Tire separation


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Pam
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Tire separation

Post by Pam »



First ride if the season as life has been in the way. Fluids all good every thing looks tight. Plugs cleaned and gapped. Tire pressure and tread depth good. Meet up with the riding crew and we're off. About 80 miles into the day we were making our way through a Park and slowed down for a Sow bear with cubs in the ditch. I felt a vibration in the rear tire. Carried on past several more bears (7) and pulled over. Up on the center stand and sure enough tire separation. Second summer for the tire, which is a Shinko. Limped home and now tire shopping begins.

Any recommendations?


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Re: Tire separation

Post by MikeB »

Pam wrote: Sun May 16, 2021 6:59 pm First ride if the season as life has been in the way. Fluids all good every thing looks tight. Plugs cleaned and gapped. Tire pressure and tread depth good. Meet up with the riding crew and we're off. About 80 miles into the day we were making our way through a Park and slowed down for a Sow bear with cubs in the ditch. I felt a vibration in the rear tire. Carried on past several more bears (7) and pulled over. Up on the center stand and sure enough tire separation. Second summer for the tire, which is a Shinko. Limped home and now tire shopping begins.

Any recommendations?
Sure, anything except Shinko. Metzler is a close second of non-recommended tires. Avon, Dunlop, Bridgestone all come to mind as good possibilities.
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Re: Tire separation

Post by minimac »

Shinko tires are cheaper to buy. Now you know why. I realize that not everyone has an issue with them, but it happens way too often.
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Re: Tire separation

Post by Pam »

I have had shinko's on other bikes with no issues. I guess they don't like the weight. Looking at Dunlop
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Re: Tire separation

Post by thebruce »

Threw an elite4 on my 1500 last year and I have no complaints. It's wearing well, no funny handling, and holds air.

Not the cheapest tire out there, but hasn't shredded yet either.

Tires aren't a good place to try to save money, in my limited experience.
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Re: Tire separation

Post by Solo So Long »

Shinko makes great tires for smaller bikes, but didn't do the engineering necessary for half a ton of bike and rider.

Likewise Metzeler. I consider a 600-lb bike to be the upper limit for them.

I wish that they made the Commander III for the GL1500, but everyone I hear with Dunlop E3 or E4 is satisfied with them.
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Re: Tire separation

Post by kwthom »

This is for the Goldwing (you have several bikes listed...) correct?

Ever thought about the Darkside?

:shock:

:lol:

For quite a few of us, having an incident like that is what makes us consider alternatives.

Standard moto tires? Bridgestone. 7000 to 9000 miles later, you'll be doing it again.
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Re: Tire separation

Post by Solo So Long »

. . .and, to give some perspective about Darksiding, your whole life depends on a few square inches of friction, so think seriously about the differences in construction, engineering and compounds used in tires designed for cars v. tires designed for motorcycles.

I chose to stay with bike tires. If I spend $450 for tires that last 9000 miles, that's a nickel a mile for tires designed specifically for the kind of forces that a big motorcycle puts on them.

People I know and respect got a cookie, and are just as happy spending a penny a mile for tires that behave well on a Wing.

Look at all the factors, not just the one that you're dealing with now.
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Re: Tire separation

Post by Pam »

I have considered the dark side and know a few who have gone that way. I have come to the conclusion that I will be sticking with a bike ride. You don't put a farm implement tire designed to carry heavy weight at a max speed of 35 mph on your car. The engineering just isn't there.
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Re: Tire separation

Post by dtrider »

I have a set of Dunlop Elite 4s with just shy of 13K miles on them. I probably should have replace them at 12K, but I thought I could get one more trip out of them. Turns out that I did, but I really shouldn't have. Put in more miles than I had intended on that trip, with most of them being on twisty mountain roads.


