How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)


Step-by-step tutorials on how to maintain and fix your GL1500
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Swagonmaster
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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by Swagonmaster »



kiptap, I can feel your pain, that boot replacement can be something that you don't want your kids to hear you talking about. :evil: I will give one recommendation, warm the rubber boot! I am a retired auto tech so I thought it wouldn't be too hard to do. Wrong! After several frustrating hours of trying I brought the boot indoors and put it on the hot air register (December you know) and got it hot. When I took it out to the garage for another round I couldn't believe how much easier it was to go on! Actually I thought that I had it on wrong, it couldn't have gone on that easy!
Secondly, if your are having trouble splinning the driveshaft into the u joint, take the driven flange/spider and turn the final drive and therefore the driveshaft while installing the shaft.


Try to learn from the mistakes of others..... you won't live long enough to make them all yourself!

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Swagonmaster
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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by Swagonmaster »

Another thing, I replaced the u joint because of a vibration above about 60 mph. As it turned out the joint was ok, the problem was the rubber dampers in the rear wheel. Oh well, live and learn.
Try to learn from the mistakes of others..... you won't live long enough to make them all yourself!

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Erdeniz Umman
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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by Erdeniz Umman »

One more recommendation for the boot replacement could be removing the wires and brake light switch out of the way.

So you can easily reach the 3 ears of the boot and install it in 5 minutes. No pain anymore.

Jetfighter3
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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by Jetfighter3 »

Two things, first you say you should not apply grease on the five pin configuration , but my Honda Manual says too. Do you know something Honda doesn't or at least at the time of the publication of the manual? Also in one of the photos of the five pin config. it appears there is grease on the pins? Could you get back to me on this, I'm about to put her back together. And 2nd, for those of you about to do this chore I used Aerospace 303 protectint on the boot , sprayed it down stuck it in a plastic bag for 24 hours and when I was ready to install it , it only took about 5 min. went on so easy! and the boot should last for some time with the 303 on it. ( check it out on youtube)

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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by MikeB »

According to The Wrench, published by Honda America to Honda technicians, the 5 pin drive flange should not be lubricated.
Only lube the 6 pin drive flange pins.


As to the use of the 303 protectant, it really isn't all that necessary. It is probably a good thing because it makes it slippery but not a necessary step. Silicone spray did the trick for me.
The boots that I have seen or heard about have not failed due from deterioration or exposure to the elements. How I have seen or heard of them failing is from contact with the universal joint. On my 1999 and 1998 GL1500, that was the case. Other than the damage from the universal joint, the rubber was sound.

An article in Wing World magazine confirms this information concerning the flange pins.
It is located here: http://archives.wingworldmag.com/januar ... cally.html
MikeB
Tacoma, WA, USA

Jetfighter3
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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by Jetfighter3 »

Great info! Do you know where we can get all the amendments to the out dated information we get from our manuals? Some thing like we are discussing should be available to the home mechanic , I was ready to put lube on the pins but questioned it when seeing post. Had I not looked I would have made that mistake.

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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by MikeB »

Unfortunately, I do not have a source for any of the outdated info.
As Stu Oltman said, the GWRRA tech department has a pile of info but I don't know how to get it published.
Perhaps someone here can provide a source.
MikeB
Tacoma, WA, USA

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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by WingAdmin »

My Honda Service Manual says the exact same thing:

Image

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Erdeniz Umman
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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by Erdeniz Umman »

I think the confusion is because of the unupdated picture on page 15-14 of the service manual.
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BENJEE2112
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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by BENJEE2112 »

To anyone like me needing to do this. Today I went in a mission to find the 17MM allan socket driver. after all the box stores and hardware stores I was about to give up. But just for the heck of it. I stopped at our NEW TO MY AREA (woo-hooo) Harbor Freight Store. Found the entire set for $13.89 I haven't abused it yet. But I was expecting to pay around $20 just for the one 17mm. this is 4-17mm. I'll let you know if my impact gun or breaker bar kills it or cranks it. they are shiny chrome. Just dark in my office rite now.



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BENJEE2112
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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by BENJEE2112 »

I just ordered my new u-joint and boot From Partzilla $160.00 for both. I damaged my u-joint trying to put the final drive back on. I somehow jammed it stuck. I don't do anything half way. Including screwing stuff up. I hope I didn't hurt anything else. I guess I'll find out when it's all back together. After looking around I saw that My Boot was dry rotted. The bike has over 100,000, now it will have new joints and socks. This is what I saw when I took it back off.



