Fork Seal Repacement


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joshr08
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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by joshr08 » Sun Apr 08, 2012 5:10 pm



Im new here and getting ready to redo the forks on a 77 gl1000. I was just wondering what fluid and how much I use per fork. Thanks for the info this is a great write up.



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trikerbob
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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by trikerbob » Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:03 am

Wow after reading all 3 pages of posts on this subject,icantbelieve that no one has asked if anyone has the torque wrench settings for the oil drain bolts in the bottom of the forks or am i missing the fact that nobody bothers with immaterial things like thatanymore,maybe they just use FT settings.
If anybody has these for my 82 interstate gl1100 i would be grateful if they can post a reply to me.

Thanks in advance :o

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WingAdmin
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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by WingAdmin » Wed Sep 26, 2012 11:29 am

trikerbob wrote:Wow after reading all 3 pages of posts on this subject,icantbelieve that no one has asked if anyone has the torque wrench settings for the oil drain bolts in the bottom of the forks or am i missing the fact that nobody bothers with immaterial things like thatanymore,maybe they just use FT settings.
If anybody has these for my 82 interstate gl1100 i would be grateful if they can post a reply to me.

Thanks in advance :o
I had a look in the Honda service manual, and it's not specified. All it says is "Reinstall the drain plug." So use your best judgement.

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BENJEE2112
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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by BENJEE2112 » Mon Oct 15, 2012 7:09 pm

can i refill my forks without disasemling everything.(83 Standard) I lost oil when i was changing the boots on the anti-dive boxes. so i drained all of it out of both os them. my shop manual is for 80 - 83 it says 9.1 oz for oil change and 9.8oz. after dissasembling for 82. actually it just shows for 82. it doesn't say anything about 83.so i'm asuming 83 is the same as 82 forks. it's the last thing to do tomarrow. any help would be much apreciated for just filling and amount. thanks Ben

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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by WingAdmin » Tue Oct 16, 2012 10:25 am

BENJEE2112 wrote:can i refill my forks without disasemling everything.(83 Standard) I lost oil when i was changing the boots on the anti-dive boxes. so i drained all of it out of both os them. my shop manual is for 80 - 83 it says 9.1 oz for oil change and 9.8oz. after dissasembling for 82. actually it just shows for 82. it doesn't say anything about 83.so i'm asuming 83 is the same as 82 forks. it's the last thing to do tomarrow. any help would be much apreciated for just filling and amount. thanks Ben
Your shop manual (I suspect it's not a Honda manual) is incorrect.

The correct values are:

After draining:
1980-1981: 220cc (7.4 oz)
1982-1983: 270cc (9.1 oz)

After disassembly:
1980-1981: 240cc (8.0 oz)
1982-1983: 290cc (9.8 oz)

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BENJEE2112
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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by BENJEE2112 » Tue Oct 16, 2012 1:47 pm

ya, it's a real onefrom Honda. I think the way I worded it was a little confusing
It was correct ar 9.1 for changing and 9.8 after dissasembly.
when I take the top caps off. Do I just poor the ATFdown the center of the tube?
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eveready
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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by eveready » Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:37 pm

I need a little help. I'm trying to replace fork seals but can't get lower leg to come off. I've followed the directions on this post, but have wore my arms and shoulders out trying thump that lower leg down to dislodge the seal and it won't move. I've removed the bolt out of the bottom, removed the inner springs, circlip and plate below, but the seal won't move. Any suggestions? I even put the tube back on the bike to hold it.

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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by WingAdmin » Wed May 22, 2013 6:48 am

eveready wrote:I need a little help. I'm trying to replace fork seals but can't get lower leg to come off. I've followed the directions on this post, but have wore my arms and shoulders out trying thump that lower leg down to dislodge the seal and it won't move. I've removed the bolt out of the bottom, removed the inner springs, circlip and plate below, but the seal won't move. Any suggestions? I even put the tube back on the bike to hold it.
You've done the right things - if the seal is in there really tight, it can take a surprising amount of force to dislodge it.

If you still can't get it out, you can try replacing the bolt in the bottom, extending the fork all the way, then filling it to the very brim with fork oil. Put the cap back on, then put the fork in a press and force the fork to retract. Because there is no air inside (it's filled with fluid), and the fluid can't compress, the only thing it can do is to force the seal out. This is kind of like "blowing" your seal, only on purpose.



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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by eveready » Wed May 22, 2013 9:58 am

Thanks for the reply, but I got it. I ended up useing heat (cheap hot air gun from harbor frieght). I heated the outside of the fork leg in the seal area and it came loose with 2 good thumps. Too late to save the backup ring and bushings though. The heat gun worked great. Thanks

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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by echinus1988 » Tue Aug 20, 2013 10:39 pm

The people on this site have been so great about helping and here I am again asking for help again.

I have a 1980 GL 1100 Goldwing.

I haven't done front forks in decades! Nowhere in any of my information does it say about how to fill the forks again. With the air assist, I want to make sure I do it right.

I have take apart the forks, cleaned them and put them back together. Now I am thinking that I really do have to remove the caps on the forks and fill through the tops. Am I correct? It's something I didn't want to take apart but it really looks like I have to.

I will thank everyone in advance for your help.

Thank you everyone for all the help this site has given me!

Steve

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wally413
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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by wally413 » Sun Feb 02, 2014 11:05 am

I just wanted to say you guys are the best. i didn't want to do this job but the next thing i was doing was reading this form and before i knew it i was done redoing the forks like a pro (taking a Bath in oil) and finishing them in one day and had no problem doing so.
thanks again for a great write up and step by step how to's. now i have to find out why it was leaking anti coolent not much but enough to see this winter on ground.

