Wes's GL1100 Alternator or Poor Boy Conversion
- Wilcoy02
- Posts: 1212
- Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 11:37 pm
- Location: Marengo, Ohio
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 I purchased 3/16
1983 GL1100I frame with an 80 engine. poor boy installed with C-5 ignition--DIED in Grande Prairie Alberta Canada 8/15
98 valkyrie sold 8/16
Wes's GL1100 Alternator or Poor Boy Conversion
This is the second alternator that I have put on a GL1100.
I feel it is one of the best things I have done to the 1100.
Since I had installed one alternator I found some little things to make it a bit better.
This project has none of my ideas. I scoured the internet and used the best of what I found on different threads on the poor boy conversion. There are a lot of people who have given their ideas to make this conversion doable.
The first thing I did was to put all the new parts out.
The 4 inch steel pulley
Alternator 14684N. I had to cut the one leg off it.
8 Ft of #8 gauge wire.
40 Amp self resetting fuse.
Alternator Plug.
Plastic dip used to keep the H2o out of the self resetting fuse: 4 inch steel pulley. I had a local machinist make this.
That is all the New parts to start my conversion.
The first thing to do is take the seat, left crash bar, false tank, and radiator off the bike.
I made The lower alternator bracket out of some stock metal I had laying around. Lower brkt bolted by the engine bolt.
This shows the radiator removed and how far I bent the horn mounts out of the way.
The center of the bolt marked for the pulley.
The hole saw used for the hole in the timing belt covers.
Make sure the gasket is removed before drilling.
The hole for the pulley.
8 Ga wire with 40 Amp self resetting fuse before I Plastic dip it.
Routing of 8 ga wire from battery to alternator.
Lower brkt for alternator with bolt welded in place. I did not care for the first brkt.
Lower brkt. I took the heat shield off the bike. Using the vertical brace as a template for holes.
Heat shield removed.
Alternator with the third leg sawed off.
The bolt welded on was too short. I made the third lower bracket
so it would cover some of the cutting of the heat shield. ( ANY of these brackets will work.)
These are the lower fairing bracket. These have been cut and will be reversed
When installed.
This is a plate to move the cover bolt over 1 inch so it will miss the pulley.
Tap the left hole so a bolt will fit.
I used the cover bolt and cut it off.
This plate is installed permanently to move the cover bolt over one inch.
Bolt fits in cover.
This is how it fits. I did not cover the old hole.
Cutting of the heat shield is a hit and miss. Cut it so the alternator misses the shield. I cut too much and that is why my lower bracket was made bigger
to cover some of my over cutting.
Lower alternator bracket installed.
Looking at the heat shield cutting and lower bracket in place.
7/8 inch Hanger ring. Can be found at Lowe's or any big box DIY store.
You can see the hanger installed on the right.
Hanger in place.
The spacer for the bottom of the alternator.
I used electrical conduit.
The hanger is used for the belt tensioner.
I used thread all and nuts doubled to keep it from moving.
I did not try to make an arc as the alternator has very little room.
My previous alternator never needed altered after first install.
View of belt tensioner.
Not much clearance.
Very little room.
Pulley, Stock washer with hole enlarged, and 60mm bolt. Pulley installed. I used BLUE locktite on the bolt. Belt I used from NAPA Belt installed. Tighten the belt to snug.
Clamp a straight edge on the pulley.
Straight edge shows I am perfectly aligned from pulley to alt. If not aligned put some spacers
on the bottom of the alt.
Radiator as it comes off the bike.
Shroud cut off by rad filler tube. I cut too much off the right side. rad filler tube. Both legs welded and extended. Blades hacked. New position for fan.
1 inch spacer for lower radiator.
Rad in place using the spacer. Do not forget to put the lower fairing brkt on. This pic I forgot to put the bottom radiator on.
1 inch chevy truck spacer and gaskets.
Spacer installed.
Lower hose attached.
To put the top rad hose on. I took the alt back off. Put the hose on, AND
DO NOT FORGET TO PLUG THE FAN WIRE BACK TOGETHER.
Install the alt again. Rad installed. Unplug the regulator plug. This disconnects the stater. Leave in place
for a back up in case something goes wrong with the alt.
I used the black wire in this plug to connect my
exciter wire for the alt. This plug is keyed to the ignition key. Alternator and belt in place. 8 Ga wire with fuse going to the battery. Time to do the wiring from the alternator.
The alternator connections.
The "s" wire I can plug into the black wire of the regulator/rec. Correct? Yes
The "ig" wire needs to be switched. Where can I attach this wire? Run it to the fuse box.
"b" goes directly to the battery W/ a fuse.
"L" goes to the idiot light and I will not use.
