1. Loosen and remove the lower caliper bolt. You may or may not need to remove the upper pivot bolt depending on your model, and which side you are doing.
2. Swing the caliper up off the brake rotor and remove it. On some models, you may have to first remove the upper pivot bolt.
3. Unbolt the brake pin retainer bracket bolt.
4. Remove the brake pin retainer bracket.
5. Remove the brake retainer pins.
6. You will see the brake pistons partially retracted.
7. For the next step, I use a simple piece of 1/8" thick steel welding stock. It seems to be the perfect thickness.
8. Place the welding stock into the caliper in place of the brake pads.
9. While holding the welding stock in place, have an assistant pump the front brake lever. This will push the pistons out of the caliper. Usually one piston is hung up more than the other. Without the welding stock, one piston will come all the way out, leaving the other one hopelessly seized in the caliper. Using the welding stock, the piston is not allowed to completely eject from the cylinder. Once it hits the welding stock and stops, the remaining piston is forced out. Make sure you don't run your brake fluid reservoir dry while doing this - add some brake fluid if necessary.
10. Once both pistons have hit the welding stock, stop pumping the pedal, and remove the welding stock.
11. Keep pumping until one of the pistons drops out - at that point the brake fluid will drain out, and you will have to remove the other piston by hand.
12. Remove the banjo bolt fitting holding the brake line to the caliper.
13. Rinse the caliper and pistons with plenty of brake cleaner.
14. To clean and polish the pistons, you will need two fine grades of sandpaper - 600 and 1500.
15. This piston has corrosion and dirt on it, as well as scoring lines left from corrosion in the caliper.
16. Polish in a circular motion (never in a straight line) first with the 600 grit sandpaper, then with the 1500 grit sandpaper to polish it. After polishing with the 1500 paper, this is what it should look like - it will be extremely smooth to the touch.
17. The old pivot bolt boots have failed. Push the pivot bolt out, and remove the boots from the caliper.
18. The pivot bolt is dirty. Clean any dirt and corrosion gently, then polish with sandpaper the same way you polished the pistons. Careful, it is very soft aluminum.
19. Remove the brake spring from the caliper, and clean it with brake cleaner.
20. Very gently, using a small knife or screwdriver, pry out the rubber seals from the inside of the cylinders - two in each cylinder. Do not damage or mark the insides of the cylinders while doing so.
21. There is corrosion and residue inside the channels of the cylinder that hold the seals.
22. Gently scrape out the channels inside the cylinders. Be very careful not to mark or gouge the cylinder walls. Rinse out with brake cleaner, ensuring no residue remains inside the cylinder.
23. Lubricate the new seals with clean brake fluid to facilitate their insertion. The thicker seal goes in the lower channel, the thinner one goes in the upper channel. Ensure the upper seal does not twist, and that the thin ridges face inward.
24. Lubricate the outside of the pistons with clean brake fluid. Insert the pistons into the cylinder and gently push them all the way in. I find it helpful to have a large pipe, cover the end with a shop towel, and insert it into the piston. This makes it easy to make sure the piston is going in straight, and gives you a handhold to push the piston into the caliper.
25. Lubricate one of the new pivot boots with clean brake fluid and insert it. Lubricate the other pivot boot with clean brake fluid and put it on the pivot as shown. Lubricate the pivot with high temperature brake lubricant. Insert the second pivot boot into place.
26. Push the pivot bolt through the channel, and out through the first boot, ensuring the first boot is not pushed out of its channel. Ensure the outer lips of the boots are fastened in place properly on the pivot bolt.
27. Remove the boot from the pivot receptacle on the fork leg, and clean the inside of the receptacle with brake cleaner.
28. Lubricate the new pivot receptacle boot with clean brake fluid and insert it into the receptacle.
29. Insert the retainer spring into the caliper.
30. Push the new brake pads into the caliper, then push the brake pad retaining pins through to hold them in place.
31. Place the brake pin retaining bracket in place, and fasten the bracket retaining bolt.
32. Apply high-temperature brake lubricant to the pivot bolt. You may have to remove this bolt before the caliper is replaced on some models.
33. Place the caliper over the brake rotor, and fasten it in place with the upper pivot bolt and lower bolt.
34. Torque the bolts - the upper pivot bolt to 20 ft-lb, the lower bolt to 13 ft-lb for 1980-1981, and 17 ft-lb for 1982-1983 models.
35. Replace the banjo bolt on the brake line fitting, using new crush washers on either side of the banjo. Torque to 22 ft-lb.
36. Bleed the brakes. I highly recommend using a Mity-vac to bleed the brakes.
And yes, I'd recommend taking one with you just to be sure.
Where did you get the braided stainless brake lines? BTW- A REALLY detailed how to....nice job 