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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by nickwarhead » Wed May 07, 2014 1:15 pm

I stripped one of the drain bolts trying to remove it from the bottom of the fork. Do you have to remove this bolt, or can I take the circlip out and pull the whole bottom off with the fluid still in them? If not, what would be recommended to remove the drain bolt from the bottom of the fork? Would a screw extractor work for this?

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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by WingAdmin » Wed May 07, 2014 2:30 pm

nickwarhead wrote:I stripped one of the drain bolts trying to remove it from the bottom of the fork. Do you have to remove this bolt, or can I take the circlip out and pull the whole bottom off with the fluid still in them? If not, what would be recommended to remove the drain bolt from the bottom of the fork? Would a screw extractor work for this?
Is it turning and not coming out? If so, then it's likely not stripped, it's just rotating the shock innards instead of unscrewing.

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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by nickwarhead » Wed May 07, 2014 2:33 pm

No, its rounded unfortunately...

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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by WingAdmin » Wed May 07, 2014 2:37 pm

nickwarhead wrote:No, its rounded unfortunately...
Hm. I don't remember now what type of bolt it was, but it's quite possible that it's like the later bikes, where it is a round bolt with an allen key socket, so you just use an allen key to loosen it. If that's the case, it's supposed to be rounded.

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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by nickwarhead » Wed May 07, 2014 2:38 pm

The inside of the allen screw is rounded (6MM hex)...

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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by WingAdmin » Wed May 07, 2014 2:40 pm

nickwarhead wrote:The inside of the allen screw is rounded (6MM hex)...
You might try this: http://align-rite.com/screwgrab.html

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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by nickwarhead » Wed May 07, 2014 10:00 pm

I was able to get the Allen screw out with a screw extractor. Worked like a charm.

Now, for my next issue. The new seal doesn't look the same as the old one. It's maybe 25% thicker and has little metal springs on the top and bottom. The little paper that came with it said to have the brand name facing up. This is part number Honda 51490-MB9-782 (both the seal and dust cover), which Partzilla says is compatible with the 1983 GL1100.

Has any one experienced this when purchasing seal kits, and it this correct?

Here is a comparison:
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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by WingAdmin » Thu May 08, 2014 9:32 am

The seals are supposed to have little springs in them, that's what holds the seal tight against the slider to create the seal. Perhaps the old seals are aftermarket? Maybe that's why they're thicker, to try to make up for the lack of spring?

I know the Honda OEM seals I put on my bikes always had the little springs in them.

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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by nickwarhead » Thu May 08, 2014 9:37 am

Its the new ones that are about 25% thicker. It is very possible that someone used the wrong seals to begin with. The old ones do not have any springs. Its probably why it they were leaking in the first place. I also noticed that the drain screws did not have any washers, either.

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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by stevenstrack » Thu Jul 03, 2014 11:52 am

I know this is two months after last post but those crush washers sometimes get stuck/compressed in and may appear to somebody unfamiliar with them that there is not a washer. Took me about 15 minutes to dislodge one in my fork. Need to pick out gently without marring the fork. I used a pick tool but was very careful! Also instead of using a notched piece of wood for the caps I made a tool out of PVC pipe, notched the end to fit the fork cap, used a band clamp to reinforce the end, I used a PVC union on the other end and put a T fitting to assist in leverage when pushing down to screw the cap. I will post a picture soon. Unless you have some great arm strength a second set of hands really helps buteo their way you will have to make some type of cap installation tool to assist in compression of the springs. :D

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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by bruce swaybill » Sun Jan 11, 2015 8:45 pm

This has been a great thread.

Well, I got one hex bolt loose (on the fork that's leaking) but the other is completly rounded. The screw extractor isn't budging it either, keeps loosing its bite. (Btw, the link for hex screw help takes you to a page with a menu that does not respond to clicks...)

Seems the screw had some adhesive oozing out around it. It doesn't look like Locktite....

Since the screw is shot anyway, I was thinking of drilling out the head, then deal with it further once it is apart.

Comments?

Ya know what they say: Every screw is an adventure!
Thanks for any help.
Bruce S.
Have a nice day! :)

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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by WingAdmin » Mon Jan 12, 2015 10:35 am

What kind of screw extractor are you using? A square E-Z Out or one like this?


I've found the type in the image above work far better than E-Z Outs on hex-head screws.

Another option, if you have the equipment, is to weld a bolt to the screw head and use it to unscrew it - although you're in pretty tight spaces there.

I also find that an impact driver works well to free up stubborn screws like that, if you can get something that will bite into it. I have one like this that rarely fails me:



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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by bruce swaybill » Mon Jan 12, 2015 5:02 pm

My screw extractors looks like those pictured and my ~35 year old impact driver is a dead ringer for yours - case and all.

Plus, the screw extractor that fits the wrecked hex hole will not fit in the impact driver and the next size down extractor that fits in the driver requires a deeper hole in the screw to catch the edges of the hole. By the time I deepen the hole, I will have cut off the head.

The screws were so tight (or is it the Locktite) that torque to loosen it was too much for the extractor size that fit. I got lucky with one, but the other... Can not catch a break on this one ....

Does that Screwgrab gel really work? I dont know if the screw is too far gone...

Thanks.
Bruce S.
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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Post by WingAdmin » Tue Jan 13, 2015 9:52 am

The ScrewGrab stuff does work - but you have to have SOME interference between the fastener and driver in order for it to do its job. If it's just spinning loosely in there, it's not going to make any difference.



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