How to make your own steering yoke bottom bearing pulling tool

[wingdings]

Hi - folks !! - Just in the process of rebuilding the steering head bearings on my GL - 1989 k - wing - noticed the price of a pulling tool to remove the bottom bearing some £100 pounds or more - not good .

So I decided to make my own instead using 50mm dia steel tubing and some 25mm dia for the handle - so long as you can weld ( or have a good mate to do the welding for you ) - you should be fine to make this tool - it works very much like a cork screw and pulls the bearing from the bottom ,while you wind down the handle from the top - its a lot better then knocking the hell out of the Yoke too ..

Tools - list -

1) cut off saw .

2) welder

3) drill .

4) 5.5mm drill bit .

5) 10mm drill bit

6) 6mm dia tap and wrench .

7) half round file .

8) Centre punch

9) 2 Lbs hammer .

10) 2"inch paint brush .

Materials list -

1) 1 - off - 50mm - steel tubing ( cut to size 20" inch's long and cut square both ends ) .

2) 1- off - 25mm - steel tubing ( cut to size 16"inch's long and centre punched in the middle at 8"inch's ) .

3) 1- off - 10mm threaded rod ( cut to size 24" inch's long - with nuts to suit ) or better still use Trapezoidal ACME threaded steel bar Right
hand thread TR10 and nuts to suit .

4) 8- off- nuts to suit 10mm threaded rod or Trapezoidal ACME threaded steel nuts .

5) 20- off - M6 STAINLESS STEEL A2 DIN 916 SOCKET SET CUP POINT GRUB SCREWS ALLEN BW .

6) 5 - off - 50mm penny washers mild steel ( may need to drill out hole to take 10mm threaded rod .) or could use 5mm sheet steel cut out
round and filed flush to the edge of the tube .

7) 4 -off - 40mm penny washers mild steel . ( 2 needed - 2 for spares ).

8) 10 - off - 40mm BLACK NEOPRENE RUBBER PENNY WASHERS M10 ( 1-needed - 9 for spares ) .

9) 1 - off - Can of - metal paint - ( Colour of your own choice ) .

Method -

Start by measuring the length and thickness of the yoke - Then cut the 50mm steel tubing to size - ensure both ends are cut square and you have left enough length on the tube to ensure it will both fit over the yoke tube and reach to the bottom of the yoke and over the bearing and leave enough for the threaded bar to both wind back on and wind onto a good size would be about 20inch's however always best to check this for your model year as I have learned that on wings not all parts are the same - So one size may not fit all so be aware of that .

Having arrived at the correct size - cut the tube accordingly and then file off any fash / burrs/ sharp edges left behind after cutting .
Next - take the tube and place it in a vice just tight enough to hold it while you mark out the holes and center punch them - you will need 8 holes dilled into the tube at distances to ensure that all 8 hole's are spaced equally apart and are in line too - say 15-20mm from the end of the tube - bear in mind you want enough meat on the end of the tubes as this is where you will be pulling from once the grub screws are going to be locked onto the back of the bearing cage once you have torn out the roller bearing cage leaving the lip of the old race behind .

Next - Drill out all the 8 holes using a 5.5mm drill bit - try to keep them all level and as up right as possible !! .. this will help get a better grip for the grub screws so do your upmost to make sure of this . Once this is all done run a half round file down the inside of the tube to remove any burrs or fash .

Next - Take a 6mm machine tap dia and thread out each hole in turn all 8 of them again make sure you keep them upright and level then take a 6mm grub screw and check for fit in each of the tapped out holes . Again take the half round file and run round the inside of the tube to get rid of any burrs .

Now - Cut your threaded bar to length - I cut mine at 24" inchs - that gave me a 4inch stick out of the end of the tube - Enough to get a two 17mm spanners on later to tighten up the two 40mm penny washers and the BLACK NEOPRENE RUBBER PENNY WASHER 40mm - Its just leaving enough length on it so you can also service the tool as well .

Next - Cap off the other end of the tube - This can be done in either two ways - method 1)- Using - 50mm penny washers made up to a thickness of 5mm - Method here is to stack on top of each other place a small length of - off cut threaded bar though all of them then bolt all together and place a tack weld on the edges of all 5 washers until they are all welded to each other - remove the nut from the bottom ( otherwise you won't get it out later on when you have welded all round the washers and fixed them to the tube !!! ) .

Place the tube and place upright in a vice put the welded washers on top of the end of the pipe and take the off cut threaded bar with the nut on the end tack weld the welded washers to the tube ensuring that the welded washers fit snugly all round and are centered to the middle of the tube and not lop sided in any way - if all good tack weld into position - then tack weld the 17mm nut into position as well - Check to see all is level and square - if all good fully weld all tacked parts into position and remove the off cut of threaded bar once the welds are cleaned and dressed up leave to cool off .

