Hi - Folks - I am currently rebuilding my GL 1500 k wing from the ground upwards and are now doing the last part of the suspension rebuild the air compressor and solenoid valve . These parts are often over looked when it comes to servicing the bike mainly because of there location on the bike both left and right side of the saddle bags and to get at the wiring the top box also needs to come off .
The problem I was having with the air pump on my bike was the relay was clicking when I pressed the compressor switch but nothing else was working - When I stripped down the air pump I soon found out why it was not working . I looked in all the manuals I have there was no procedure to do a strip down on the pump it just recommended replacement so I came up with a way of doing this and are now posting it on here for fellow wingers to try the parts for the 1500's are now becoming harder to find more so are the early wings like mine , so if you can save the part by stripping and servicing it the better .
I have divided this how to down into two parts in this how to it will show you how to strip the air pump down service the air pump and test it the other part of this how to the air jet solenoid valve I will post in another how to .
Ok - How to strip down and service your air pump compressor .
tools list :-
10mm socket .
14mm socket .
Socket wrench
cross point screw driver ( Must be snug fitting !! - You do not want to peel the heads of the screws !!!! make sure it fits snug before you twist !! ..).
Materials list :-
O- rings - (replace like for like as needed. ) Purchase from your local bearing and seals shop .
Blue grease - ( just a dab needed to smear around the gears and piston sleeve and crank bearing . )
plastic form - ( medium course type - suitable for air cleaner type use ) .
electrical contact cleaner ( to clean up the electric plug contacts ) .
Begin by removing the top box and side saddle bags on both sides of the bike - this will give you good excess to both the air pump and the air jet solenoid and the wiring too.
Next with this done you should be able to see the air pump compressor on the left hand side of the bike . ( see pic below )
Next - trace back the black compressor motor pump wire to the connection block that sits on top of the bike ( see pic below ) - disconnect this wire and spray both sets of contacts with electrical contact cleaner both male and the female plugs leave this to soak in and do its job .
Next - Take either a 10mm socket or a ring spanner and take out the two 10mm blots holding the pump unit in place you may have to wiggle it around a little - So you can get to the 14mm banjo blot that's holding the hose in assuming you have managed this take a 14mm socket and remove the banjo blot from the air desiccant .
TOP TIP 1) - IF YOUR NOT SURE WHERE A BLOT GOES - ALWAYS REPLACE IT BACK FROM THE HOLE WHERE YOU TOOK IT FROM IN THE FIRST PLACE !! - THAT WAY YOU WILL HAVE A VERY GOOD IDEA WHERE IT CAME FROM RATHER THAN HAVING A BIG PILE OF NUTS AND BLOTS AND TEARING YOUR HAIR OUT WONDERING WHERE EVERYTHING GOES - YES !! ?? .
TOP TIP 2) - HAVE A CAMARA TO HAND AND TAKE PICTURES AS YOU STRIP DOWN EACH PART OF THE UNIT THIS DEFO APPLY'S IN THE CASE WHERE THERE IS NO MANAUL TO SHOW YOU HOW TO PUT BACK TOGETHER AGAIN !! AND YOU ARE FLYING BY THE SEAT OF YOUR PANTS - SO DON'T CRASH AND BURN BE PREPAIRED INSTEAD TAKE LOTS OF PICS AS YOU GO - ITS ODDS ON YOU GOING TO NEED THEM TO PUT THE UNIT BACK TOGETHER AGAIN ... !! .
Next - feed the other air line that is still connected to the desiccant needs to be feed back though the frame and then the whole unit removed in one piece .
Next - With the unit now removed from the bike its now time to start stripping the air pump unit down and separating it from the desiccant unit .
Next - Take the unit to a clean well lit work area with a nice work surface to sit at and some containers to place all the screws and parts in also have a camara ready too to take pics as you strip the unit ( I have learned that not all wings have the same parts so best be prepared fortune does not serve the brave here chaps ) .
Next - Begin by turning the unit over there are two screws holding the air desiccant unit to the pump - find a very snug fitting cross point screw diver to remove these two screws - make sure it fits right I cannot stress enough on this point the screws are very soft indeed if you peel the heads you end up with a nightmare on your hands better just to get the right screw diver in the first place - once you have removed these two screws the unit should separate and you should be left with the pump unit only - Place the two screws you have just removed back into the desiccant holes where you took them from ( that way you cannot mix up the screws as you remove them ) .
Next - With the air pump now separated from the desiccant its time to split the pump unit into two halves -there are 8 screws holding the unit together 4 long straight screws - one at each corner and 4 flat cap screw type holding - remove these and place in separate containers - UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES REMOVE THE 4 END CAP SCREWS FROM THE END UNIT WHERE THE DESCCANT SAT IN THE HOLE - I WILL DEAL WITH THAT IN THE NEXT STAGE .
