How to remove and replace your rear wheel


Step-by-step tutorials on how to maintain and fix your GL1500
Dmofield
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by Dmofield »



I have followed all the steps exactly. I am down to sliding the wheel into position on the splines and torqueing the axle bolt. When I torque the axle bolt the rear wheel tightens up and don't spin freely. I am sure the splines are in place. I have had it off and on numerous times and double checked everything. I have been told to put the caliper back on and bleed the brakes (rebuilt caliper and replaced brakes while I was at it) and then let it run in gear for a while to see if it loosens up. This makes me very nervous. Is this the correct thing to do at this point?



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dingdong
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by dingdong »

Here is a how to on removing and replacing the rear wheel. viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11395

Obviously you have a problem. Don't listen to whoever advised you. If the wheel won't spin freely you have something installed incorrectly.

Dmofield
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by Dmofield »

That link is the exact instructions I used. Everything is together exactly as described. The caliper is still off, so I know the brakes are not dragging. The tire is not rubbing anywhere. The only thing left is the bearings binding. How do I check this, and what is the fix? I did not remove any bearings, and they all look fine.

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BENJEE2112
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by BENJEE2112 »

Hi guys. It's me again......... My rear wheel is on. breaks on. Shocks on. everything torqued to specs. when I was torqueing stuff. I noticed that the swing arms are swingin. entire rear end wobbles sideways about an inch of wiggle. rear is still in the air. But I'm pretty sure that aint supposed too happen. I did change my u-joint and sleeve. I know that bairing that the 17mm bolt has to be in place fore everything to spin likebutter. andit did. I torqued that big 17mm allen to 100lbs.went to the left side. didn.t thinik it was tightening up much but it took the play out out it. then aparently the castle nut thing tightens on to that. because it fell off. so I backed it off enough for the flange nut to go back on it. play is back. Is there a happy place that the left side needs to be?... I JINXED MYSELF WHEN I SAID I WILL BE RIDING TONIGHT.. %&%&*)&$#%^$#

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Corkster52
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by Corkster52 »

I stopped by a friend's house this past Saturday as he was replacing both tires and got stumped on getting the rear tire seated on the beat. The front tire went exactly like a YouTube that he watched without any problems. He and did everything we could think of to get the back tire to hold air enough to pop the tire out to the beads, but after almost 2 hours, and rather exhausted, we gave up and thought maybe his 35 gallon compressor just wasn't putting out enough air to do the job. We headed to town to find a tire shop, but all were closed by that time. I left for home and he started searching the web and, as luck would have it, found another YouTube video that said some have trouble getting the beads to seat so, because the valve stem acts like a check valve and will not allow the rapid volume of air to get in, so you need to remove it. He did that and within about a minute both beads popped right where they needed them and reinstalled the stem to pump the tire up part-way. I felt bad that I had already left so he had to do the rest himself. Fortunately he has a nice air lift.

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WingAdmin
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by WingAdmin »

Corkster52 wrote:
Tue Jun 11, 2019 11:10 am
I stopped by a friend's house this past Saturday as he was replacing both tires and got stumped on getting the rear tire seated on the beat. The front tire went exactly like a YouTube that he watched without any problems. He and did everything we could think of to get the back tire to hold air enough to pop the tire out to the beads, but after almost 2 hours, and rather exhausted, we gave up and thought maybe his 35 gallon compressor just wasn't putting out enough air to do the job. We headed to town to find a tire shop, but all were closed by that time. I left for home and he started searching the web and, as luck would have it, found another YouTube video that said some have trouble getting the beads to seat so, because the valve stem acts like a check valve and will not allow the rapid volume of air to get in, so you need to remove it. He did that and within about a minute both beads popped right where they needed them and reinstalled the stem to pump the tire up part-way. I felt bad that I had already left so he had to do the rest himself. Fortunately he has a nice air lift.
This is correct. You need a large volume of air rushing in all at once. With the valve core in place, it is too restrictive to allow the volume of air required.

However, most air chucks have a valve in them that does not open the chuck valve until it presses against the valve core - removing the valve core means you can't get any air out of the chuck.

From my How to change your tires article:

I use these clip-on valve chucks - however I use a pair of needle nose pliers to rip out the valve actuating piece in the middle of them. Basically you want to get as much air into the tire as fast as you can. There is no valve core in the valve stem to actuate, so the actuator doesn't need to be there obstructing airflow. I clip it to the valve stem, then hook up the air compressor to blast air into the tire. As the tire inflates, it pushes outwards, sliding the tire bead out toward the rim (which is why we need the lubricant). As the bead contacts the rim, you will hear a loud bang - one for each side of the tire.

Image

If the bead doesn't seat right away, I will unclip the hose and let the tire deflate, check where it has not seated, apply a bit more lubricant, and try again.

6Blackie6
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by 6Blackie6 »

Great post! Followed all instructions and everything went smoothly until I tried to remove the wheel. It is stuck on the last 2 pins and seems like there's no room to get them out. The rotor is against the swingarm on left side and the last 2 pins are held in by the wheel flange on the right. Am I missing something here? Was I supposed to remove the rotor? Will the final drive need to be removed? Maybe I misread a step or 2 but I went back and tried to re read it... any help would be appreciated.

