I've seen plenty of factory car manuals with generic stock photos for some sections.

Ok now that I read the instructions I understand how this handle works. I have a different kind of handle so I wasn't clear on what you were after. I don't see any problem in drilling out the screw bosses and using nuts and bolts in the interim. I did something much like that when I removed the trun...

Have you pulled the driveshaft? Maybe the front U-joint gave up, or the spline joint to the trans?
You did look at the final drive to wheel splines? Quite a few of those have failed if not maintained.
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Have a look around here for the maintenance items to look after. Quite the step up from a 150cc scooter. At least you are used to plastic covers on bikes.

What happens in the rest of the gears?

Pictures might help. Also a link to the handle.

Copypasta syndrome.

You can bleed the brakes without removing the saddlebag, but I strongly advise against it. It's not much trouble to remove the bag, and if you get brake fluid on the ABS it makes it disintegrate later on. Being able to see is essential to clean, lube and inspect, too.

I was just going to mention the dental floss technique...

Typically the stock 1500 gas gauge doesn't read below about a quarter tank. You will see info on bending the float to make this better.

Could also be a faulty bank angle sensor. Try jumpering it and see if it solves the problem. If so, then replace the bank angle sensor. If it was the BAS it wouldn't crank. When the BAS start to fail, they will trigger a quick, transient "hey I've fallen over" signal, usually when you hit...

The fuel pump doesn't run until you engage the starter and the ECU sees pulses from the ignition. It doesn't have a relay and is driven directly by the ECU. The black gizmo is a noise filter for bikes with a CB. Yes, you can test the pump by running power directly to it. You might want to do that wi...

WingAdmin wrote: ↑Tue May 24, 2022 4:04 pm Could also be a faulty bank angle sensor. Try jumpering it and see if it solves the problem. If so, then replace the bank angle sensor.

If it was the BAS it wouldn't crank.

That does sound like a fuel issue. You just need to figure out if it is a pumping problem or an electric problem. The gauge and light will let you know what is going on. Maybe do some local laps so you ride a longer time but a shorter distance, just in case.

Not preventing gas from entering the engine, too much gas may have entered. Pull the spark plugs out, then try to spin it over. CAUTION fuel may spray out of the spark plug holes. If fuel comes out you have a float level problem, sticking or not adjusted properly. They can be a little tricky to get ...

Could be too many wheels.

Sure, replace the broken plastic gear in the speedometer. (Sometimes they just need cleaning)
Finding one might be the problem. Speedometer shops are pretty scarce these days.

If after sitting it starts right up, it is probably not your fuel pump. If the carbs were run dry from a bad pump, you would have to crank it for a bit to get the carbs to fill back up. If you do have to crank it a bunch you are probably on the right track looking at the fuel system. You can always ...

Since it ran before, don't go drilling anything. There are a few variations of carbs, and many manuals (including Honda's) lump more than one together and use stock photos. Did you ultrasonic the carbs? That is about the only way to get them cleaned if the have been "left to rot" as you sa...

It's not the mileage, it's the age. If you don't know when they were last changed, change them. The belts will not effect how it runs until one breaks and that often destroys the engine. This is an interference engine so the valves will crash into the pistons if a belt gives up.

I was just speaking in general when you mentioned that you had to loosen the axle to get the shock bolt in. The caliper does need to slide back and forth on that bushing. Typically you remove, clean, and lube those when working on the brakes. Brake dust and road grime, and corrosion tend to lock up ...

Not really.
But it is something you can easily test for volume and pressure.
The carbs should be full of fuel at startup so it would start even without a fuel pump, it just wouldn't run all that long.

There is a post here somewhere about aftermarket universal sensors. As I recall the main issue was the 90 air fitting.

It seems like your problems can probably addressed by basic procedures. Never tighten anything until all the fasteners are installed loosely. Then go back and torque fasteners, in order if specified. And yes the bushing should be cleaned and lubed and the rubber boots replaced if torn or hard. Do yo...

Remove the chrome, replace with the finish of your choice. Muriatic will take off the chrome, but it won't do the layers under it. To strip everything your best bet is to take it to a plating shop where they have the right chemicals. If you want paint, or powder coating you could just sandblast it, ...

Two things come to mind right off. Clogged/bad enrichment circuit in the carbs, no accelerator pump, if equipped.
It would help to say what bike you have, too.