Next - With the unit now in two halves - you can see how the air pump works it has a small piston just like a car that is driven by the gears from the motor in the bottom of one half there is a small air foam filter that is held in place by a spring washer to get at this push the piston up the sleeve and pull out both the piston and the sleeve together - with that removed you can now get at the spring washer that was holding the air foam filter in place ( On mine after 27yrs on the bike had crumbed and rotted away and was now being sucked up the small passage way to the right and was blocking it up too !! this is what caused mine to pack up too !!) . remove this spring washer and take note now how it fits back into the hole too - face down with the spring edges biting into the edges - if your not sure - take a pic before you remove it !!.
Next - Clean out the bottom of the hole getting rid of all the old foam and giving it a final clean with a clean dry rag .
Next - You next need to clean out the passage way - To do this you will need to remove the four end screws that hold the pump valve housing on the end of the unit - again - make sure you get a snug fitting screwdriver for this you don't want to peel the heads of these screws . loosen these off but do not remove yet when all four are loose place the unit flat down and the four screws facing upwards towards you remove the 4 screws and lift the lid of the unit inside there is a metal 2piece reed valve - take note of how this seats in the unit indeed take pics for your own reference - its in two bits make sure you fit it back the way it came out don't mix up the two metal pieces and defo put these back in the order they came out !! . You will also note to there is two rubber O-rings in there too one big and one small - check this and replace if needed too !! .
Next - With the unit now stripped down and the valve now gone - blow down the air way passage way or take a air gun and give it a good blast to clear out all the crap in there - for is this that was giving me a lot of trouble with mine - Once I had cleared that out things got better right away .
Next - With the air way passage way now clean and the bottom now cleaned out again its time to make a new air foam filter - I used a spare lawn mower foam filter medium course grade and cut out to the same size of the hole - Qnce done replace the form and the spring washer - making sure it fits and bites down on the edges of the hole and thus holding down the foam in place.
Next - Its time to place the piston and sleeve back into place - before I did this I placed a small dab of blue grease both down the bore of the piston sleeve and on the piston bearing do not cake it on just a small dab !! - also dab - wipe a tiny amount onto the gears too again do not cake it on No !! .
Next - Its time to assemble the two halves back together again locate the piston onto the gear wheel then push the two halves back together again there are two location pins both top and bottom - make sure you have the piston engaged and the pins located once you have replace the screws and tighten down .
Next - its time too - replace the air reed valve - replace this as you have taken it out from the unit - Then replace the four screws .
Next - fit a new R x 2mm - O-ring into the airway passage way - then fit the desiccant back into the hole and replace the two screws that hold it in place .
Next - Time to test your handy work - you can do this in two ways - put the part back on the bike and cross your fingers or get a 12v battery and power up the air compressor motor on the bench - your choice on that one ..
Next - put the unit back on the bike in reverse order of removal .
I would have posted more pictures of this how too however - having trouble loading one drive pics - here is a link to the pics I did take click on the links for this how too - for pics of - all pics taken for this project - https://1drv.ms/f/s!AghZXu-GTTGrpQEVP-GSgqP9t_QT
How to strip and rebuild your air compressor
-
wingdings
- Posts: 519
- Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2014 12:48 pm
- Location: timbuck too , England, United Kingdom
- Motorcycle: fff
How to test strip down and repair your air jet solenoid valve on a honda goldwing 1500 part 2
Hi - Folks - I am currently rebuilding my GL 1500 k wing from the ground upwards and are now doing the last part of the suspension rebuild the air compressor and solenoid valve . These parts are often over looked when it comes to servicing the bike mainly because of there location on the bike both left and right side of the saddle bags and to get at the wiring the top box also needs to come off .
The problem I was having with the air pump on my bike was the relay was clicking when I pressed the compressor switch but nothing else was working - When I stripped down the air pump I soon found out why it was not working . I looked in all the manuals I have there was no procedure to do a strip down on the pump it just recommended replacement so I came up with a way of doing this and are now posting it on here for fellow wingers to try the parts for the 1500's are now becoming harder to find more so are the early wings like mine , so if you can save the part by stripping and servicing it the better .
I have divided this how too down into two parts this is part 2 - How to strip the air jet solenoid valve service it and test it the other part of this how to can be found - view - topic - viewtopic.php?f=14&t=37197 How to strip and service your air pump part 1
Ok - Then how to test strip and rebuild your air jet solenoid
tools list :-
Mitty vac - vac pump
12v battery
Socket wrench and suitable size sockets to remove the air jet solenoid valve
cross point screw driver ( Must be snug fitting !! - You do not want to peel the heads of the screws !!!! make sure it fits snug before you twist !! ..).
Materials list :-
O- rings - (replace like for like as needed. ) Purchase from your local bearing and seals shop.
electrical contact cleaner ( to clean up the electric plug contacts ) .
