I'm starting a new post to cover the modifications that I had to perform in order to access the relay box on my Motor Trike kit. First off, the response from Motor Trike was
"Most people remove the mounting bolt that secures the relays to allow access. The body is in the same position as the saddlebag that is on the bike as a 2 wheeler, because of the mounting method of the side covers this positioning cannot be altered or changed."
Apparently nobody told him about having to loosen up the saddlebags in order to gain access to the relay box (according to posts that I have seen in the forum). Anyway, I started out this morning to see what I was going to encounter in regards to gaining access to the relays. I definitely can say that on my bike there was no way in hell that the relay box was coming out thru that narrow gap between the bodywork and the gas tank. I didn't feel that hammering on the gas tank to reconfigure it's shape was a good idea so I started nibbling away at the bodywork with a dremel tool and cutoff disk.
I finally reached a point after removing small amounts of the bodywork where it looked like I would have to remove the top hole for the side cover. But I went back and tried wiggling the relay box a little more and with a very snug fit I was able to pull the box out of the frame without any damage to the box. It was snug but not that tight, it did not require me to apply alot of force in order to pull it out.
This is the starting situation, relay box hidden behind Motor Trike bodywork.
This shows the relay box removed from the frame, the wiring on the top of the fuse box has to be removed.
Plus disconnect the battery negative terminal for safety.
This is the angle on the fuse and relay box as I was pulling it past the gas tank and bodywork.
This is a view showing how both sides are being contacted by the gas tank and the bodywork.
This is a view showing the interference on the front of the relay box with the bodywork.
This is a view showing the interference on the back of the relay box with the gas tank.
This shows the modification required to the bodywork in order to remove the relay box.
Not much left to cut before taking out the top mounting hole for the side cover.
This is a view of the relay box back in position after the modification.
All in all, it wasn't that bad of a modification. It only took about a half an hour total, the biggest problem was overcoming the fear of cutting away the bodywork. But in hindsight, it's not that big a deal. I'm missing the top peg on the right hand side cover and it is firmly attached with just three pegs, although the rubber grommets do need to be in good shape. I hope this helps others who have encountered this situation or will encounter this situation in the future. Again, thanks to all the guys that have helped me learn the in's and out's of working on the 1500. And for those with a keen eye, yes, I did nick the relay box cover with the dremel cutoff wheel just a tiny bit. Last safety tip, be sure to wear a dust mask when cutting on the fiberglass, probably not good to ingest into your lungs.