/dwight
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Re: Tire separation

Post by Sassy »

Guys from the pariries where Im from dream of wearing out a tire that way! Lol
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Re: Tire separation

Post by Big Bob »

I am replacing my E4S next Monday with another set of E4S. They currently have over 14k on them, the front is almost 5 years old, the rear is about 4.5 years old. Tires are starting to make a little noise, cracking on the front, and just wore out. I wasn't to good on the tire pressure on the first half of their life, I will attempt to do better this time. Circles on tires are wear indicators showing, lines are dry rot cracks.

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Re: Tire separation

Post by autonoob »

dtrider wrote: Wed Jun 02, 2021 5:27 pm I have a set of Dunlop Elite 4s with just shy of 13K miles on them. I probably should have replace them at 12K, but I thought I could get one more trip out of them. Turns out that I did, but I really shouldn't have. Put in more miles than I had intended on that trip, with most of them being on twisty mountain roads.
PXL_20210602_221018101.jpg
/dwight
The tread on this tire is worn out, you badly need to replace it. It's not safe to drive a motorbike with worn-out tires.
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Re: Tire separation

Post by dtrider »

autonoob wrote: Wed Jun 02, 2021 10:02 pm The tread on this tire is worn out, you badly need to replace it. It's not safe to drive a motorbike with worn-out tires.
Really? Gee thanks. I hadn't figured that out, even though I said I should have replaced them at 12K.
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Re: Tire separation

Post by Pam »

Finally got a tire. Couldn't get anything Dunlop. Had to go with a Michelin commander 3. Only a couple hundred km on it so far but time will tell
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Re: Tire separation

Post by tamathumper »

I don't recommend it, but I wore my rear Dunlop E4 down so far the sipes were completely gone on both shoulders, and it was still sticking to the road in the twisties. It seemed to wear very fast at the end and took me a bit by surprise how far down it got.
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Re: Tire separation

Post by minimac »

It's not just E4s, all tires wear very quickly the thinner they get. The last quarter of thread depth seems to go really fast. Be aware and check them often at that point.
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Re: Tire separation

Post by seelyark1 »

There seem to be a lot of riders that want to downplay Dark siding, as they don't fit the rims and this and that. But I have yet to hear any real stories about them having a real problem. Where can I find these horror stories? :o I have thousands of miles on car tires and have had no problems, and get way better mileage on a car tire than a motorcycle tire. And run flats are another plus also.
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Re: Tire separation

Post by dtrider »

I've thought many times about going Dark side. Might be a topic for another thread, but my problem though is that I don't have the tools / experience to mount tires myself, and nobody around here will touch them.
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Re: Tire separation

Post by Solo So Long »

Harbor Freight has a decent changer, under $100 with the motorcycle adapter.

No way to learn except for giving it a try.
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Re: Tire separation

Post by Rambozo »

Look at this method that uses just straps and tire spoons. Motion Pro have some that can also do the bead breaking.

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=43239
Solo So Long
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Re: Tire separation

Post by Solo So Long »

Rambozo wrote: Thu Jul 01, 2021 1:44 pm Look at this method that uses just straps and tire spoons. Motion Pro have some that can also do the bead breaking.
. . .and cost about what the whole HF tire changer (and motorcycle adapter) cost . . .

The irons are okay, if you don't have anywhere to use the machine, but they are really a "Plan C" kind of thing, between a pro-level tire machine (Plan A) or a budget machine like HF (Plan B).

There's a world of difference between the effort needed to change a big tubeless tire for a Goldwing and a tube-type dirt-bike tire, which is what those irons are intended for. A changing machine, even a cheap one, is really the way to go -- the leverage really helps.
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Re: Tire separation

Post by Sassy »

Guys I just did a darkside install on my '89.
I have an old manual tire changer that i used to break the bead but Ive used a bumper jack on the front of my car. 2 decent tire spoons and a big old screw driver. Make sure the tire is in the drop center when starting to spoon it and away ya go.
It isn't that hard and everybody has a bit of the language necessary to get er done!
Fred


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