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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by pocketchange »

Jetfighter3 wrote:
Tue Feb 05, 2019 12:03 am
Two things, first you say you should not apply grease on the five pin configuration , but my Honda Manual says too. Do you know something Honda doesn't or at least at the time of the publication of the manual? Also in one of the photos of the five pin config. it appears there is grease on the pins? Could you get back to me on this, I'm about to put her back together. And 2nd, for those of you about to do this chore I used Aerospace 303 protectint on the boot , sprayed it down stuck it in a plastic bag for 24 hours and when I was ready to install it , it only took about 5 min. went on so easy! and the boot should last for some time with the 303 on it. ( check it out on youtube)
Aero 303='s the best + some heat ='s the easiest method to replacing a boot.. pc

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BENJEE2112
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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by BENJEE2112 »

I had to rack my brain a little to remember why it said the 5 points studs should not use grease. It is because of metal electrolysis accurse do to steal verses aluminum. I think the grease makes a connection like water and wires. I got my u-joint boot on pretty easily. I've heard about that Aerospace 303 protectant from my Kayak buddies. They rave about it's' many uses on plastic and rubber. I didn't use anything on mine. I figure any florigen topical product will eventually either dry out or be a dust/dirt/grease magnet.

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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by CrystalPistol »

kiptap wrote:
Sun Jan 15, 2017 6:01 pm
MikeB wrote:What I left out of the post was I sprayed a little silicone on the inside of the boot to help slipping it over the swingarm.
How are you keeping one side from coming off while pulling the other side over the lip. Right now I have the side nearest the swingarm on first with about half of the bottom and half of the top, but when I go to pull the other side, those sides just pop off. I'm going to see if I can get someone to hold the installed sides on while I work on pulling the boot on the other side. I'll try silicone, heck I'll try anything, thanks. I'm sure there's a great Trojan vs girth joke in here somewhere.

FYI for anyone wondering, here is a photo of the two U-Joints side by side, the one on the left is a reinforced in vital areas and appears to be flame hardened the old one appears to be cast. My u-joint was not bad looking, but its cheap insurance to replace it. The boot has proven to be the most difficult thing I have encountered on these "how-to's", but it too will yield.
u-joints.jpg
kiptap
Both are forged, Valk joint just has more meat.
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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by BENJEE2112 »

I used curved extended needle nose plyers to push both sides on at the same time. but little by little. Your pic didn't load. I spit on the casing and the boot edge. Went rite on

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Swagonmaster
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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by Swagonmaster »

If you want the boot to just about fall on try heating it. Winter is your friend, just put it over the hot air register for a few minutes and it will stretch like a rubber band.
Try to learn from the mistakes of others..... you won't live long enough to make them all yourself!

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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by WingAdmin »

Swagonmaster wrote:
Sat Feb 01, 2020 6:18 pm
If you want the boot to just about fall on try heating it. Winter is your friend, just put it over the hot air register for a few minutes and it will stretch like a rubber band.
The same is true for pretty much any rubber piece. I rebuilt a clutch master recently in the cold, and when I was stretching the seal over the piston...SNAP! It broke. Foul language occurred, I waited a few days for another entire rebuild kit (you can't buy just the seal), and this time I heated it up first by dunking it in hot water. It easily stretched and fit into place.

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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by thebruce »

I just took a quick read through this thread as I needed the part numbers for the yoke assembly and boot as mine are needing replacement. Frigging marvelous writeup.

If I could contribute my $.02...

I didn't notice this mentioned before:
The disconnection of the negative battery cable was fairly far down the order of operations for this procedure.

As much as safety is a little in-your-face of late, the disconnection of the negative terminal should be among the first things done on fairly much any procedure to avoid serious death, injury or damage to the bike... takes like no time at all, unfortunately you will have to reset your clock 🕠

Thanks to WingAdmin for the many super-groovy DIY articles here. And the administration.
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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by BENJEE2112 »

Have fun. Don't forget to disconnect or battery (FIRST)

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Re: How to replace your universal joint (and driveshaft)

Post by CrystalPistol »

I know, guy posted in 2017, but maybe he is still wondering?
skywatcher67 wrote:
Sat Jun 24, 2017 4:26 pm
The article on replacing the ujoint on the gl 1500 is excellent. Does anyone know where I can get an article on how to replace the ujoint on a gl1500 she TRIKE? Lehman.
Jack the left rear wheel maybe 6 inches so trike leans towards the right, set a jack stand under the axle. Put trike in neutral, no parking brake if it has one as you want to be able to rotate the raised left rear tire & drive shaft. Just take the 4 nuts off the rear U-joint retaining U-bolts, Pry the rear U-joint forward out of the rear yoke, keep the bearing caps on the cross trunions, ease it down, pull straight out to rear. The front U-joint will likely stay on the driveshaft. The Lehman swing arm tube or tunnel is short and open and will let the front U-joint pass easily.

Biggest thing is to lube & put the front U-joint in proper phase before reinstalling. Also, don't overtighten those 4 nuts at rear U-joint retainers.


Once assembled, it helps to tie a cord or zip a tie between rear and front U-joint until it's in place, then cut the cord & remove. View from beneath, mine is no longer rusty, was just surface rust that cleaned off, then I painted it.




Make Courtesy your "Code of the Road" …

… & Have a Safe Trip!
:)

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