New video on common electrical problems

[WingAdmin]

A new video: The two most common electrical failures that happen to Goldwings. Prepare now so you don't get stranded!



   Never miss a video: Subscribe to the GoldwingDocs YouTube channel today!

[Andy Cote]

Great information! Thank you.

[schai]

Just a suggestion - You might add in your How-To electrical videos the suggestion to put DIELECTRIC GREASE on every electrical connection, plug, screw head, flat blade, etc. It will really reduce the incidence of resistance buildup in later years. A little squeeze tube is easy to store and will have enough to last for years. Note: There is a common misunderstanding that dielectric grease is conductive. It is not. It forms an anti-corrosion barrier around the metal surfaces and gets squeezed away from the bits of surface that actually touch. Think microscopic roughness here. The peaks touch and the valleys hold protective grease, not moisture.

[GBKid]

You recommended “not” using a 30 amp Buss Fuse to replace the master dog bone fuse on a GL1500, but that amperage was fine for the GL1100 and GL1200. However, you did not indicate what amperage to use on the GL1500. What is the correct Buss Fuse amperage for a GL1500?

[troussos]

Thanks for the tips, Scott.

As a possible alternative to the BUSS fuse, consider a resettable circuit breaker.

A resettable circuit breaker would come in real handy if another problem arises or if there is a compound problem and you've depleted your supply of BUSS fuses on your trip troubleshooting and you're too far from a source of more fuses. A 12vdc resettable 30A or 50A breaker would help provide additional chance to locate and mitigate the electrical problem without running out of fuses as I did when a fusible link blew under the hood on my Dodge Spirit on a trip to Toronto. A resettable circuit breaker allowed me to locate a metal spur piercing the main buss bundle on the metal frame of the fuse block!

Just a thought.

[WingAdmin]

Thanks for the tips, Scott.

As a possible alternative to the BUSS fuse, consider a resettable circuit breaker.

A resettable circuit breaker would come in real handy if another problem arises or if there is a compound problem and you've depleted your supply of BUSS fuses on your trip troubleshooting and you're too far from a source of more fuses. A 12vdc resettable 30A or 50A breaker would help provide additional chance to locate and mitigate the electrical problem without running out of fuses as I did when a fusible link blew under the hood on my Dodge Spirit on a trip to Toronto. A resettable circuit breaker allowed me to locate a metal spur piercing the main buss bundle on the metal frame of the fuse block!

Just a thought.

Absolutely! I've actually used this exact breaker for this exact purpose before, and it works perfectly:

https://www.amazon.com/Beneges-Circuit- ... r_1_2_sspa

That breaker (or ones like it) are available in sizes of up to 150 amps.

[WingAdmin]

You recommended “not” using a 30 amp Buss Fuse to replace the master dog bone fuse on a GL1500, but that amperage was fine for the GL1100 and GL1200. However, you did not indicate what amperage to use on the GL1500. What is the correct Buss Fuse amperage for a GL1500?

The answer is....it depends.

The master fuse (main fuse B, shown in the video) in the GL1500 from the factory is 55 amps. However, very many GL1500's have aftermarket alternators installed, and those alternators can put out far more than 55 amps. Pretty mcuh all aftermarket alternators put out more that 55 amps, and Honda OEM alternators are extremely expensive - so as the factory alternators die, most get replaced with aftermarket alternators. The Compufire alternator in my bike is capable of producing 90 amps! In this case, I'd suggest going with the fuse size specified by the alternator manufacturer - or, failing that, one rated for the maximum output of the alternator. Another option, for me with the 90 amp Compufire, would be a resettable circuit breaker like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Lumision-Waterpr ... ref=sr_1_3

I should note: the blade fuse socket holder I show in the video is only a 30 amp holder with 10 gauge wire, as that's what I had on hand to show. For this application you should use an 8 gauge fuse socket, as shown in the link in the description. That is capable of handling more than 70 amps.

[GBKid]

Thanks WingAdmin! Great information. I really look forward to your monthly newsletters and appreciate the site. Have a great riding season!

[troussos]

Woah hold on there… though shalt not exceed the current carrying capability of the wire!

[dougm]

Amen!!! the fuse is to protect the wires not the alternator!

[Wildwilly018]

Never thought about having something on board for a back up. Never had an issue with the main fuses and I do have the spares in my holder. But it is a great idea. So you recommend at least 8 gauge wire. Are there buss fuse or what I call inline fuse holder that can carry a fuse 55 amp or larger.

[DenverWinger]

I'm running a Hitachi 90 amp alternator and AGM battery. We all understand that when the bike first starts the battery can request a brief surge of high current from the alternator to quickly replenish the current used during cranking, but I have no evidence this ever exceeds the 55 amp capacity of the factory dogbone. And it isn't "Doubled". Never had to replace it..... Just sayin....

[troussos]

Question:

Has anyone measured the current draw of an OEM GL1500 starter under load while cranking?