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WingAdmin
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by WingAdmin »

6Blackie6 wrote:
Tue Jul 16, 2019 7:54 am
Great post! Followed all instructions and everything went smoothly until I tried to remove the wheel. It is stuck on the last 2 pins and seems like there's no room to get them out. The rotor is against the swingarm on left side and the last 2 pins are held in by the wheel flange on the right. Am I missing something here? Was I supposed to remove the rotor? Will the final drive need to be removed? Maybe I misread a step or 2 but I went back and tried to re read it... any help would be appreciated.
Keep in mind that the pins on the "spider" can be pushed in and out of the wheel hub. If it is not fully seated into the wheel hub, there won't be enough clearance between the swingarm and the final drive to get the wheel out. Make sure the pins of the spider are pushed all the way in.

Image

Image

6Blackie6
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by 6Blackie6 »

Thanks for the quick reply! I just realized that the pins etc. have to stay with the wheel. Mine stayed on the final drive side. I guess I'll have to wrestle it back on somehow and try to pry it off with the hub.

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DenverWinger
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by DenverWinger »

You can let all the air out of the tire to get a little more clearance, too.
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫ :(
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪ :shock:

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Jabberwokki
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by Jabberwokki »

I know this post has been around for awhile but I have to give a big “Thank you!” To Wing Admin for the step by step.
It was my first time replacing a tire on one of these but-amazingly-except for a couple of add on features that had to be moved around the whole process worked and I test rode tonight with my new Dunlop 4’s and everything shook out well.
It’s kind of daunting to have to put so much back together and then test with the idea being you won’t have to take it apart again.
BTW also broke out his (Wing Admin) articles on gear oil change and brake pad replacement to do those jobs as well while I was in there.
Nice set of complete documents.
Thank you everyone who adds to this knowledge base.
{If I seem lost in thought with a slight grin on my face I am probably planning my next ride or reliving a previous one}

BIMWing
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by BIMWing »

I just started this process, took me two hours and a trip to the hardware store to finally get the saddle bags off, the phillips head screws hilding the chrome trim across the back stripped out so i had to buy a screw exreactor (my new favorite tool now). My 94 Aspencade has a tow hitch so im wondering do i have to disassemble the hitch and frame to get the wheel out? Seems I would have to Jack it up fairly high if not..
While I have the wheels off for new tires I'm also doing brakes, drive oil and Molly. Anything else I should while it's all apart, possibly new bearings for the front?. Thanks for the step by step, probably would not have attempted this otherwise.

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BENJEE2112
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by BENJEE2112 »

Yes. you need to take the hitch off. Just remember when you are removing the tire. Separate the wheel from the hub before dropping it down. Mine dropped down and got jammed stuck. I had a hell of a time getting it off. you have to pull it to the left to get it off the hub before there will be enough clearance to drop it down. I say do what you have planned but... IF IT AIN'T BROKE. DON'T FIX IT. When you are torqueing the drive shaft back on. Don't force anything. It needs to be real close to together before tightening it. I crancked on mine to pull it in the rest of the way.(BAD IDEA). I jammed the u joint. Making me change that too. (DUUUUU) The next time I change my rear tire. I'm going to do the LIFT METHOD. ALL YOU DO IS REMOVE THE AXAUST AND SHOCKS AND USE A PULLY MOUNTED TO THE CEILING. THE SADDLE BAGS AND TRUNK ALL MOVE UP AND OUT THE WAY TOGETHER. Sucks when you have to buy new tools. But it's great to have more new tools. (GOOD LUCK)

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BENJEE2112
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by BENJEE2112 »

When you get the tire off. Do yourself and your rim a favor. Take it to a bike shop and let them change it over. The rear tire is thick and really hard to get off and on the rim. I mangled my rim doing it. It's amazing it is holding the bead/air. I will never do it again. I will gladly pay someone $50 to do it next time.

BIMWing
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by BIMWing »

Great, thanks for the reply and advice!
It looks like my rear brake pads aren't too bad but I'll probably replace them anyway as I already bought new pads.
Looking forward to getting new tires on!

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WingAdmin
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Re: How to remove and replace your rear wheel

Post by WingAdmin »

BIMWing wrote:
Tue Aug 11, 2020 6:08 pm
I just started this process, took me two hours and a trip to the hardware store to finally get the saddle bags off, the phillips head screws hilding the chrome trim across the back stripped out so i had to buy a screw exreactor (my new favorite tool now). My 94 Aspencade has a tow hitch so im wondering do i have to disassemble the hitch and frame to get the wheel out? Seems I would have to Jack it up fairly high if not..
While I have the wheels off for new tires I'm also doing brakes, drive oil and Molly. Anything else I should while it's all apart, possibly new bearings for the front?. Thanks for the step by step, probably would not have attempted this otherwise.
The reason those phillips head screws stripped out is because they are not phillips - they are JIS. Using a philips screwdriver on JIS screws will generally have the results you just experienced.

You need JIS screwdrivers to work on Japanese vehicles: https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora- ... B000TG8OTY

Have a read through this: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=20082



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