. So I decided to make my own instead using 50mm dia steel tubing and some 25mm dia for the handle - so long as you can weld ( or have a good mate to do the welding for you ) - you should be fine to make this tool - it works very much like a cork screw and pulls the bearing from the bottom ,while you wind down the handle from the top - its a lot better then knocking the hell out of the Yoke too ..
Tools - list -
1) cut off saw .
2) welder
3) drill .
4) 5.5mm drill bit .
5) 10mm drill bit
6) 6mm dia tap and wrench .
7) half round file .
8) Centre punch
9) 2 Lbs hammer .
10) 2"inch paint brush .
Materials list -
1) 1 - off - 50mm - steel tubing ( cut to size 20" inch's long and cut square both ends ) .
2) 1- off - 25mm - steel tubing ( cut to size 16"inch's long and centre punched in the middle at 8"inch's ) .
3) 1- off - 10mm threaded rod ( cut to size 24" inch's long - with nuts to suit ) or better still use Trapezoidal ACME threaded steel bar Right
hand thread TR10 and nuts to suit .
4) 8- off- nuts to suit 10mm threaded rod or Trapezoidal ACME threaded steel nuts .
5) 20- off - M6 STAINLESS STEEL A2 DIN 916 SOCKET SET CUP POINT GRUB SCREWS ALLEN BW .
6) 5 - off - 50mm penny washers mild steel ( may need to drill out hole to take 10mm threaded rod .) or could use 5mm sheet steel cut out
round and filed flush to the edge of the tube .
7) 4 -off - 40mm penny washers mild steel . ( 2 needed - 2 for spares ).
8) 10 - off - 40mm BLACK NEOPRENE RUBBER PENNY WASHERS M10 ( 1-needed - 9 for spares ) .
9) 1 - off - Can of - metal paint - ( Colour of your own choice ) .
Method -
Start by measuring the length and thickness of the yoke - Then cut the 50mm steel tubing to size - ensure both ends are cut square and you have left enough length on the tube to ensure it will both fit over the yoke tube and reach to the bottom of the yoke and over the bearing and leave enough for the threaded bar to both wind back on and wind onto a good size would be about 20inch's however always best to check this for your model year as I have learned that on wings not all parts are the same - So one size may not fit all so be aware of that .
Having arrived at the correct size - cut the tube accordingly and then file off any fash / burrs/ sharp edges left behind after cutting .
Next - take the tube and place it in a vice just tight enough to hold it while you mark out the holes and center punch them - you will need 8 holes dilled into the tube at distances to ensure that all 8 hole's are spaced equally apart and are in line too - say 15-20mm from the end of the tube - bear in mind you want enough meat on the end of the tubes as this is where you will be pulling from once the grub screws are going to be locked onto the back of the bearing cage once you have torn out the roller bearing cage leaving the lip of the old race behind .
Next - Drill out all the 8 holes using a 5.5mm drill bit - try to keep them all level and as up right as possible !! .. this will help get a better grip for the grub screws so do your upmost to make sure of this . Once this is all done run a half round file down the inside of the tube to remove any burrs or fash .
Next - Take a 6mm machine tap dia and thread out each hole in turn all 8 of them again make sure you keep them upright and level then take a 6mm grub screw and check for fit in each of the tapped out holes . Again take the half round file and run round the inside of the tube to get rid of any burrs .
Now - Cut your threaded bar to length - I cut mine at 24" inchs - that gave me a 4inch stick out of the end of the tube - Enough to get a two 17mm spanners on later to tighten up the two 40mm penny washers and the BLACK NEOPRENE RUBBER PENNY WASHER 40mm - Its just leaving enough length on it so you can also service the tool as well .
Next - Cap off the other end of the tube - This can be done in either two ways - method 1)- Using - 50mm penny washers made up to a thickness of 5mm - Method here is to stack on top of each other place a small length of - off cut threaded bar though all of them then bolt all together and place a tack weld on the edges of all 5 washers until they are all welded to each other - remove the nut from the bottom ( otherwise you won't get it out later on when you have welded all round the washers and fixed them to the tube !!! ) .
Place the tube and place upright in a vice put the welded washers on top of the end of the pipe and take the off cut threaded bar with the nut on the end tack weld the welded washers to the tube ensuring that the welded washers fit snugly all round and are centered to the middle of the tube and not lop sided in any way - if all good tack weld into position - then tack weld the 17mm nut into position as well - Check to see all is level and square - if all good fully weld all tacked parts into position and remove the off cut of threaded bar once the welds are cleaned and dressed up leave to cool off .
Method 2 -
Take a 5mm thick sheet of steel draw a 50mm circle round the 5mm tube - then find the centre -mark out the centre and centre punch it cut out the circle and place the circle in a drill vice - drill out the hole using a 10mm dill bit - once done place on top of the tube using and following the above method 1) make sure it sits centre and tack weld and then fully weld into position following the above method 1) .
Next - Take the 24"inch 10mm- steel threaded bar - Place a nut on one end thread it up enough to take two 40mm washers and one 40mm
rubber washer and a nut at the end - Take two 17mm spanners and fully tighten up !! . ( The rubber is to pad out the top of yoke thread
as you screw down onto it to stop it getting damaged ).
Once the 50mm tube is cooled down - thread the bar up threw the tube and thread threw onto the nut - once you can see the thread - say 4inch - threw - carry on winding back - so the 40mm washers and nut at the bottom are well up past the 6mm threaded holes - when this is done - place a nut on top of the threaded bar and run it down -20mm - Spray anti splatter onto the threaded bar at the top of the capped off end of the tool or just use a bit of oil it's just to stop the threads getting clogged up when you weld the handle on .
right
Next - Take the 25mm tube - Cut a length off at 16"inch's - mark the middle off at 8"inch's - Place in a vice and centre punch the tube then drill out the hole using a 10mm drill ensuring the drill is kept upright and centred .
Place - The 10mm threaded rod end into the 10mm hole you just drilled in the pipe - keeping the whole thing as upright and straight as
possible and centered - Tack weld the nut to the 25mm tube then check to see if anything has moved - if all is good - full weld both
nut to the tube and the thread to the nut - if done right - 1- inch of weld will take one ton to break it !!... so well enough for what we
doing here Yes folks ??..
Lastly - Place all the 6mm x 20mm grub screws into there holes - Then paint with the colour of your own choice -
There you have it and it did not cost you a £100 either !!!
