Hand made regulator rectifier

[Ivan161]

here is a diagram of enhanced regulator rectifier which we have people do instead of failed

[AZgl1800]

a copy of the 1st pictorial to emphasize the connections for the diode stack

[AZgl1800]

Here is the Data Sheet for the MB-506 diode array

https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/part ... BP-pdf.php

[DenverWinger]

I like the design, Slick!

Rectifier Bridge rated 50 Amps, more than sufficient. And since a Bridge Pack (4 Diodes) is being used, you are actually doubling up the diodes for a total of twelve....

Here's Spec Sheet for the Triac used as Shunt, rated 40 Amps
https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/bta40.pdf

ULN2003 is seven Darlington arrays in one package, only one array used here. Output current 500ma
https://www.seeedstudio.com/document/pd ... asheet.pdf

14v 0.5 Watt Zener Diodes readily available, Most I found were SMT, here's a 5 watt diode with wire leads.
https://www.circuitspecialists.com/1n5351.html

You can also do remote voltage sensing with this, put the Sense line straight to the battery.

[Ivan161]

here is a broken regulator rectifier from which I removed the compound to see how it works and its ,,shendengen,, manufacturer's site diagram

[Ivan161]

Zener diode bzx55c-14 https://www.chipdip.ru/product/bzx55c14 Zener diodes a lot, and many are good, but you need to consider the following points:
The Zener diode needs the right current. That is, the minimum current of the Zener diode should not be more than 5 milliamps, and the maximum-not less than 15. Moreover, these currents are interrelated, the working area of the Zener diode is usually 20-30 milliamps, that is, if the Zener diode has a maximum current of 50 milliamps, its minimum current will be 50-30 milliamps=20, that is, such a Zener diode is not suitable. Stores often mark the Zener diode for the power, for example "13 volt 0.5 watt".
This means that the maximum current of the Zener diode is 0.5 W / 13v = 30 milliamps. So this minimum Zener current is about 1 milliampere, and a Zener diode will do.
The Zener diode is needed at the correct voltage, that is 14 volts. Volt - to-volt here on the Zener diode, one and a half volts at the output of the circuit. If there is no Zener diode at 14 volts under the hands, you can dial it from several Zener diodes in total (7+7 6+8) or add the desired number of any low-power silicon diodes in direct connection, based on the calculation that 1 diode adds 0.7 volts to the Zener diode. For example to Zener diode on 13 volts need 1 diode like 1N400*, KD521 , KD522 , KD509 , KD510 etc. C the same success instead of the diode can be used a second Zener diode. From the point of view of the Assembly is even more preferably — took two of the Zener diode 13 volts, soldered labels to each other, stuck in the scheme of any party, and the issue is closed

[Ivan161]

it is not necessary to remove the wire from the Zener diode to the battery.it in the circuit still monitors the voltage through the connection in the circuit

[Rednaxs60]

it is not necessary to remove the wire from the Zener diode to the battery.it in the circuit still monitors the voltage through the connection in the circuit

Have been trying to educate myself on the different diodes being used and how these work in the schematics presented. Tough time getting my mind wrapped around the issue, but I will endeavour to persevere.

Agree that the sense wire does not have to go to the battery and will sense the system voltage as originally depicted. There is a red and red/white wire at the starter solenoid. General consensus is that the red wire provides power to the ignition switch and the red/white wire is from the RR. The OEM wiring design has the output from the RR and the red wire from the starter solenoid connected in the wiring harness as well.

You can see in this schematic where the two wires are connected together.

This serves a couple of purposes. Once the engine is started an the battery is replenished to a 100% state of charge, there is actually very little current flow to the battery, it is now a "passenger" at approximately 12.6 VDC receiving a trickle charge from the system. The majority of the current goes through the ignition switch to power the bike electrical system at approximately 14.2 VDC. Once the engine is started, the battery will only be used as a supplemental power source when the electrical system voltage falls below battery voltage.

If you want to change where the RR sense wire is connected into the system, find the connection in the wiring harness and connect there. It will/should give the best electrical system voltage representation available by being subjected to the electrical system variations in a more real time aspect, and there will be less line loss even if the line loss is very little.

Great thread going here and very good ingenuity. Cheers

[Ivan161]

nearly ready.try very hard.when to send the wire then it will be shown fully

[Ivan161]

continuing about homemade RR scheme SKRUTa.soldered the exits. 3-phase generator (YELLOW) or three plus(RED)three minus(GREEN).one pair plus and minus added for extra fuse block to extra equipment to power not from the ACC outlet on the drain fuse block.wall-side cover interim until the potting compound purely for form

[WingAdmin]

Oh good, you are going to pot it. My only comment was that the soldered wires left the way they were would be prone to failure from vibration. But potting it will take care of that problem, and help with the heat dissipation as well.

It looks great!

[Ivan161]

yeah, sure.I will definitely pour the compound.epoxy resin

[SlowTyper]

I have a new never used GL1200 regulator rectifier that I bought long ago to have as a spare. If someone wants it, PM me and make an offer.

I am curious in the above design, what limits the current through the zener diode when the voltage goes high, as might occur when connecting an external high current battery charger?

[C4_yrslf]

I'll be making one of these myself as the one on the bike failed.
I bought a very cheap one for the time being hoping it doesn't blow diodes before I finish this hand made one.

I just need to confirm that I can use SCRs instead of TRIACs, I see no problems with the circuit using SCRs.
I have a bunch of high power SCRs on hand that I could use.
Other thing I don't understand is why use a darlington array instead of a single darlington transistor. Is it to get spares?
Thanks