Fill your radiator with the correct coolant.
Finished the alternator conversion.
No plastic had to be cut.
Now one can add any number of lights, Heated clothing, Gloves with out reaching the max amps.
I am installing a second fuse box. I will be adding any new lights etc.. to this new fuse box.
I think it will be better than using the 30+year old wires to put this new current to use.
Hope you learned something here. If you do this conversion--Let us know.
I feel it is one of the best things I have done to the 1100.
Since I had installed one alternator I found some little things to make it a bit better.
This project has none of my ideas. I scoured the internet and used the best of what I found on different threads on the poor boy conversion. There are a lot of people who have given their ideas to make this conversion doable.
The first thing I did was to put all the new parts out.
The 4 inch steel pulley
Alternator 14684N. I had to cut the one leg off it.
8 Ft of #8 gauge wire.
40 Amp self resetting fuse.
Alternator Plug.
Plastic dip used to keep the H2o out of the self resetting fuse: 4 inch steel pulley. I had a local machinist make this.
That is all the New parts to start my conversion.
The first thing to do is take the seat, left crash bar, false tank, and radiator off the bike.
I made The lower alternator bracket out of some stock metal I had laying around. Lower brkt bolted by the engine bolt.
This shows the radiator removed and how far I bent the horn mounts out of the way.
The center of the bolt marked for the pulley.
The hole saw used for the hole in the timing belt covers.
Make sure the gasket is removed before drilling.
The hole for the pulley.
8 Ga wire with 40 Amp self resetting fuse before I Plastic dip it.
Routing of 8 ga wire from battery to alternator.
Lower brkt for alternator with bolt welded in place. I did not care for the first brkt.
Lower brkt. I took the heat shield off the bike. Using the vertical brace as a template for holes.
Heat shield removed.
Alternator with the third leg sawed off.
The bolt welded on was too short. I made the third lower bracket
so it would cover some of the cutting of the heat shield. ( ANY of these brackets will work.)
These are the lower fairing bracket. These have been cut and will be reversed
When installed.
This is a plate to move the cover bolt over 1 inch so it will miss the pulley.
Tap the left hole so a bolt will fit.
I used the cover bolt and cut it off.
This plate is installed permanently to move the cover bolt over one inch.
Bolt fits in cover.
This is how it fits. I did not cover the old hole.
Cutting of the heat shield is a hit and miss. Cut it so the alternator misses the shield. I cut too much and that is why my lower bracket was made bigger
to cover some of my over cutting.
Lower alternator bracket installed.
Looking at the heat shield cutting and lower bracket in place.
7/8 inch Hanger ring. Can be found at Lowe's or any big box DIY store.
You can see the hanger installed on the right.
Hanger in place.
The spacer for the bottom of the alternator.
I used electrical conduit.
The hanger is used for the belt tensioner.
I used thread all and nuts doubled to keep it from moving.
I did not try to make an arc as the alternator has very little room.
My previous alternator never needed altered after first install.
View of belt tensioner.
Not much clearance.
Very little room.
Pulley, Stock washer with hole enlarged, and 60mm bolt. Pulley installed. I used BLUE locktite on the bolt. Belt I used from NAPA Belt installed. Tighten the belt to snug.
Clamp a straight edge on the pulley.
Straight edge shows I am perfectly aligned from pulley to alt. If not aligned put some spacers
on the bottom of the alt.
Radiator as it comes off the bike.
Shroud cut off by rad filler tube. I cut too much off the right side. rad filler tube. Both legs welded and extended. Blades hacked. New position for fan.
1 inch spacer for lower radiator.
Rad in place using the spacer. Do not forget to put the lower fairing brkt on. This pic I forgot to put the bottom radiator on.
1 inch chevy truck spacer and gaskets.
Spacer installed.
Lower hose attached.
To put the top rad hose on. I took the alt back off. Put the hose on, AND
DO NOT FORGET TO PLUG THE FAN WIRE BACK TOGETHER.
Install the alt again. Rad installed. Unplug the regulator plug. This disconnects the stater. Leave in place
for a back up in case something goes wrong with the alt.
I used the black wire in this plug to connect my
exciter wire for the alt. This plug is keyed to the ignition key. Alternator and belt in place. 8 Ga wire with fuse going to the battery. Time to do the wiring from the alternator.
The alternator connections.
The "s" wire I can plug into the black wire of the regulator/rec. Correct? Yes
The "ig" wire needs to be switched. Where can I attach this wire? Run it to the fuse box.
"b" goes directly to the battery W/ a fuse.
"L" goes to the idiot light and I will not use.
Fill your radiator with the correct coolant.
Finished the alternator conversion.
No plastic had to be cut.
