With sidestand down things behave as expected, sidestand up is where things go abnormal. Sorry, I missed the C32 disconnected part.... So rules out the "Back Half" of the circuit. Sounds like you can reconnect C32. The ECM requires a ground at either the "sidestand up" or "neutral" pins or it won't ...

Look at first page of diagrams again, both the "neutral" line and the "Side stand up" lines go to reverse control module too, more lines to trace.

Historically 2/3 of my riding has been commuting to work. Since I'm working remote these days that mileage is gone. And no major trips this year, either. Still get out on the weekends for an afternoon ride though.

There's the regulator for the alternator/charging. Not that one. Then there's the 7v regulator for the instruments. Used in both the GL1000 and GL1100, parts fiche for the 1980 1100 shows part# 31410-463-008. Shame shipping/taxes so expensive, but you could ask WingAdmin about cost of shipping this ...

Yup - Both gauges are on that regulator. More evidence the regulator is bad and putting out 12 volts instead of 7. A test: Disconnect the fuel gauge lead from the sender and measure voltage from that lead to ground with key "on". Should be exactly 7 volts or a fuzz less. If significantly over 7 volt...

If all things are working right the fan should come on between a little over half scale but before 3/4 scale.

But if the 7volt regulator is going bad the temperature gauge could work it's way to full-scale hot when the engine is just starting to nicely get warmed up.

Funny thing is the bulb behaves normally if the side stand is down. With side stand up can start in gear without clutch. But not when it's down. So has to be a short where the "sidestand up" circuit is providing ground to the neutral circuit. But only when the side stand is up.

You might check the connections at the kill switch, I understand they are screw terminals with lugs on the wires and sometimes work loose. That could cause intermittent spark. The '93 will still crank with kill switch "off".

I'm looking at the GL1500 color diagram provided by Erdeniz Umman. It's on the site here somewhere. Per that diagram I'm referring to pins 8 and 10 of the 14 pin white connector on the reverse control unit.

OK - enough coffee, I got out the "Spaghetti Diagrams". We've established there's a short between the "sidestand up" circuit and the "neutral" circuit. Sidestand switch only provides ground to the sidestand light when it is down. When it is up, the only places the sidestand switch is supposed to pro...

Okay - The unwanted ground is thru the "Sidestand Up" circuit - That narrows it down some.

One more cuppa coffee and I'll dig into schematics.

Try this before you head out - Put bike in gear, side stand up, don't use the clutch, and bump the starter. Be prepared for it to jump forward, and maybe actually start and take off, but it might not. Report if the starter engages. It probably will. Try same with sidestand down. It probably won't. T...

If the neutral light is a tad brighter when actually in neutral that suggests the neutral switch is working correctly, but you have some other unwanted ground path in the circuit. On the older wings it was usually a bad diode. There's a diode pack in the 1500 that has some of the neutral light circu...

The tupperware piece over the timing belt covers (below radiator grilles) fell off last week, fortunately I was going slow down a city street and heard it skidding on the pavement and stopped immediately. Fortunately it was largely undamaged, broke the tabs off each corner that are supposed to catch...

Check charging voltage, you likely have a charging problem. A good battery that's been run-down will recover some charge on its own after some time if left unloaded....

My bet would be corroded battery connection or a bad ground on batt Neg lead.

With the linked brakes the idea is to prevent rear lockup. I don't think you are going to get the rear wheel to lock up unless the front is almost to lockup, too and if that were to happen it could be bad. I have had my rear tire skid just a little in a very hard stop. But that was with the fully lo...

My guess is Tamathumper is a drummer, and owns a Tama brand drum kit. I happen to be a Bass player. So between us you have the rhythm section of a good band.

Steinbergerplayer would be an awfully long handle for me to use....

... Please don't tell me you ride with all those keys on your key ring..... That will be the death of your ignition switch if you do...... I was thinking the same thing, except all the noise those keys would make and the damage to the dash they cause. My motorcycle keyring has just my motorcycle ke...

Cyclemax has a variety of emblems and badges, don't know if they have the one you are looking for though.

MaxTow Volts and Oil Pressure on Bluthundr31's Unobtainium 2.0

Have you checked the vacuum lines under the rubber mat? With the carbs off it would be a good time to do that. There's one with a manufactured 90 degree bend that's notorious for developing a leak right in the bend. This one usually results in idle RPM "hunting", but there's other lines down there, ...

GL1500's in good condition are running in the $2k for older high miles bike to $5k range for a super-pristine 2000 model. The market value is down somewhat this year. BlueBook Still lists my '93 at $5,500, but it wouldn't sell for that. Probably could get $3500, maybe $4000 if I held out for a buyer...

I measured the brushes this spring and they were still long enough. My experience with starters (not just Goldwings) is if a starter is dragging and not performing as expected, a NEW set of brushes does wonders regardless if the ones there are "long enough". Brushes are cheap. Today I hit the start...

That much pitting suggests brushes not making good contact, did you put new brushes in when you looked at it this spring? Are the little springy coils putting enough pressure on the brushes? Things to consider....