re : rusty gas tank ... i recently had a beat-up little suzuki 2 stroke with a gas tank that was pretty ugly inside. i had watched a few youtube videos on cleaning gas tanks using electrolysis and i had little to lose so i gave it a try ... i was gob-smacked at how well it worked ! you might want to...

throttle cable routing and lubrication are both critical. cannot comment re : modification.
to test a horn simply apply 12v+ and ground to the 2 terminals. if the horn works then i would proceed to clean the horn button contacts.

are you using a honda solenoid or one of those cheap chinese ones off ebay ? my memory is bad, but i am pretty sure that i read somewhere that the cheapies have the terminals in the wrong locations.

everytime i have had turn signals acting "funny", whether on bikes, trailers or truck, it has been a weak ground.
continuity to ground doesn't necessarily mean GOOD ground.

it's manageable, especially if you are just going after the accelerator pump and nothing else. take pictures, write notes to yourself, stay ORGANIZED and CLEAN. read, ask questions here and you'll get through it. harbor freight tools with do just fine but ... do yourself a favour and order a JIS scr...

after further thought , i believe that is a dust seal only, and that your problem may be a ruptured or otherwise deteriorated accelerator pump diaphragm. the diaphragm, spring, dust boot and seal are available as a kit. at any rate, the carbs will have to be removed/disassembled/inspected/assessed/r...

p.s. ... synching carbs only serves to smooth out the idle, so it's not necessarily required after carb work if you are happy with the idle.

that is the accelerator pump. the (deteriorated) rubber accordion-looking thingy that you are talking about serves to keep gas from coming out and dust from going in. luckily, it is still available from partzilla, et al as part of a gasket set. i do not know whether it is available from other seller...

perfectly normal for the oil pressure light to come on when an engine stalls. since the engine is not cranking i would move over to the battery; check all connection and cables to the battery and starter for cleanliness, physical condition and tightness. the battery should be load tested ... a readi...

dingdong wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 23, 2020 5:52 pm

There is no need to get down on your knees to look at the site glass. I use my phone to take a picture of it.

by far the simplest solution.

once you get your oil level squared away via the nonsensical sight glass, you can either adapt the filler cap as per your original post or make a dipstick that you leave on your keychain or in your toolbox. after a few sessions down on your hands and knees the sight glass isn't nearly as much fun as...

definitely some oil-fouling on 1 and 2. 3 and 4 aren't too pretty either.
i would check compression, put some miles on the bike, then check compression again.

white smoke is coolant burning. smoke with a faint blue tinge is oil burning. worn valve seals will cause blue smoke, mostly at start-up. a vehicle that has been sitting a long time often develops hardened valve seals which will allow oil to seep past into the combustion chamber. in my experience so...

the market may be different where you are, but for a non-running "old mans bike" in the middle of a great lakes winter, $1800 sounds wildly optimistic.

while you are in there, put a q-tip in your drill, dip it in valve lapping compound, hand cleaner that contains pumice, toothpaste or carb cleaner and give that brass float needle seat a nice cleaning. rinse off any residue and it will be bright, shiny brass.

carb synching only smooths out the idle. can't cause fuel leakage.
most likely cause is inlet needle not seating.

COMPLETELY forgot about the "straw". things are making more sense now; thanks.

i forget which is main fuel feed and which is accelerator pump, but you get the idea ...

yes, but it seems to me that if they weren't there, there would be fuel spilling all over the place.
you didn't specifically say, so i have to ask ... did you look/spray/blow through the crossover tube to ensure that it is clear ?

yes, try to figure out where it is coming from. if it's from the overflow, then sometimes a few quick raps on the float bowl(s) with the handle of a screwdriver can help the float needle(s) get seated.

all 3 of my gl1100s seemed to kick in when the gauge was at almost exactly halfway. try running it in your driveway until it kicks in. if the gauge creeps up significantly beyond the halfway mark and the fan still hasn't kicked in, disconnect the fan connector and apply 12v and ground directly to it...

what he said ... plenty of people (myself included) ended up with an awesome engine after getting ugly compression numbers at first.

dry or with a thin film of silicone, your choice. as stated, it's crucial to have clean, smooth mating surfaces.

my 1980 - 1983 factory service manual says it's on the backside of the gauges, but i read on another goldwing site that some (1982) have it mounted below and behind the steering weight, and by all accounts it's a beast to get at. hope this helps somehow.