Clutch Slave Cylinder overhaul

[wiredgeorge]

I was on my way to lunch after church on our 1997 GL1500A Roadsmith trike. Shifting was growing progressively harder and when I had to stop, the trike wanted to creep. I knew immediately that I had a clutch issue. After lunch, I opened the master cylinder and it was almost empty. I refilled and bled using an article here on this site for guidance after purchasing a MityVac. It was a snap and the clutch worked perfect but I knew that the fluid must be going somewhere. So I decided to rebuild the clutch slave unit.

Of course, the first issue was getting the trike up high enough to get underneath. I won't bore you with those details but once up in the air, here is what I did:

Someone had mentioned it might be dripping out a small relief hole... that is EXACTLY what it was doing. Just couldn't see the dripping which was mostly dry until the trike was up in the air. The bottom of the clutch cover was covered in old but mostly dry brake fluid. The hardest of this whole job is cleaning the old brake sludge out of the opening where the slave cylinder seats. The old brake stuff had turned to gel and then gotten real dirty.

Here is what you do. FIRST (after getting your trike or bike lifted where you can get under) loosen the M6 bolt that holds the pipe with the bleed fitting. Then remove the M8 banjo bolt where the clutch line comes down from the lever. It is pretty tight as it holds a couple crush washers and is easier to loosen before removing the slave cylinder. You might want to buy some new crush washers to be professional but I re-used mine since I had not bought them. I think they are a standard auto parts item (M8 crush washers). Then remove the three bolts holding the slave cylinder. It doesn't just come loose... you have to squeeze the clutch lever a couple times. Have a drip pan under the slave cylinder and have some rags handy. Once the piston pushes out the slave cylinder, it comes right out. Take it to a bench, clean it and install the new rebuild kit. It is K&L P/N 32-0150. It includes the small seal that goes around the piston, the larger seal that goes around the main body, a replacement spring and a new dust cap for the bleed valve. To be honest the seal in the clutch cover that the piston fits into in the clutch cover looked pretty beat up. It is Honda P/N 91204-MB0-013 Oil Seal (8x25x8) (Arai). If doing the job again, I would not only have four new crush washers (2 for the oil pipe that connects to the bleed valve and 2 for the oil line coming down from the clutch master cylinder) AND the clutch cover oil seal. It would not be hard to remove or replace as it is just pressed into place. Install the seals with some brake fluid to lube them. I used DOT 4 as called for. Refit the parts as you took them off and drop the trike/bike and bleed the master cylinder. I used my MityVac and it took about 5 minutes. I will ride the trike a bit then stick a mirror down below the clutch cover to see if there are any new signs of brake fluid on the bottom of the cover.

[wiredgeorge]

Made one mistake... the banjo crush washers needed are M10; not M8. Sorry.

[goldwing8754]

If you take the banjo fitting loose first, how are you going to use the clutch to push out the slave?

[Corkster52]

I believe I have a slave issue as well. Will be watching this thread.

[zandersn]

So what is the secret to removing the oil seal? Mine was bad too, but now it is really tore up from trying to get it out and after an hour or more, I don't think I have begun to move it.