Begin by removing the top box and side saddle bags on both sides of the bike - This will give you good excess to both the air pump and the air jet solenoid and the wiring too.
Next - With this now done - go to the right side of the bike the air jet solenoid is located just below the saddlebag frame - ( see pic below )
Next - Trace back the wire that powers the solenoid to the plug and unplug this wire ( spray some electric contact spray into the plug sockets and leave to soak in ) .
Next - Unbolt the unit from the bike and also unbolt the hose from the solenoid unit ( BE-CAREFULL WHEN DOING THIS THERE IS A SMALL BALL BREARING THAT SITS IN THE BOTTOM DONT LOSE IT !!!!- there is also a small seating clip which the bearing sits in don't lose that either !! ) ( See pic below next one )
Next - With the unit now free from the bike take it to a clean dry well lit work bench , have some cleaning rags , some small containers ready to place all the screws and bits into - Also - you will need a 12v battery to test the solenoid after reassembly and a very snug fitting screw driver too - to avoid pealing the heads of the screws .
Next - Begin by turning the unit over - undo the two screws holding the yellow - Y - Solenoid together this should come apart easy - inspect the following : 1) The O- ring for cracks - replace if needed . 2) plunger - for smooth operation - not sticking and rubber plunger not worn out or deformed !! . 3) clean valve bottom ( on mine the old form sponge from the air pump had been sucked into the solenoid another reason it was not working ).
Next - Clean out the bottom of the unit as clean as possible -repeat the process for the W- solenoid valve .
Next - undo and remove the - Air pressure sensor valve -( the tall black one in the middle ) .
Next - With all three valves now removed its time to clear out the air passageway distribution body passage way do this by placing a air line down the centre hole where you removed the black air pressure sensor valve from - give it a good blast and make sure the passageway is clear !! .
Next - With the stripping and cleaning now done its time to start testing the unit - Begin by testing the black air pressure sensor to do this hook up a mitty vac - ( vac pump ) to the bottom of the sensor and then hook up a multy meter to the sensor connector and measure the resistance between BLK/ GREEN and GREEN /RED terminals .
STANDARD :- 0.7-1.3K ohms 20c/68f
Measure the resistance between the BLK/GREEN and the LT BLUE terminals and the GREEN /RED terminals of the sensor by applying gradually increasing the pressure from 0 to 4kg cm -2 (0-57psi )
The resistance between BLK/GREEN and the LT BLUE terminals should decrease proportionally as the pressure increases .
The resistance between LT BLUE and GREEN/RED terminals should increase proportionally as the pressure increases .
If this in not the case the sensor is a fail and will need replacing .
Next - Reassemble all three sensors back into the sensor body housing - Its now time to test the - yellow - Y and the white - W sensors to do this begin by connecting the mitty vac to suspension valve Y - YELLOW - out put port and apply pressure with the vac pump .
If the pressure does not remain steady then replace the O- ring or replace the suspension valve with a new one .
While maintain pressure apply battery voltage between the BRN/YEL and GREEN terminals of the 3P - RED connector .
If pressure is not relieved though the air distributor then install a new solenoid .
If pressure remains steady even when the solenoid valve is activated try cleaning the distributor passage way again - if this does not work replace it !! .
Next - Connect the mitty vac pump to the relief valve W- WHITE - relief port and apply a vacuum .
If the vacuum does not remain steady replace the O-ring or relief solenoid valve with a new one .
While maintaining a vacuum apply a battery voltage between the BRN/ WHITE and Green terminals of the 3-P RED connector .
If vacuum is not relieved through the air distributor install a new relief valve .
If the vacuum remains steady even when the solenoid is activated try cleaning the air relief port again !! .
If all the tests are fine replace back on the bike in reverse order to disassembly -
ALL PICS OF THIS PROJECT ARE AVAIBLE FOR VIEWING ON THESE - LINKS - https://1drv.ms/f/s!AghZXu-GTTGrpUxUEJsJZwMn653_ AND
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AghZXu-GTTGrpU2NzhogiROgA6W2 .
I would have posted more pics here however I was unable to load one drive pics up onto here hence the links !! .. My bike was fitted with progressive shocks 416 hence the difference between mine and the standard set up if you click on the links there are a set of pics to follow for a standard set up ...
The problem I was having with the air pump on my bike was the relay was clicking when I pressed the compressor switch but nothing else was working - When I stripped down the air pump I soon found out why it was not working . I looked in all the manuals I have there was no procedure to do a strip down on the pump it just recommended replacement so I came up with a way of doing this and are now posting it on here for fellow wingers to try the parts for the 1500's are now becoming harder to find more so are the early wings like mine , so if you can save the part by stripping and servicing it the better .
