thats them. you should be able to pick them out with a small screwdriver, or just leave them in and re-use ( risking a small exhaust leak, but it worked for me the first time around), or just put new ones in over top of them.

bad news/good news ... the bad news is that those jets are pressed in; the good news is that they CAN be removed. i have had some success with turning a drywall screw into them so that it has a good bite and then pry out using a suitable pry point and gripping the screw under its head with side cutt...

manufacturerers haven't given out actual compression values for years, but your numbers are excellent ...no worries there.

you say that you have cleaned the carbs but i have to ask ... did you remove the idle jets and ensure that the extremely tiny passages in them are clear ?

running only on choke is a pretty good indication that the idle circuits are plugged.
what's the history of this bike ... did the problem arise out of nowhere or is this a bike that has been sitting for a long time ?

roughest ? looks pretty decent from here, but i know that the pics do hide a lot.
anyhow, looks like a very worthwhile project; good luck with it.

in the partzilla diagram, under the "crankshaft" section it's part 13 ... honda part number 91201 371 005 front crankshaft seal.
sounds like you have a leaking valve cover gasket (not a big deal), a head gasket issue as well , and who knows what else.

since you arent getting any help i will chime in with what little i know ... yes, you are probably barking up the wrong tree, but if you want to confirm spark, just remove a spark plug lead, place an old plug in it (if you dont have a spare plug then use the existing one) lay it against a good groun...

from the sound of it, your engine is telling you that it is getting too much fuel. so i would focus on float height and the fuel inlet needle and seat. since you have already taken them apart for a rebuild it should be easier the 2nd time around. don't worry about carb syncing just yet ... that is t...

the exhaust gaskets between the header pipes and the mufflers are about $26 for the pair plus shipping. far less money, fairly easy install, and far more effective than the trendy and, IMHO, useless exhaust wrap.
if you have actual perforations somewhere, that's a whole nother story.

horn, turn signals (and brake light) are all on the same (15amp) fuse, so that would be a good place to start.

speedometer is totally mechanical so remove the drive cable and check to see if it's still in one piece ... if it's even still there ... previous owners are a funny lot.

yes, tell us more about the digisync.
also, now that you have been converted to doing your own work, do yourself a favour and buy a couple of JIS screwdrivers; no more stripping the heads of "phillips" screws.

have you looked after the basics ? ... remove spark plugs ... check for spark, check condition and gap. remove and inspect air filter. loosen float bowl drain screws and check for the presence of fuel in each bowl. if you have spark , air and fuel then it's time to move on to compression.

i was lucky, i dropped mine during a low-speed u-turn with nobody looking. squeezed the front brake and down she went. at 65 i am no spring chicken either but it's amazing how quick and agile we become when 750 lbs is toppling over. luckily, i had just watched a video the day before on how to pick u...

try giving the float bowls a few quick, firm raps with the plastic handle of a screwdriver. don't crack them, but let them know you are there. i could take quite a few raps, but don't hit too hard.
if you are lucky they will seat themselves better. also, turn petcock off when not riding.

i removed this from one of my wings a while back. i hung onto it for reference in case i wanted to buy a generic one from a parts store. after reading this i decided to cut it open. the glue had clearly let go, and it was rattling around in there providing NO filtering at all. to be fair, i have no ...

i would ...
a) check compression
b) switch spark plugs and wires around trying to make the issue move to another cylinder

this would be a good time to check compression.

p.s. your bike is taking forever to warm up. for a short hop, i could easily be at my destination before the fan kicked in. the coolant temperature sensor should be checked for resistance.

since you haven't received any help with this, i'll jump in with what little i know. the only thing vacuum related that i can think of is the cv sliders (technically, not true, as the jets operate on vacuum, but they wouldn't 'stick'). they could be sticking in the "up" position when you give it som...

mine was letting out a large puff of blue from the RIGHT side after sitting on the side stand overnight; not sure if your issue is the same, but valve seals have a tendency to harden on bikes that have been sitting for years, and i have found that they often soften up and work much better with some ...

for that, you could apply power and ground directly to the fan at it's connector. if the fan runs, then you can start moving upstream in the circuit.

i was never that good at actually making money, but i have always been exceptional at managing what money i did make ... to me this is an absolute no-brainer. work at your new, good-paying job, drive the car that you currently have, SAVE money until you can afford to pay cash in full for a good runn...

i was wondering what that screw was for. played with it a bit and got one of the horns to make a sound like a sick canada goose. these horns are dead.

well ... the question is more of a ponder now, as i found a FIAMM horn in my hoard which, by itself, is more than equal to 2 stock gl1100 horns.

3 gl1100's ... 6 horns total ... 2 of them dead ... 1 of the dead ones is dented.

of course i could just spread the wealth and have 1 with 2 good horns, and the others with 1 good horn each, or go to ebay and spend some money ... but we are here to fix things, yes ?

any way to fix these things ?