Since it ran before, don't go drilling anything. There are a few variations of carbs, and many manuals (including Honda's) lump more than one together and use stock photos. Did you ultrasonic the carbs? That is about the only way to get them cleaned if the have been "left to rot" as you sa...

It's not the mileage, it's the age. If you don't know when they were last changed, change them. The belts will not effect how it runs until one breaks and that often destroys the engine. This is an interference engine so the valves will crash into the pistons if a belt gives up.

I was just speaking in general when you mentioned that you had to loosen the axle to get the shock bolt in. The caliper does need to slide back and forth on that bushing. Typically you remove, clean, and lube those when working on the brakes. Brake dust and road grime, and corrosion tend to lock up ...

Not really.
But it is something you can easily test for volume and pressure.
The carbs should be full of fuel at startup so it would start even without a fuel pump, it just wouldn't run all that long.

There is a post here somewhere about aftermarket universal sensors. As I recall the main issue was the 90 air fitting.

It seems like your problems can probably addressed by basic procedures. Never tighten anything until all the fasteners are installed loosely. Then go back and torque fasteners, in order if specified. And yes the bushing should be cleaned and lubed and the rubber boots replaced if torn or hard. Do yo...

Remove the chrome, replace with the finish of your choice. Muriatic will take off the chrome, but it won't do the layers under it. To strip everything your best bet is to take it to a plating shop where they have the right chemicals. If you want paint, or powder coating you could just sandblast it, ...

Two things come to mind right off. Clogged/bad enrichment circuit in the carbs, no accelerator pump, if equipped.
It would help to say what bike you have, too.

It will just hang from the upper shock mount.

Yes, the bolt is a close fit to the shock bushing.
Look in the hole to see what is misaligned. You may have to slightly jack up the wheel to get things to line up.
Did you dump all the air from your airshock?

If it was correct, you would have brakes.
Take the pads out and with the caliper bolted tight, make sure you can slide it back and forth along the pins with your hands.

You may well have to rebuild the carbs. Not sure how your fuel ages and if it leaves behind all the gunk when it dries out. Depending on history it might also be time to change the timing belts. If they are past due, I would do that first before spinning the starter, as sitting in one place for a lo...

All the current you want to measure needs to flow through the current shunt. Sometimes these are integral to the meter, but they can be remote so that makes the wiring easier. Typically in automotive setups all the loads and the alternator are on one side of the meter and the battery is on the other...

Sounds like you have something wrong with the pin bolts and sleeve. The caliper needs to float, it won't do that if the bolts are wrong. If it worked before, you obviously did not get it back together like it was before. Check the diagram and make sure. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorc...

I've run into the same thing with more than a few items. One option that will push back your search at least for now, is to snag a set or two of NOS ones on ebay. FWIW gloves and helmets are something I always have to go try, even with the same size from the same manufacturer. Just too much variatio...

LaclaMoe wrote: ↑Tue May 17, 2022 2:23 am Well i thank you both. Funny, her 1st ride today and we put both full face helmets in the trunk at lunch. Best part is gf really likes the ride. Just like everyone claimed.

That was the primary reason I went with a 1500 over the 1800. No problem with two helmets in the trunk and smooth ride.

Nope, there is no fuel above the diaphragm just vacuum. Fuel is drawn up through the jet that needle passes through. My guess is you are seeing fuel climb the needle. You can check the diaphragm for tears, and look around for other vacuum leaks. Lots of idle surge issues on 1500s. Many things can ca...

You can even get GoldWing versions.

If you look at most of the testing done with K&N, they are not an ideal filter for a high miler like the GoldWing.
While they flow more air than pleated paper filters, they do this at the cost of fine particle filtration. While great on race engines, I would not put them on a daily driver.

4given wrote: ↑Mon May 16, 2022 7:01 am I agree, and it looks like “eyeball” tolerance. This doesn’t look like an aftermarket option.

That's what it looks like to me, too. And someone's "eyecrometer" could use calibration.

Look inside the petrol door.

Maybe put it out in the sun or use a heatgun to help soften things up.

The sidestand switch switches ground, so no power there. The light is powered by fuse 11, relay 3, and fuse 8.
Do you have the wiring diagram? If not, there are good ones on this site.

From the photo it looks like someone just soldered or brazed the head of a Philips screw on them. So redo the solder or braze job.

It has a battery ignition not a magneto, so you do need some power to kickstart it, but nowhere near what the electric start requires.