Rotella T6 5w40 is one of them.

When I got my Aspencade the PO had already added the cornering lights. The bulb had burned out in the left one and the right one only came on when right turn signal was activated. I replaced the bulbs with 50 watt LED, and converted them to stay on all the time (they both go on/off with the ignition...

froche wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 22, 2020 8:03 pm

It runs!

YAY!

Just to clarify in this thread, that's not a potentiometer, it's the throttle position "cancel" switch, cancels the cruise if you twist the throttle fully to "Decel" position. Does nothing other than to detect throttle fully closed. So I guess there were two styles, this one "in-line" with the throt...

I know what it is - an "Audio-Inter-SE-Standardcade" Great job!

It has been stated that a 1500 is more 'comfortable' than an 1800, especially if you are average-to-tall stature....

By now a lot of the Aspencades have probably had all the SE Lighting installed, mine had all the reflectors switched out to lights, CB installed, Cornering lights installed. All of this stuff is available from aftermarket shops... So I nearly have an SE except for the two-tone paint....

Functionally not much difference, mainly cosmetic. SE comes with a two-tone paint scheme, Aspencade only a single color. Cornering lights, Saddlebag and trunk side lights and lighted front side marker, these are all just reflectors on a standard Aspencade. Comes stock with CB radio which was an add-...

Go ahead and pull the drain plug with bike on the side stand, then you could sit on the bike and balance it upright to get out any more oil.

5mA is even better (never researched it) but even 50mA (like my jeep) is next to nothing. Of course the car battery is much bigger :) At any rate 600mA parasitic load is WAY too much.. Had to troubleshoot a 500mA draw in the Jeep once, finally found it. Deb had left the vanity lights in the passenge...

Fuse #13 is in the Relay box next to the Fuse box labeled "Backup". This always-on Circuit supplies power to clock and radio preset memory among other things when the bike is off. I would normally expect to see only 50mA or so draw on this circuit.

Buddy of mine moved from Colorado to Arizona recently, but before he did that he registered his truck and 5th Wheel RV in SD... cheap.

He uploaded the picture as "reverse circuit.jpeg" . Try saving the file as .jpg instead of .jpeg then resend it and I bet it works.

Windows 10 (and Server 2016/2019) have a flaw where "Certificates" for trusted Software can be "spoofed". Does not affect Windows 7. Wise to do the patches. Tuesday was the last official round of patches for Win 7......

.... and when the engine starts to sputter, hit the choke to get every last drop....

The Stator itself looks brand-new, it has most certainly survived. Otherwise you'd be seeing black crispy-looking shellac on the windings on some or all of the stator poles. It is an interference fit, keep at it and it will eventually come off.... As to the cracked wire insulation at the housing fee...

stator - If it isn't broke don't fix it. It's usually external factors that kill's em, (shorted/burnt connectors, bad rec/reg), they don't usually go bad on their own. Inspect the shellac insulation on the stator windings, dark shellac is ok, crispy/burnt shellac is not. Replace stator if insulation...

Since one set of contact points and one coil fire Cyls #1 and #2, and the other set fires Cyls #3 and #4, this suggests that both sets of contact points and coils are working if Cyl #2 and #3 are OK. So I'd start by checking spark to #1 and #4, could be bad spark plug wires or faulty spark plug caps...

It didn't come from the factory injected, somebody would've had to convert it with a bunch of aftermarket/custom parts.

I'd say after 73000 miles and never serviced it most certainly needs brushes. A new set of brushes in mine a few yrs ago and I've never heard it crank over so good! (now 102k miles). When I changed the brushes it was just barely groaning the engine over until the excess current draw due to bad brush...

Does sound like the starter is dragging, most likely worn brushes. Relatively easy to service and not very expensive either. Since it is still working (sort of) doubtful you will need to replace it, a new set of brushes, clean the commutator and lube the planetary gears should make that a happy unit...

You can do a voltage test on the stator with engine out of the bike. Normally would expect to see 50-70v AC between all three stator legs at 3000 RPM, but you should still see some sort of low voltage AC power out of the stator at cranking RPM. With the sparkplugs out or the heads still removed and ...

Delete / rewrite post---- This is what I get for not reading entire thread , I was going to suggest small pull-down resistors (1k or 470 ohm) but after posting this I see it was already tried unsuccessfully :( My "bad". Seems the brake "sense" input on the CC module is particularly picky, and the re...

GL1100 uses a standard two (or three) terminal automotive flasher rated for two bulbs. Wiring harness provides for a third ground connection to the flasher unit, three terminal flashers use the ground. The OEM flasher is only two terminal, but the three terminal ones can be used.

I recently upgraded the saddlebag and trunk side lights to LED, I bought a 17' reel of 300 lumen/ft Red LED strip. Nice and bright! Got about 6' of LED strip left over. Too bright for the rear of the bike, they'd look like brake lights on. If I do put them on the rear of the bike I'd have to build a...