A few years ago I decided to use a larger metal fuel filter, like used on some cars. I had found that the metal line from pump was 5/16" but the OEM hose expanded to 3/8" at the filter. What I did that day was make a 5/16-3/8 adapter and form metal lines that run the fuel from tank exit over in a steady curve down the left side top of tank to the rear of the tank where I transition with a short piece of 5/16" rubber line to connect to the fuel filter, then connect same way to more metal and run forwards up top of tank on the right side where it connected to a rubber line about 8" long to my adapter to step up to OEM grey Honda 3/8" curved hose to the vacuum petc0ck. The adapter resided where OEM filter once did. I simply took the one end of ball valve and pressed a piece of 3/8 copper tube over it, the ball valve is now my adapter too . I did this to both give me a bigger filter (Purolator F44663 … or equivilant) and put it in an easily accessed place for service (under seat rear, seat comes off fast with just 4 socket head bolts).
When a metal line ends, I started a bubble flare just to get a smooth bulge in the end to help seal my hoses, I also used a few clamps, but extra clamps or bubbled ends are very likely not really needed at the low pressures present.
I know that I can run fuel down in carbs by pulling the vacuum line off the OEM petc0ck, but I decided to put a ball type fuel valve there where it was easy to access with just opening the fuel door. The filter remains under the seat at rear of tank in a "void area".
I also removed the OEM vacuum petc0ck and bracket, slotted those two holes so in the future if it leaks (I can loosen the two lower screws with a short bit in 1/4 ratchet wrench through the gas door easily, pull it up a little ... and remove all 4 screws to replace innards in place.)
So now, I can starve the carbs prior to storage by manual ball valve through fuel door. I also have some new FI rated hose & clamps to install, but what is on it was great. Filter has a little over 1,000 miles use on it. I did replace the still good regular rubber fuel hose with FI rated hose I had bought for that … thinking it might well outlast the trike now.
The petc0ck had one removable end so I removed it, set the plastic like seal aside, sweat soldered that piece of 3/8 copper to the smaller 5/16 barb to seal it for sure (glad I removed the seal first) after sanding the plating off the brass, then I put it all back together, straight is "open" or "on" while 90 degrees is "off" or "closed". To be candid … and in hindsight, I will add: initially I took a short piece of 3/8" OD copper, used a tapered punch to just barely bell one end, I sanded the nickel off the 5/16" OD hose barb … then I used my vise to press the copper down on to the brass. It expanded being soft copper, but like a bullet pressed into a case, it was TIGHT … so if I had used some lock-tite or etc, there was no need to disassemble & sweat solder it. Likely no need for anything after pressing it on, but then I never just use two nails where I can use 3 or 4.
The current fuel filter is a cheap but still decent DriveWorks 44663, but I have a Purolator 44663 ordered that will replace it.
PS … I do have a fuel door, I just removed the two screws and set it aside out of my way.
.
