How to replace your cruise and sub air filters


Step-by-step tutorials on how to maintain and fix your GL1500
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CWJ73
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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by CWJ73 » Fri Oct 31, 2014 9:03 am



Dwight_n_Sue wrote: I used CycleMax as a source and through their drawings breakdown I was able to find it. (CAP, L. DEFLECTOR *NH326P* (PEARL GLACIER WHITE) 64296-MT2-000ZS). After shipping around $45. Ouch but it has to
$45??? Ouch. That is quiet the hit. I was visiting a local mc shop the other day to pick up oil and filter for this years winterization and saw they had this piece in crime for significantly less. I may order a set of left and right side covers just in case one or both fall off.

What type of adhesive are you guys using to help secure these covers to the bike? 2 side tape, hot glue, silicon?


Craig

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Dwight_n_Sue
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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by Dwight_n_Sue » Fri Oct 31, 2014 9:16 am

I don't use an adhesive because I want to be able to remove the screws under the tabs. Maybe that's why I have to buy replacements.

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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by WingAdmin » Fri Oct 31, 2014 11:42 am

Ouch, that's expensive! Last time I lost one it was around $15 to replace - it seems the "Glacier White" and "Coronado Red" ones are five times the price of the blue and black ones.

I have a small piece of very strong double-sided tape on the screw head, that sticks to the inside of the cap. It definitely holds the cap in place, and I just replace the tape any time I need to remove the cap/screw.

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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by m2102 » Fri Oct 31, 2014 11:47 am

I lost one on my 1500, red, and got 2 chrome replacements at neihause for o think the pair was 18$. I put a dab of silicone on the screes and works great

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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by chouston99 » Sat Jan 17, 2015 9:14 am

Thanks WingAdmin for the step by step instructions they were great. I got it done in about a half a day but I took my time.
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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by DarthJ » Sat May 16, 2015 11:45 pm

This is great info. Picked up a beautiful blue Aspencade a couple months back and ordered the sub, cruise, and air filters after reading the how-to. Figure now that I'm done with classes till summer session in July, better get maintenance done while I can. And after reading replies about the sub filter being bad after a year, yeah, going to order a few of those and change them every year. It's cheap insurance to keep her running well, so why not?
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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by Sawdust62 » Mon May 25, 2015 4:07 pm

WARNING! READ THIS IF YOU ARE GOING TO DO THIS PROCEDURE. When removing the reverse lever, be very careful that the lever separates from the pivoting cable assembly that has wire cables attached. When I pulled the lever out, the cable assembly came off the shaft with it and it was a royal pain to get it back on the shaft because of the tension the cables are under. I had to soak in WD40 for about two hours to get the two pieces to separate and get the side cover off. After trying to pry, push, and pull the assembly back onto the shaft, I finally just bent the upper cable clamp out to give it some slack. Once I got it back on the shaft, I pushed the cable back into place and bent the clamp down. Remove the two nuts on the cable ends and remove the detent lever/bracket until everything else is back in place. Can someone tell me if that detent lever is supposed to make contact with the cable bracket? There is a slot for the detent to fit into but you can see in my photo, it isn't touching. Also, there is a pin at the bottom of the cable bracket (6 o'clock position) that fits into a hole in the mount. Not sure if this pin is original or a replacement, it doesn't look like it belongs there because of the flat end with the hole in it.

Red arrow=cable, Yellow=shaft, Green=cable bracket, Blue=reverse lever.  Make sure the cable bracket and reverse lever separate before it comes off the shaft.  Foam at bottom is the inside of the side cover.
Red arrow=cable, Yellow=shaft, Green=cable bracket, Blue=reverse lever. Make sure the cable bracket and reverse lever separate before it comes off the shaft. Foam at bottom is the inside of the side cover.


This was after separating the reverse lever from the bracket and getting the side over off.
This was after separating the reverse lever from the bracket and getting the side over off.


Is the detent lever (yellow arrow) supposed to be in the notch in the cable bracket, and is the pin (orange arrow) supposed to look like that?
Is the detent lever (yellow arrow) supposed to be in the notch in the cable bracket, and is the pin (orange arrow) supposed to look like that?


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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by WingAdmin » Tue May 26, 2015 11:06 am

The spring is definitely supposed to push up into that notch in the cam pulley (Honda calls it the "reverse drum"), that is what keeps the lever from rattling and vibrating when it is down.

The pin is actually supposed to be attached to the reverse lever, and should come out of that hole when the lever is removed. There is a small pin and E type spring clip that attach the pin to the lever. It is used to help position the lever, and prevents it from rotating without first pulling it out. I lost the pin on mine and had to order a replacement.

If the lever is held that snugly to the cam pulley (probably due to corrosion), you should probably file one or two of the surfaces slightly - it should be a firm fit, but should come apart easily.

You can see the pin that you show in your picture in the parts diagram below (item 6). The pin that holds it in place is part 11, and there is a small spring (part 4), that's what holds the lever tight against the bike. The E clip is part 15.

