed into the "needle jet". There is a note that the needle jet or orifice that the needle goes into should not be removed since it is pressed into the carb body. This is the...

See if you can find what you are looking for in this parts breakdown:

https://www.hondapartshouse.com/oempart ... retor-assy

If that is the case, before you take the front wheel completely off while the axle is still tight, see if there is any play in the wheel. Tip it side to side and if there is even a little slack then the bearings are worn to the point that front end wobble is a real possibility. It happened to me and...

Best practice would be to install the new bearings before balancing but really unless the old bearings are total junk it won't matter. As far as beads or balance I'm going to have to say that either one will work. I prefer to balance myself but I'm old fashioned so take that with a grain of salt, th...