Method 2 -

Take a 5mm thick sheet of steel draw a 50mm circle round the 5mm tube - then find the centre -mark out the centre and centre punch it cut out the circle and place the circle in a drill vice - drill out the hole using a 10mm dill bit - once done place on top of the tube using and following the above method 1) make sure it sits centre and tack weld and then fully weld into position following the above method 1) .

Next - Take the 24"inch 10mm- steel threaded bar - Place a nut on one end thread it up enough to take two 40mm washers and one 40mm
rubber washer and a nut at the end - Take two 17mm spanners and fully tighten up !! . ( The rubber is to pad out the top of yoke thread
as you screw down onto it to stop it getting damaged ).

Once the 50mm tube is cooled down - thread the bar up threw the tube and thread threw onto the nut - once you can see the thread - say 4inch - threw - carry on winding back - so the 40mm washers and nut at the bottom are well up past the 6mm threaded holes - when this is done - place a nut on top of the threaded bar and run it down -20mm - Spray anti splatter onto the threaded bar at the top of the capped off end of the tool or just use a bit of oil it's just to stop the threads getting clogged up when you weld the handle on .
right

Next - Take the 25mm tube - Cut a length off at 16"inch's - mark the middle off at 8"inch's - Place in a vice and centre punch the tube then drill out the hole using a 10mm drill ensuring the drill is kept upright and centred .

Place - The 10mm threaded rod end into the 10mm hole you just drilled in the pipe - keeping the whole thing as upright and straight as
possible and centered - Tack weld the nut to the 25mm tube then check to see if anything has moved - if all is good - full weld both
nut to the tube and the thread to the nut - if done right - 1- inch of weld will take one ton to break it !!... so well enough for what we
doing here Yes folks ??..

Lastly - Place all the 6mm x 20mm grub screws into there holes - Then paint with the colour of your own choice -

There you have it and it did not cost you a £100 either !!!

[wingdings]

Hi - folks !! - Just in the process of rebuilding the steering head bearings on my GL - 1989 k - wing - noticed the price of a bearing driving tool to drive down the bottom yoke bearing - They range from - £50 to 100 pounds in the UK and for something that you may only use once or maybe twice while you own the bike the price to me does not seem to justify the purchase price .

This will be my third how to - On steering stem replacement - tools and how to make your own and save big bucks on shop bought ones - if you do decide to make your own tools as I have done -

Please - click on the following links to make the other steering tools in this series -

viewtopic.php?f=14&p=219808#p219808

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=36420

Ok - How to make your own steering yoke bottom bearing driving tool .

The tool is made from 40mm exhaust pipe thin wall type - this was because I only wanted the tool to hit the inner race surface of the bearing not the outer one as this would damage the bearing and make it scrap .

It works by having the tube longer than the length of the yoke tube - you slip it over the top of the yoke tube once you have placed both the bearing and 50mm jublie clip in place - The jublee clip is placed round the bottom of the tube just tight enough to pull the petals in to the yoke stem it is there to stop the petals from splaying out while you hit the top of the tool with a rubber hammer . The advantage to this tool is you are hitting the bottom bearing on all four points of contact so get a even drive down as you hit the tool with the rubber hammer . there by seating the bearing square as you hit it on all four points and drive the bearing home ..

Tools list :-
1) mig welder ( set to lowest settings ).

2) cut off saw .

3) 5mm drill bit .

4) electric drill .

5) 1mm thin cutting disc 100mm - to suit 100mm grinder ( 4inch ) .

6) 300mm ruler .

7) black marker pen .

8) steel tape measure .

9) half round hand file.

Cut list :-

1) 1)- off 40mm exhaust pipe - (Cut to 500mm or 20"inchs trimmed square both ends !! ) .

2) 1) - off - 50mm penny washer .

3) 1)- off - 50mm jublee clip

Method :-

Start by measuring the length and thickness of the yoke stem - This is to determine the length and the diameter of the tube needed for the tool in my case it was 40mm steel exhaust tubing cut to size - ensure both ends are cut square and you have left enough length on the tube to ensure it will both fit over the yoke tube and reach to the bottom of the yoke and over onto the bearing . A good size would be about 20inch's however always best to check this for your model year as I have learned that on wings not all parts are the same - So one size may not fit all so be aware of that .

Next - You will need to make up a cardboard template up - a corn flake box is ideal for this -

Take a tape measure - and measure the circumference of the tube you are using to make up the tool ( in my case I was using 40mm tube - which when I ran a tape round it came out at 140mm - you then divide this by 4 - which will give you 35mm and will also divide the tube into 4 equal segments ( see pic below ) . Half again the 35mm to find the centre which is 17.5 mm - Then mark from this centre line 12.5mm either side this will help you make the bottom part of the petals - The length of the petals is 90mm .

Next - with the template now marked out on the cardboard cut out the template - you just made up - wrap round one end of the tube place a piece of sellotape a round the middle just to hold the middle together while you transfer the markings over to the tube ( see pic below ) .