I have divided this how too down into two parts this is part 2 - How to strip the air jet solenoid valve service it and test it the other part of this how to can be found - view - topic - viewtopic.php?f=14&t=37197 How to strip and service your air pump part 1
Ok - Then how to test strip and rebuild your air jet solenoid
tools list :-
Mitty vac - vac pump
12v battery
Socket wrench and suitable size sockets to remove the air jet solenoid valve
cross point screw driver ( Must be snug fitting !! - You do not want to peel the heads of the screws !!!! make sure it fits snug before you twist !! ..).
Materials list :-
O- rings - (replace like for like as needed. ) Purchase from your local bearing and seals shop.
electrical contact cleaner ( to clean up the electric plug contacts ) .
Begin by removing the top box and side saddle bags on both sides of the bike - This will give you good excess to both the air pump and the air jet solenoid and the wiring too.
Next - With this now done - go to the right side of the bike the air jet solenoid is located just below the saddlebag frame - ( see pic below )
Next - Trace back the wire that powers the solenoid to the plug and unplug this wire ( spray some electric contact spray into the plug sockets and leave to soak in ) .
Next - Unbolt the unit from the bike and also unbolt the hose from the solenoid unit ( BE-CAREFULL WHEN DOING THIS THERE IS A SMALL BALL BREARING THAT SITS IN THE BOTTOM DONT LOSE IT !!!!- there is also a small seating clip which the bearing sits in don't lose that either !! ) ( See pic below next one )
Next - With the unit now free from the bike take it to a clean dry well lit work bench , have some cleaning rags , some small containers ready to place all the screws and bits into - Also - you will need a 12v battery to test the solenoid after reassembly and a very snug fitting screw driver too - to avoid pealing the heads of the screws .
Next - Begin by turning the unit over - undo the two screws holding the yellow - Y - Solenoid together this should come apart easy - inspect the following : 1) The O- ring for cracks - replace if needed . 2) plunger - for smooth operation - not sticking and rubber plunger not worn out or deformed !! . 3) clean valve bottom ( on mine the old form sponge from the air pump had been sucked into the solenoid another reason it was not working ).
Next - Clean out the bottom of the unit as clean as possible -repeat the process for the W- solenoid valve .
Next - undo and remove the - Air pressure sensor valve -( the tall black one in the middle ) .
Next - With all three valves now removed its time to clear out the air passageway distribution body passage way do this by placing a air line down the centre hole where you removed the black air pressure sensor valve from - give it a good blast and make sure the passageway is clear !! .
Next - With the stripping and cleaning now done its time to start testing the unit - Begin by testing the black air pressure sensor to do this hook up a mitty vac - ( vac pump ) to the bottom of the sensor and then hook up a multy meter to the sensor connector and measure the resistance between BLK/ GREEN and GREEN /RED terminals .
STANDARD :- 0.7-1.3K ohms 20c/68f
Measure the resistance between the BLK/GREEN and the LT BLUE terminals and the GREEN /RED terminals of the sensor by applying gradually increasing the pressure from 0 to 4kg cm -2 (0-57psi )
The resistance between BLK/GREEN and the LT BLUE terminals should decrease proportionally as the pressure increases .
The resistance between LT BLUE and GREEN/RED terminals should increase proportionally as the pressure increases .
If this in not the case the sensor is a fail and will need replacing .
Next - Reassemble all three sensors back into the sensor body housing - Its now time to test the - yellow - Y and the white - W sensors to do this begin by connecting the mitty vac to suspension valve Y - YELLOW - out put port and apply pressure with the vac pump .
If the pressure does not remain steady then replace the O- ring or replace the suspension valve with a new one .
While maintain pressure apply battery voltage between the BRN/YEL and GREEN terminals of the 3P - RED connector .
If pressure is not relieved though the air distributor then install a new solenoid .
If pressure remains steady even when the solenoid valve is activated try cleaning the distributor passage way again - if this does not work replace it !! .
Next - Connect the mitty vac pump to the relief valve W- WHITE - relief port and apply a vacuum .
If the vacuum does not remain steady replace the O-ring or relief solenoid valve with a new one .
While maintaining a vacuum apply a battery voltage between the BRN/ WHITE and Green terminals of the 3-P RED connector .
If vacuum is not relieved through the air distributor install a new relief valve .
If the vacuum remains steady even when the solenoid is activated try cleaning the air relief port again !! .
If all the tests are fine replace back on the bike in reverse order to disassembly -
ALL PICS OF THIS PROJECT ARE AVAIBLE FOR VIEWING ON THESE - LINKS - https://1drv.ms/f/s!AghZXu-GTTGrpUxUEJsJZwMn653_ AND
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AghZXu-GTTGrpU2NzhogiROgA6W2 .
I would have posted more pics here however I was unable to load one drive pics up onto here hence the links !! .. My bike was fitted with progressive shocks 416 hence the difference between mine and the standard set up if you click on the links there are a set of pics to follow for a standard set up ...