Exploded reverse lever diagram
Exploded reverse lever diagram

Pin item 6: 24808-MAM-L40
Pin item 11: 90116-MN5-000
Spring item 4: 24806-MN5-000
E clip item 15: 94540-03018

See: http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com ... EVERSE-BAR

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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by johngrim » Fri Jun 26, 2015 10:14 pm

Wingadmin you're a great help. Yesterday was a Super Brace. A couple of weeks ago was air and fuel filters but of all things I forgot to replace the sub and cruise air filters! Those got it today. I wouldn't have known about them or how to change them without this forum. Thank you, the pictures are great help.

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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by johngrim » Fri Jun 26, 2015 10:42 pm

I forgot to mention new Amsoil in the rear differential. Boy that old stuff was black, thick, not much of it, stunk to high someplace and the old girl sounds better.

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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by jdtetoit » Sat Jul 04, 2015 7:24 am

It pays to have a large workbench handy.


And having a laptop close by with this thread on it helps.

Spent the day on the bike, once you get all that plastic off its time to take a look around and check things out.

Found that the plastic at both mirrors has stress cracks along the edge and one broken tab on the right side fairing.
Plus the usual assortment of large bug carcasses and a feather?

I also did the rear diff fluid and discovered my pipes will need replacing soon (inside rot).

Those crumby filters are also in your air pump (did the easy one) on the inlet.

I was short one filter so I used a oil breather element form an old ford f350 I never used kind of like plastic fur will see how it holds up.

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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by jandjgoldwing » Sun Jul 12, 2015 5:21 pm

The amount of work required to replace these two filters is almost unbelievable. There could be an argument that these were installed to give the mechanic job security. The job took me about 6 hours. A skilled mechanic could probably do it in two, but that would cost at least $150 just for labor. So, my advice, have them replaced when the mechanic is already doing something else in the same area of the bike.
When I finally got to the filters, I found that they were, indeed, in desperate need of replacement. Both disintegrated upon disassembly. As I see it, the problem is that these filters are made of foam rubber. I wonder if there isn't a more permanent material which would do the same job, such as fiberglass cloth.
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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by papaM11945 » Mon Dec 28, 2015 1:06 pm

Has anyone developed a list of all the maintenance jobs that can / should be done while all that plastic is off the bike? It would be nice to only have to do it once a year. It's frustrating to put everything back together and find out you should have done one other thing. Thanks. This is a fantastic site for Goldwing owners.

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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by Doug B. » Mon Apr 11, 2016 8:15 pm

A previous poster asked the question: "Is it really necessary to oil either one of the two filters?" I couldn't find an answer before the thread ended in 2015. Is it possible the oil could be deteriorating the foam rubber?

Not to dig up old bones on an old forum, but I felt that was a GOOD question.

Any thoughts? I'd sure appreciate some feedback.

Thanks!
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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by WingAdmin » Tue Apr 12, 2016 1:19 pm

Doug B. wrote:A previous poster asked the question: "Is it really necessary to oil either one of the two filters?" I couldn't find an answer before the thread ended in 2015. Is it possible the oil could be deteriorating the foam rubber?

Not to dig up old bones on an old forum, but I felt that was a GOOD question.

Any thoughts? I'd sure appreciate some feedback.

Thanks!
Oiling the filter is standard procedure, and is even detailed in the Honda service manual:

Oiling filter
Oiling filter

The filters are a simple foam filter element. The oil adds "stickiness" to capture and trap dust particles, to prevent them from migrating through the foam into the protected system. It also allows the foam filter element to capture particles smaller than the openings in the foam. Not oiling the filters will allow those smaller particles to pass right through into the protected system.

I'm pretty sure that Honda would not use a type of foam that is deteriorated from contact with oil, and then specify that you should soak the filter in oil before installing.

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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by coolrunning » Wed Feb 28, 2018 12:36 pm

Since I read this article, I wanted to change out the cruise and sub filters on my GL1500 Aspencade, and ordered them along with some other parts from CycleMax. A few days later, I noticed my order was cancelled. Assuming the items were out of stock or back-ordered, I called CycleMax to see what happened. I was told by the sales clerk that the owner cancelled my orders because of some dispute in the past. I cannot recall any such dispute, but they would not give me any details. I may have returned something that didn't fit, but why would that be considered a dispute? I have never been told by any vendor that "We don't want your business", until now. I think CycleMax has some pretty good prices, but that doesn't make up for poor customer service. I would like to ask you, what other vendors offer these filters? I am sure they are available out there, for the same price and probably for much more reasonable shipping cost. If I cannot locate any, I will likely end up making them out of foam. It's an old bike and the parts are getting harder to find. Good vendors are even harder to find!
Coolrunning

