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Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 5:39 pm
by bruce swaybill
I drilled the screw head out and the slider was free to fall until the bushings collided - just like the first fork. I'm thinkin' "cool!".

So I move on to removing the dust covers. On the leaking fork I find a pool of oil and no foam washer. Ok, I'm feeling good about all this effort. On the second fork, again I find no foam washer and something I can't explain. Where I can see the retaining ring and seal on the first:


all I see on the second is what appears to be an aluminum ring that doesn't want to come out:


Has anyone seen this before?! Have I been screwed by a previous owner? This is turning into "the fork seal job from hell"...

Thanks for any help.
Bruce S.

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 11:32 am
by WingAdmin
At this point, there is no retaining clip. I would just pull (bang) the tube out and push out everything, then decide what parts you need to source in order to rebuild it correctly.

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 8:50 pm
by bruce swaybill
As suggested, I gave it a few good wacks. Going nowhere, I removed the fork tube from the triple tree and gave it a few more good wacks. Suddenly, this mystery aluminum piece revealed itself as a stinkin' washer! After that I saw the retaining ring and seal as you would expect. All come apart nicely, although the 'back-up' washer was wasted. The replacement part number that superseded the original is much thicher and probably would have survived my onslaught.... Now waiting for remaining parts to come in.

All this wacking while in the triple tree got me thinking of damage I might have caused to the main stem bearings or even the triple trees themselves. Nothing appearent when I swing the bars, just some paranoia.... Should I be worried? :!:

Thanks.
Bruce S.

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 10:08 pm
by bruce swaybill
So, everything cleaned up nicely and assembled with no problems. In addtion to the seal job, I rebuilt the TRAC devices. Replaced the bushings, seals, backup washers, circlips, screws, o-rings, boots as well as the springs (Progressive). I did have a scare when I re-assembled everything but the springs and caps and tried to stroke the sliders: one moved easily, the other had a lot of stiction. I could not figure what was different about them as I was sure I assembled them indentically. I filled them with Honda fork oil (10W SS8 the modern replacement for ATF) and it improved, but still not the same. After mounting and completing the assembly, I bounced the front end 20 or so times to see how the felt. Felt fine with no stiction apparent, but I heard the springs. After the air hose was installed and the pressure set at 20psi, some more bouncing showed things quieted down.
Very supple - can't wait for springtime. :D

Thanks to everyone for the information in this thread.

Bruce S.

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2015 8:45 am
by gsanders99
Replaced the sliders and seals this past weekend on my '83 GL1100i. It was worn out! I had no idea how bad.

Dropped some pics here: http://www.gasanders.org/tracks/2015/09 ... g-renewal/

Be prepared to spend some time, make a mess and generally improve your riding life significantly. :)

And Bruce . . . I'm betting my triple-tree has taken more abuse from the highway than I can dish out.

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2015 6:59 pm
by bruce swaybill
Fortunately,the fork motion is very smooth and has performed great all summer. The results of the seal job have been very good.
Maybe some day the head bearings will need it, but not today.

Thanks for thinking of me.
Bruce S.

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 9:55 am
by chevy_man5
Well, being new to Goldwings, this article was a lifesaver this weekend. Took apart my girlfriends '82 Wing and replaced the fork seals yesterday. The step by step how to in this was fantastic. Unfortunately it was snowing/raining by the time I was done, so no test ride, but she sits better now!

Thank you for the great site!

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 9:39 pm
by Nealschoen
And here you are again! Lol. I got a credit for the brake pads but have to wait for the right size until Thursday. So I went after the forks. The stupid lower will not come off despite 2 hours of intermittent banging. Can barely move my arm.

Hopefully a few more whacks and it will come loose.

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 5:51 am
by chevy_man5
Well hello again Neal!

Glad to hear you got credit on the brake pads! Bummer on the wait though, that is the hardest part!

I ended up undoing the clamps on the sides of the tubes that hold them in the triple tree and sliding them out the bottom. There are a couple of bolts in the top side and a couple just below them. Then used a longer chunk of the PVC pipe to wack the lowers out of there. I didn't remove the end caps, just took the air fittings off so they would fit. Then I didn't have to fight the springs.