Next - With all the marking out done on the tube place the tube in a vice and centre punch 4 times around the four sides ( see pic above ) then drill out using a 5mm drill bit ( this is to give the petals more flex - so you can pull them in better once you have the hose clip round them at the bottom ) .

Next - Take your 100mm grinder with the 100mm - 1mm thin cutting disc installed make the four cuts down the tube and then nick out the bottom edges to make the petals to point at 25mm ( see pic below ) .

Next - Take a half round file and file and remove all fash and burr's from the inside and out side of the tube take your time and make a good job of this !!! ...

Next - Capping off the end of the tube - Take the tube and a 50mm penny washer over to a flat work surface - I used the top of my vice - Place the washer on the bottom - then place the tube on top - make sure it is placed even all round then take your mig welder ( set on the low power setting ) and tack weld the washer to the tube - Once this is done fully weld all round - put a good bead weld on this then grind and dress the weld till it is smooth all round . ( see pic below )

Next - run a half round file - all over the tool both inside and out - once smooth - paint with a good metal paint to the colour of your own choice - Then grab a beer - there you go !! " you've just made yourself a bearing seating tool " - For penny's not a hundred pounds ...

[wingdings]

Hi - Folks - here are some pics - of the tool in action !!! - and some instructions on how to use also ....

Once you have got the yoke and the forks out - place the front wheel axle bar back into the forks this will help you keep the tool and forks stable .

Next - Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the top of the needle race in four places - It should then come away easy - leaving just the race bearing behind - This is the bit we want - as this is where the grub screws will bite onto the lip of the race bearing .

Next - with the needle race cage now removed spray some W-D 40 pen - oil down and around the bearing race let it soak in then smear some
grease around the yoke stem .

Next - get the tool ready - wind back the handle until it fits all the way and over the bottom bearing race - then using a tee handle hex key go round all 8 grub screws tightening them up in oppersite pairs trying to ensure that they all look the same length as this will also indicate that you are centred correctly over the bearing too , what you don't want is to be pulling the bearing side-way's - because you have wound the grub screws in to much on one side . Also place either gaffer tape or insulation tape around the top of the yoke threads just to protect them - best to be safe hear - saves a world of pain later those threads are very fine !!..

Next - With the grub screws now tightened down start to wind down the handle down until it begins to bite !! - keep turning - you will start feel the bearing lifting as it is pulled away from the yoke stem ( see pic below ) .

Next - remove the tool along with the race bearing casing - Then undo the grub screws - " well done - grab a beer you just removed that bottom yoke bearing - No - knocking - No - swearing - No - damage to the Yoke or the stem either ... and for once your not F.R.O - lol ..

[wingdings]

Hi- folks - just had to modify the tool a little this morning !! a friend of mine borrowed the tool off me last night - he bought it back this morning - he had some how managed to wind the nut down on the thread and loose the nut off the end too !!

Any way's - This is how I solved the problem - And modify the tool -

1) Weld the 17mm - back nut to the thread -( see pic below ) This should now stop any movement and any back pushing down the thread once the tool bites .

2) Replace the 40mm rubber washer - and also place a 30mm steel penny washer over the top and lastly place a 17mm nut on the end and tighten down as much as possible - I added the 30mm washer to stop the 40mm rubber washer being torn up - the only thing you must do now is place plenty of electric tape around the top of the yoke threads to protect them and pad them out a bit .. Job done !! tool now modified ...

[wingdings]

Hi - folks - Just modified - This tool a little - This morning - The one I made first off was for my friends - ATV - I went to use it this morning and found - I had a problem with it - it would not pull the petals in enough to the 30mm yoke tube - after a bit of swearing - I figured out a solution - turn the four petals into eight !! - and divide the tube into 8 parts instead of the current 4 parts and four petals .

This also had the effect of reducing the diameter of the tube by another 4mm - how you may ask ?? - easy - the tube started out at 40mm - you made four cuts in it 1mm thickness on each cut - therefore - the tube when now squeezed together with the hose clip now measures 36mm - So by placing another 4cuts - That brought it down to 32mm - close enough !! - yes ...

So - change - the four petals into eight - drill 8 holes instead of four - make eight cuts instead of four

Once the marking out was done - and another four holes were drilled and the extra - cuts down the tube four of those by the way - the tool now works a treat - see pics below -

One thing I will say is before you use the tool grease like mad around both the bottom of the yoke stem - where the new race is going and inside the new bearing as well it all helps it slide in as you knock the bearing down - also check when tighten the jublee hose clip that you are tight down to the yoke stem and check the petals on the tool are all closed up around the inner race of the bearing - you don't want to be hitting the outer edge where the bearing cage sits - this will knacker the thing before you even start - so defo - check to make sure .. before you start hitting the tool - like the old saying goes - measure twice - cut once - it just takes a minute to do ...