1985 GL1200 LTD Maintenance - Clutch Handle Bushing Replacement

[Rednaxs60]

Did a small maintenance routine today on the clutch handle. Found the thread about replacing the clutch handle bushing that WingAdmin did for the 1500 and thought it might be a good idea to do on my '85. Called my local Honda dealer and they had several of these bushings in stock, P/N 22885-MB0-006 (1500 and 1200 are the same), for $6.55 CDN (taxes in).

Start of the new bush install had me remove the accessories controls and cables out of the way. First Pic start of job:

Removals:

There is also an acorn nut on my bike to be removed from the clutch handle securing bolt:

Also took measurements before and after. First measurement is with clutch lever out full. You will notice that there is just over 3 1/2 inches between handle and clutch lever.:

This picture shows clutch lever with slack taken out. The amount of slack to be taken up is just over 3/4", significant play:

This picture shows the old bushing in the clutch handle before removal. Notice the deformation of the bushing:

Will continue in next post.

[Rednaxs60]

After the accessory block and cables were out of the way, and the acorn nut removed, the securing pin came out quite easily.

The handle was removed and the push rod came with it as well. The push rod that is supposed to be free to move was welded in to the old bushing with a lot of crud. This picture shows the handle on the work bench with the deformed bushing and push rod:

Took a bit of work to separate the push rod from the old bushing. Here is a picture of the old and new bushing, considerable difference:

Cleaned up the push rod and lubed the bushing, push rod and securing bolt with some multi-purpose lithium grease. I think I will take the advice of WingAdmin and make this an annual maintenance routine - remove, clean, grease, reinstall. here is a picture of the handle and securing bolt ready to go back in:

Install is the opposite of the removal (of course). Here is a picture of the handle clutch installed with the new bushing showing. Quite a different picture than at the start. Notice the difference between the before and after pictures:
Before:

After:

New post required (picture limit).

[Rednaxs60]

This should be my last post for this quick fix. The grease used was a multi-purpose lithium grease:

Took some pictures of the change in the slack in the clutch handle. Before the new bushing install, there was almost 3/4" of slack in the clutch handle. With the new bushing installed, the slack is approximately 3/8".

This is the clutch lever before the slack is taken out of the handle at start of bushing replacement:

Clutch lever slack before new bushing installed:

Clutch lever slack with new bushing installed:

You will notice I have gained approximately 1/2" of clutch lever travel, expect a significant change in how the clutch system works.

This job should take only about 20 to 30 minutes without taking photos. I was quite surprised by the wear on this bushing, but the bike is some 31 years old. Highly recommend this as a maintenance issue and then a follow up routine. Had fun doing this. I still intend to do the clutch MC and slave along with changing the old lines with new SS braided Teflon, but that is for the next maintenance period - time to start riding. Cheers

Ernest

[WingAdmin]

It's a good maintenance item to do, because if the bushing wears through, the pushrod will quickly push into (and through) the clutch lever, and you'll have to buy a replacement clutch lever as well. Not to mention the fact you won't be able to use your clutch!

[Rednaxs60]

It's a good maintenance item to do, because if the bushing wears through, the pushrod will quickly push into (and through) the clutch lever, and you'll have to buy a replacement clutch lever as well. Not to mention the fact you won't be able to use your clutch!

I hear you on this! If I had not been browsing and seen some older threads on this that directed me to the one you did, I would not have thought about it. After reading the different threads, and noticing how my clutch was not quite right, I decided this was a good thing to do. Will know more in about a 1/2 hour as it is time for a road test, no snow here and quite balmy actually.

This is a great site to browse as are the other ones on GWs.

Thanks for all your hard work. Cheers

Ernest

[Rednaxs60]

It's a good maintenance item to do, because if the bushing wears through, the pushrod will quickly push into (and through) the clutch lever, and you'll have to buy a replacement clutch lever as well. Not to mention the fact you won't be able to use your clutch!

As an aside, my pushrod has a rubber grommet/o-ring between the lands on the pushrod. Checked the parts fiche and there is no indication of this. Must be an OEM build item only.

Cheers

Ernest

[Rednaxs60]

Went for a test ride and got rained on; however, engagement of the clutch is now approximately 2 or so inches from the handle instead of 1" from the handle. It did shift a bit smoother as well. Will take some adjustment, but at least I know that the clutch will fully disengage when the lever is pulled in. A good, small maintenance routine worth the time.

Cheers

Ernest

[julimike54]

How many miles on your '85?

[Rednaxs60]

How many miles on your '85?

Approximately 117K Kms (73K miles)

[julimike54]

Thanks
not enough characters

[Rednaxs60]

Thanks
not enough characters

117000 Kms or 73000 miles

[Mr moe]

Rednaxs60.

What's with the rubber gloves?
Hands cold?

[Rednaxs60]

Rednaxs60.

What's with the rubber gloves?
Hands cold?

It's my way of being empathetic to my family in Larder Lake, a few miles north of your location.

[Rusty Bike]

This is a very good point for clutch maintenance that should be addressed. I have an additional fix to add. The clutch handle will wear at the pivot pin also, causing slop and lessening clutch travel. I had this problem on my 750 Yamaha Special. I fashioned a rectangular shim from a plastic milk jug. This shim was curled then placed in the clutch lever pivot hole then the pin was reinstalled. The slop was gone and the shim is still in there doing it's job. It seems to last forever.

This works on row boat oar locks also but the shim needs to stick up above lock then heat plastic and form a lip to keep the shim from falling out. Makes the oars quiet also. Just in case you are a fisherman!