Hope that helps!

Good luck again!

Re: Fork Seal Repacement Special Tool Recommended

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 9:01 am
by rogmerrill
I've done the rebuild and the article was very helpful on my '83 Aspy. I would add one thing, however: BUY A SNAP RING PLIERS for the fork snap ring removal. I have a couple of snap ring pliers that don't work for this application since the snap rings are so far down in. Honda makes a special tool that costs $90 and is worth every penny, but Motion Pro makes one that goes for about $26 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-027 ... ingdocs-20

You can do the job without this tool, but you risk scratching the fork tubes without it.

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 7:31 am
by jaydubb80
N2PPN wrote:Hi MJ,
After re-reading your original post, I would make only one change.... fill the forks with the ATF/Fork oil BEFORE you put the caps back on.. Otherwise you would have to find a way to fill the forks with oil through the air hose holes..

I used one of those long thin tapered funnels (like the ones perfectly suited for adding ATF into your car's transmission dip stick tube) and it fit through the springs pretty far down as to not have any ATF get on the dash or fairing. I also wound up using wifey's (don't tell her) gravy oil separator cup (the one that has a spout attached to the BOTTOM of the measuring cup, so you can let the oil stay on top and pour from the bottom) which had pretty accurate measurement markings on it's sides. I might have preferred a real graduated cylinder, but my childhood chemistry set has long been discarded.

I was pretty anal about cleaning out the bore of both the tubes and sliders, using oil absorbing pads and a sort of a push/pull rod like a shotgun cleaning kit. After several cleaning wipes, I then used one with a little degreaser, then several more clean wipes and then one clean one with a light amount of the Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF on it to coat the insides/outsides up a little before reassembly. Reminded me of all those times I was cleaning my rifles/shotguns.

The only thing I noticed after putting it all back together (almost forgot about re-tightening the top pinch bolts, but caught them on a second check) was I now have spring noise when I compress the front forks. I installed new progressive springs (the one piece ones with the variable rate) and installed them with the tightly wound end down as recommended by Progressive.

I can only assume that the noise might be because the springs haven't gotten coated in oil yet or it is just a new noise I will have to deal with. Other than that, I re-pressurized the forks to about 16 psi (a little less than half the range of 14 to 21 psi) and the front end feels real nice... Still haven't gone out for a ride, I am hoping to run a few errands today and use the bike, so I will report back on the ride improvement.

More to follow...


Rich
How much oil did you put in each fork??

Re: Fork Seal Replacement

Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 7:41 am
by rogmerrill
I put in the Progressive Suspension fork springs and they said use 20 weight oil and no air pressure at all. The forks work great that way. I used oil up to the 5 1/2 inch down mark which is the max Progressive recommends.

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Sat Jul 23, 2016 9:38 am
by tallnwise
Hi guys,

About to rebuild my front forks, replace seals and put in Progressive springs. I have a 1980 GL1100 Standard. How much ATF should i put in "in ounces" with the Progressive springs? I see only information on the height of the oil level, but no qty. Can anyone advise?

Thanks,
Dan.

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 8:43 pm
by kdurfee
I'm in the middle of this job right now. I made the pvc slide seal hammer. I'm having a heck of a time getting the copper plated bushing to go in its spot.

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 11:23 am
by drummerdave9
Thanks for the info. It saved me some $. However while doing new seals I installed a set of progressive Springs in the front and now I am topping out which hads blown my fog light bulbs. According to the instructions it describes stock spacers and chamging the height. Not sure what they are talking about since my aspencade does not have any. do I need to add the 3.5 spacer to the left and 4.2 spacer to the right?. Any insight would be smooth.

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 12:18 pm
by rogmerrill
I am not sure of the question, but when I installed the Progressive Suspension (PS) springs in my '83 Aspencade, I needed no spacers. I followed the PS instructions to set the oil level at 5.5 inches below the top of the fork tube with the fork completely collapsed and the fork springs removed.