Now one can add any number of lights, Heated clothing, Gloves with out reaching the max amps.
I am installing a second fuse box. I will be adding any new lights etc.. to this new fuse box.
I think it will be better than using the 30+year old wires to put this new current to use.
Hope you learned something here. If you do this conversion--Let us know.
- RoadRogue
- Posts: 2069
- Joined: Sun Jun 06, 2010 10:51 pm
- Location: southern Okanogan BC, Canada
- Motorcycle: 1997 1500SE
Re: Wes's GL1100 Alternator or Poor Boy Conversion
Deja Vu, glad to see this works for you.
Ride safe, Todd
Over night campers welcome
Over night campers welcome
- littlebeaver
- Posts: 4452
- Joined: Mon Sep 21, 2009 6:11 pm
- Location: Kansas City, Kansas
- Motorcycle: 1981 gl 1100 I , 79 Yamaha XS11
Special, 82 Kawa 750 CSR, 82 Kawa 750 LTD, 03 Kawa Nomad 1500, 99 Kawa Voyager 1200
Re: Wes's GL1100 Alternator or Poor Boy Conversion
Great Job... Looks good too.
-
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2015 1:23 pm
- Location: New Castle, DE
- Motorcycle: 1985 GL 1200A Aspencade
Re: Wes's GL1100 Alternator or Poor Boy Conversion
How can I get that alternator for my 85 gl1200a? Please let me know and the price.
- Wilcoy02
- Posts: 1212
- Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 11:37 pm
- Location: Marengo, Ohio
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 I purchased 3/16
1983 GL1100I frame with an 80 engine. poor boy installed with C-5 ignition--DIED in Grande Prairie Alberta Canada 8/15
98 valkyrie sold 8/16
Re: Wes's GL1100 Alternator or Poor Boy Conversion
The alternator I used is
Alternator WAI 14684N
Google that number and you will find several at different prices.
The bolt that holds the pulley at the timing belt cover was purchased at Lowe's
M12-1.25 x 60mm
7/8 inch hanger ring also purchased at Lowe's.
Alternator WAI 14684N
Google that number and you will find several at different prices.
The bolt that holds the pulley at the timing belt cover was purchased at Lowe's
M12-1.25 x 60mm
7/8 inch hanger ring also purchased at Lowe's.
-
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2011 1:29 am
- Location: Bothell, Wa.
- Motorcycle: 83honda GL1100 Aspencade
95 Concours
82 Nighthawk
Re: Wes's GL1100 Alternator or Poor Boy Conversion
is the stock fan a pusher or a puller?
- DenverWinger
- Posts: 2441
- Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:20 pm
- Location: Denver, CO
- Motorcycle: (s)
'80 GL1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
'93 GL1500 Aspencade (2017-)
'83 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
Past rides
'72 CL350 (1980-1988) sold
'78 Suzuki GS550 (1985-2005) sold
'77 GL1000 (2002-2006) sold
Re: Wes's GL1100 Alternator or Poor Boy Conversion
Pulls air thru the radiator.
A local inventor has figured a way to turn a sausage grinder backward to manufacture pigs.
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪
~Mark
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪
~Mark
-
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2011 1:29 am
- Location: Bothell, Wa.
- Motorcycle: 83honda GL1100 Aspencade
95 Concours
82 Nighthawk
Re: Wes's GL1100 Alternator or Poor Boy Conversion
thanks, i was able to move the fan a little higher up & got it to fit. gets pretty tight in there. but was contemplating getting a smaller 6" fan in case i couldn't get it to fit. we'll see how it goes.
-
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2011 1:29 am
- Location: Bothell, Wa.
- Motorcycle: 83honda GL1100 Aspencade
95 Concours
82 Nighthawk
Re: Wes's GL1100 Alternator or Poor Boy Conversion
hi, nice job. what angle bracket did you use that you bolted to your alternator? is that at lowes?
- Wilcoy02
- Posts: 1212
- Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 11:37 pm
- Location: Marengo, Ohio
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 I purchased 3/16
1983 GL1100I frame with an 80 engine. poor boy installed with C-5 ignition--DIED in Grande Prairie Alberta Canada 8/15
98 valkyrie sold 8/16
Re: Wes's GL1100 Alternator or Poor Boy Conversion
The angle bracket was on found in one of my junk drawers. Yes a lowes would be where I would get one. Just so the hole will go through the all thread.
- Chewy
- Posts: 291
- Joined: Thu Apr 18, 2019 11:07 pm
- Location: Readyville, TN United States
- Motorcycle: 1980 1100i Interstate
1983 1100a Aspencade
Re: Wes's GL1100 Alternator or Poor Boy Conversion
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