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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by WingAdmin » Wed Feb 28, 2018 4:59 pm

coolrunning wrote:
Wed Feb 28, 2018 12:36 pm
Since I read this article, I wanted to change out the cruise and sub filters on my GL1500 Aspencade, and ordered them along with some other parts from CycleMax. A few days later, I noticed my order was cancelled. Assuming the items were out of stock or back-ordered, I called CycleMax to see what happened. I was told by the sales clerk that the owner cancelled my orders because of some dispute in the past. I cannot recall any such dispute, but they would not give me any details. I may have returned something that didn't fit, but why would that be considered a dispute? I have never been told by any vendor that "We don't want your business", until now. I think CycleMax has some pretty good prices, but that doesn't make up for poor customer service. I would like to ask you, what other vendors offer these filters? I am sure they are available out there, for the same price and probably for much more reasonable shipping cost. If I cannot locate any, I will likely end up making them out of foam. It's an old bike and the parts are getting harder to find. Good vendors are even harder to find!
Cyclemax is well known as one of the best vendors on the Internet, with the best customer service.

In any case, make sure you use OPEN CELL foam if you are going to make your own filters. Closed cell foam will not work.

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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by Stew » Fri Apr 06, 2018 10:00 pm

Went to replace the cruise and sub filters this afternoon, took about 90 minutes kinda hustling so I'd finish before it got dark out. The cruise filter was like new - stretchy, pliable, clean and not crumbly in the least so I left that one alone. It seems like soaking the sub filter in oil is what's degrading it so I decided to cut my own from a Briggs & Stratton air filter. I personally have had a mower with one of their filters soaked in oil sitting in the elements being abused and the foam was perfectly good, they apparently have their foam formula figured out pretty good.

I cut it to size, replaced the original sub filter which like everyone else fell to pieces and buttoned everything back up. Easy peasy thanks to this awesome DIY, another thing I can check off the list.


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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by DarthJ » Sun Apr 08, 2018 12:12 pm

Going to be redoing the cruise and sub filters, along with my air filter. I usually take the radio shelter completely off and will again as I'm re routing some cables and need the room. Changing them out now as my wife has a conference (hopefully if it gets approved) and I plan to ride out behind her and her coworkers who will go too. So, always a good idea before a major ride to tackle maintenance. Already got the oil done, will change final drive oil again (why not, lol) Air, cruise, sub filters, and adding LED bulbs to the brake/tail lights.

Other thing I need to do is mount my driving lights with screws (using locktite) as the epoxy didn't hold. Makes me wonder why, if Mother Honda made knock out panels and added the wiring so we can add the lights to our Aspy and Interstate, why the hell didn't they put the mounting points in? Makes no sense.
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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by jandjgoldwing » Sun Apr 08, 2018 1:26 pm

I do routine things like change oil and coolant, before a long ride. I never do more complex maintenance unless I have a week or two to ride locally, just in case something wasn't right with parts or technique.

I'm guessing that Honda didn't build bikes for DIY, so the question about why something like pre-installed brackets can be answered by the bottom line for Honda.

Although not necessarily a fan, my wife bought a new Kawasaki Vulcan. All the options are pre-provisioned. There are color coded insulated wire connectors for anything electrical. There are pre-tapped holes for bolted attachments, like windshields, driving lights and saddle bags. There is space created for additions, without needing to cut or remove other parts. So, Kawasaki created the Vulcan for purchase by DIY folks, like us. We probably pay for this flexibility in the purchase price. It's worth it when a set of driving lights can be installed in less than the time it takes to drink a beer. I almost forgot my curse words when I was "upgrading" her bike.

I hope that Honda reads these posts. Maybe it will start a trend to encourage purchase by the DIY folks.

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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by DarthJ » Sun Apr 08, 2018 3:39 pm

jandjgoldwing wrote:
Sun Apr 08, 2018 1:26 pm
I do routine things like change oil and coolant, before a long ride. I never do more complex maintenance unless I have a week or two to ride locally, just in case something wasn't right with parts or technique.

I'm guessing that Honda didn't build bikes for DIY, so the question about why something like pre-installed brackets can be answered by the bottom line for Honda.

true, but the wiring is already there for it. Tells me they used one harness. And I've got more than a month and a half to iron out issues.
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Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Post by coolrunning » Wed Apr 11, 2018 11:45 am

Stew wrote:
Fri Apr 06, 2018 10:00 pm
Went to replace the cruise and sub filters this afternoon, took about 90 minutes kinda hustling so I'd finish before it got dark out. The cruise filter was like new - stretchy, pliable, clean and not crumbly in the least so I left that one alone. It seems like soaking the sub filter in oil is what's degrading it so I decided to cut my own from a Briggs & Stratton air filter. I personally have had a mower with one of their filters soaked in oil sitting in the elements being abused and the foam was perfectly good, they apparently have their foam formula figured out pretty good.

I cut it to size, replaced the original sub filter which like everyone else fell to pieces and buttoned everything back up. Easy peasy thanks to this awesome DIY, another thing I can check off the list.
img_1705.jpg
What an excellent idea to make filters from filters! I have used the same Briggs & Stratton filter elements for decades before replacing them, and they are designed to be oiled. Thanks for the tip!


Coolrunning

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