1500 mixture testing (lean or rich?)


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ct1500
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1500 mixture testing (lean or rich?)

Post by ct1500 »



Too much time on my hands recently waiting on parts and came up with a simple solution for checking mixture settings. All air going into the carburetors enters at the intake in front of box on left side under the top filler with a hot engine. With a cold engine air is brought up from headers by way of the hot air door inside of intake. Bike on center stand as always if equipped and warmed up.

Cut a piece of cardboard 3-1/4"h x 4"w and use it as a shutter up against the intake opening. By limiting airflow we can artificially richen the mixture and any increase in RPM's confirms a lean condition. Starting at the front slowly slide cardboard back closing off intake opening. If the engine is running rich any amount of cardboard in front of intake will decrease RPM's. If the engine is dead nuts on at idle (mixture wise) a 3/4 blockage will make the engine begin to stumble. Will work at all RPM's.

The cardboard will seal the entire intake opening blocking all airflow quickly killing engine. If the engine continues to run with full blockage air is being drawn in elsewhere, likely the hot air door vacuum temperature system malfunction or missing hoses on bottom of air box. Check that the clip is secured bottom left of picture holding intake to air box with a good seal. :)

And some more testing which in most instances should be done first.

The shade tree mechanics way to engine diagnosis:

Will start off on the premise of an otherwise well running and properly maintained engine and has developed a driveability concern. Filters and plugs have been changed at regular intervals. This is a first check of basic systems that anyone can do.

First off is to check the ignition system. With the bike warmed up and idling remove and replace one plug wire at a time from the spark plugs. What we want to observe here is a uniform idle RPM drop when the wire is removed providing no ignition to that cylinder. At this same time we are also testing the plug wires. While slowly removing the wire from plug you will hear a distinct snapping noise of the spark jumping to the plug. It should jump from 1/2-1 inch, this tells us the wires are good with no excess resistance. In rare cases the plug will only fire with the wire partly disconnected adding RPM and is likely due to a fouled plug.

Next up is to remove the spark plugs noting their condition and location within the engine. Note the condition of the plugs below which were taken from my 1500 when acquired with no driveability concerns except a release start type of turning over. Plug gaps were on the wide side. These could have been original twenty two year old plugs as the bike had only thirty thousand on the odometer and I was still going through it with frequent starts and idling. Note the two inner plugs (cyls.3&4) look like they have been running slightly hotter or leaner than the others. This is due in part because inner cylinders on an engine will typically run hotter than the ones on the corners. Note these same cylinders are the ones the vacuum hoses are attached to in the runners which could also contribute to the slight difference. All white or all black plugs on one side usually indicate carburetor problems. If you suspect a bad plug you can swap it with another and repeat to see if the problem follows the plug.

When pulling plug wires and none to little RPM drop we must then find if it is lean, rich or compression related.

A proper looking spark plug.
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alca
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Joined: Thu Apr 09, 2020 7:52 am
Location: Surrey,England
Motorcycle: 1991 Goldwing GL1500 Trike

Re: 1500 mixture testing (lean or rich?)

Post by alca »

Hi All

I know this is an old thread, but thought it best to post this way then you would know what I am on about,
cl1500 wrote this article on a way to check for rich running.

I tried to check my 1991 GL1500 for running rich, but when I tried to do this I could not get the revs to stay stable, after letting the engine warm up to operating temperature I tried to adjust the idle speed to 850rpm.
I get to 750rpm but then it jumps to 1250rpm, if I try to increase a little to 850rpm it jumps to 1250rpm with just a touch on the screw, I cannot get any speed range between 750 & 1250 by the adjustment at all.
If I leave it to run on idle at 750rpm it will jump to 1250rpm and then back to 750 without touching anything, anybody any ideas where I should look to try and correct this problem or what could be doing this.
many thanks
Alan
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HandymanHerb
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Location: Orlando,Fl
Motorcycle: 1997 GL 1500 SE Aspencade

Re: 1500 mixture testing (lean or rich?)

Post by HandymanHerb »

My 97 does the same and idles rich enough that everyone tells me about it
Jenneverett1
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Joined: Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:21 pm
Location: Bella Vista, Arkansas
Motorcycle: 1995 GL1500 SE/A/I

Re: 1500 mixture testing (lean or rich?)

Post by Jenneverett1 »

Mine had the surging issue and I pulled the carbs to find a few holes in a slide diaphragm... saber cycle has replacement parts at the best cost I found.
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WingAdmin
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Re: 1500 mixture testing (lean or rich?)

Post by WingAdmin »

Jenneverett1 wrote: Tue Jun 09, 2020 11:06 am Mine had the surging issue and I pulled the carbs to find a few holes in a slide diaphragm... saber cycle has replacement parts at the best cost I found.
Saber Cycle has the lowest price because they have the crappiest parts and worst ever customer service.

Do NOT use Saber Cycle diaphragms on your 1500, we had another member here who tried, and the diaphragms were so awful the bike wouldn't run.

Read this before wasting your money with Saber Cycle: /Vendors/Saber-Cycle_880


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