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 10:42 pm
by drummerdave9
Thanks. All reassembled and rides great.

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 11:42 pm
by toolman770
To all,
This is the first post I have submitted, although I've been 'lurking' around the forum for some time. By way of back ground, I'm 70 years old, and have been riding steadily since 1971. I have owned a total of five (5) goldwings, a 1978 GL1000, a 1982 GL1100I with a sidecar, a 1983 GL1100, and currently a low mileage 1981 GL1100. On these bikes, and several other brands, I have accumulated over 300,000 miles, and kept (keep) detailed maintenance logs on each bike. Although I am not a professional mechanic, I have always done all the maintenance and / or repair work on my bikes. With this in mind, I offer these suggestions to all those who are replacing their fork seals or changing their fork oil.
The "How To" presented in this thread explains this procedure quite well, and I do not pretend to be able to add to it. However, I do have a couple of suggestions to add.
I do not like to have the highly polished surfaces of the upper fork tubes exposed to the bugs, dust, stones, etc. that can (eventually) damage the hard chrome plating. This damage will cut the sealing surface of the fork seal, causing them to leak, and new seals will not solve the problem. If the damage is severe enough, replacing the fork tube is your only solution!
To prevent this type of damage, I always install a set of fork 'gaitors' when I replace the stock fork springs with Progressive springs. These are the rubber accordian type covers that may look old fashioned to some, but will greatly extend the life of your expensive fork tubes and the seals! The fork gaitors I use (and highly reccomend) are produced by Honda, and are the ones used on the GB500TT motorcycle Honda sold in the US during the 1981-83 time frame. These gaitors fit perfectly, and last for many years. (I first used these on my '78 GL1000 in 1983, and they are still performing as expected, after 160,000 additional miles!) One additional note: When using the gaitors, delete the Honda dust cover. Instead, fill the cavity above the fork seal and the retaining back up ring,and snap ring with waterproof wheel bearing grease. This grease, available at any marina, will prevent any moisture, dust, bug, etc., from getting down to the snap ring and / or seal back up plate and cause damage to them through corrosion.
One additional suggestion. All the GL1100's I have seen have two styles of fork caps. Substitue a fork cap with the fill valve for the one with only the air balance tube. Now, when filling your forks with oil, remove both valve stems from the fill valves. Using a piece of appropriate sized clear vinyl tubing, available at any aquarium shop, Home Depot, Lowes, etc.,and a small funnel, pour your premeasured fork oil into each fork leg.( A glass baby bottle works well as a measuring device.) The air displaced will exit through the air balance tube and out the other fork cap! When done with both fork tubes, replace the stems and caps. Viola, the job is done!
I hope these suggestions will work for others as well as they have for me! :D

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 11:25 pm
by rockford75
When taking the caps off the forks. How much spring pressure is against the cap?

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 8:03 am
by WingAdmin
rockford75 wrote:
Mon Jul 02, 2018 11:25 pm
When taking the caps off the forks. How much spring pressure is against the cap?
It depends. Are the springs original or aftermarket? How old are they? How much load have they been carrying over their lifetime?

So there's no good answer. It could be anywhere from 20 to 120 lbs...or more.

Re: Fork Seal Repacement

Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 10:56 am
by rockford75
WingAdmin wrote:
Tue Jul 03, 2018 8:03 am
rockford75 wrote:
Mon Jul 02, 2018 11:25 pm
When taking the caps off the forks. How much spring pressure is against the cap?
It depends. Are the springs original or aftermarket? How old are they? How much load have they been carrying over their lifetime?

So there's no good answer. It could be anywhere from 20 to 120 lbs...or more.
WOW!!! I love surprises! lol well the last 10yrs theyve been carring my fat ass around iam 300lbs. The PO was a lighter guy like 200lbs. The springs are original and the fork seals have been done before by the PO. Im also putting in progressive springs when I do the seals. Bottom line Iam gonna find out soon how much load they have lol... I notched out a tool on a piece of 2x2 for the caps. Like you made in your How To article.