The 1975 - 1977 GL1000 motorcycles body parts were made of three materials. The false tank sides are made out of fiberglass. There are some obvious metal body parts and the side covers are ABS plastic. The tool tray is not ABS plastic but I am not sure the exact name of the plastic.

They look exactly like the originals except without the name on it. I think the same manufacturer may be making them but I am not sure. I have used a couple and they work fine.

I would buy one of the DS1-1 clones and a set of DC1-1 coil clones to go with it. With this combo you can get rid of the condensers and the ballast resistor. Look on eBay for these two part numbers and you will see them. You can get the DS1-3 for about $50.00 and the coils for about $22.00 each. I w...

That is actually a black wire with a white stripe and connects to the kill switch.

Yes, you have the right connections as shown in the picture. The condensers are not needed with the electronic ignition, so just unplug the wires and toss the condensers. The DS1-3 Electronic Ignition connects to the same bullet connectors that the points used. You get an added benefit of removing t...

CMHD1-1 is the same basic coil as the DC1-1 coils. The other link you sent looks like reproduction of original style coils so I suspect you might have to use a ballast resistor with those.

After trying what the others have suggested, remove the spark plugs and valve covers , then slowly attempt to manually rotate the crank with the kick starter while watching the valves. Be careful to stop if you receive any binding. If the tappets/valves don't move on both sides, you have a broken be...

You can replace the clutch parts without removing the engine. Get access to the clutch and remove the cover. Something is jammed and I think it might be one of the ball bearings in the cover. Remove that cover and take a look.

When you had points, did you ever replace the condensers? If one was bad, it might explain why you had to adjust the points so much. You removed these with the new Newtronic system, correct?

I looked that the diagram and understand what you are saying. You should have full power on that wire.

Maybe there is pressure on the clutch plate. Try moving the clutch lever (8) to see if it is stuck. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda ... -rear-case

Are you using the ballast resistor or do you have it bypassed? If you are using it, are you aware that it is bypassed when you press the start button? I am not certain where you are connecting power for the Newtronic unit, but I would check for voltage at the unit when you press the start button. If...

I am not familiar with the Newtronic unit but it may be very similar to the DS1-3. I just posted some tips and information that may help you. Take a look: viewtopic.php?p=392267#p392267

DS1-3 Electronic Ignition Installation DSCN4054.JPG OVERVIEW: When you install the DS1-3, you will be able to remove the points and the condensers. Your GL1000 will run better and you will not have to constantly adjust points. If you go a step further and replace the outdated original coils, you wil...

I believe the original put out about 2.4 psi and about 14 gph. You don't want too much pressure on the float valves so I would stay under 3 psi.

Any of these would work fine, but I would probably select the 40367 or 40352. K&N 810400 fuel pump 1 - 2 psi and 15 gph Facet-Purolator POSI-FLO - 60210 1 - 2.5 psi and 25 gph Facet-Purolator Cube 40367 or 40352 1 - 2 psi and 15 gph Facet-Purolator Cube 40163 1.5 - 2.5 psi and 17 gph Here is an ...

You can eliminate the reserve lighting unit easily. Some have also removed the diodes and the resistor too with some minor changes. These diodes are part of the the reserve lighting unit high/low beam and the neutral light circuits. You can find the instructions to remove the RLU in the Chilton's ma...

Do yourself a favor and buy a Dyna S electronic ignition. Also, consider replacing the coils with Dyna coils so you can eliminate the ballast resistor. You will find your bike will start better, run better and you won't have to mess with points anymore.

I respectfully disagree with the person that suggested not using any "mechanical" cleaning on the jets. You need to use carb cleaning wires and go through the jet and emulsion tube holes. The ultrasonic cleaning is good advice, but it will not get the holes perfectly clean. The only way to...

I just bought this APlusLift air lift and love it: https://www.apluslift.com/products/apluslift-motorcycle-lift-mt1500 This company makes lifts for other companies but you can save money if you buy it from them directly. It looks similar to the one you are considering. I was also impressed with the ...

The best way to get a naked GL1000 on the center stand is to grab the grab bar with your right hand. The left hand goes on the handlebar and right foot on the center stand. You must lift the bike with your hands; pulling hard and straight up while pressing straight down on the center stand as hard a...

The front and back spokes for the 1976-1977 CB750A are the same as the GL1000. This place and others sells them:

https://www.vintagecb750.com/search/?q=spokes

You have a set of 1975 GL1000 755A carbs and they don't have accelerator pumps. The two likely sources of the leak are the float valves or the plenum fuel seals.

It is normal for oil to enter the tach drive housing and there is no seal on that end of the camshaft.

The clutch cable goes inboard. I have used several brands including Motion Pro and they fit. Be sure and specify the LTD model because they are longer than the standard models.