I was having a lot of issues with my turn signals behavior. Not picking up correctly and not staying on for long among others. For a while I thought that the self cancelling unit was bad but based on advice from this forum, I decided to first clean the switches. It did not solved my issue as it turned out to be related to corrosion in a connector (Green) above the left fan. However it was still a good thing to do. I took a few pictures and wanted to share them. Hope it may help someone else...
I heard so much about loosing some small parts when attending to this switch that I had to get ready for it. A piece of scrap plywood and one of my cleaning tray should help with that.
Remove the screw in location #1 and set aside the harness retainer. Screw #2 can be removed at this time also.
The 3rd screw can now be removed. Notice that I hold every thing together with my thumb. This is where small parts can be lost. In my case, it all stay together, held in place by the old sticky glue... No grease!
I slide my hand in a large ziplock bag to dislodge the switch lever.
The lever is apart, ready for a good clean-up...
The other half of the switch is still in the lower half of the handle. As you can see, the small ball bearing, spring and a larger ball bearing are staying put... The light and the switch for the horn need to get out as well.
There we are. The slider is out of the box!
A closer look at the slider. It is all coming apart for a thorough degreasing and cleaning.
The front plate of the slider is out, gently pried out of the slots on the side of the body.
What I call the slider assembly. All parts lay out in the proper order... Note that for the 3 prongs contact plate, one tab is wider than the opposite side so that you cannot mess up its orientation.
There we are again. The slider is back together and willing to stay that way... It did help a lot when it went back in place :)
This is how the switch for the horn has to slide back in place. It does go in real easy. No need to force it!
To put it back together? Just reverse order, you know
Nice write-up Good precautions on disassembly using the tray and ziplock bag - you got a good picture of little parts that like to try to escape-never-to-be-seen-again!
I've done switch surgery before on other bikes, need to do it on the 1500. Cruise-on button is iffy (I got cruise to come on, just leave it on now), the mute button for the stereo sticks, it took an hour of fiddling with it to unmute the stereo, and the hazard flasher button only flashes the left side.
And I need to fix the start button in the 1100, it starts the bike just fine but have to jiggle it to get the headlight to come back on.
A local inventor has figured a way to turn a sausage grinder backward to manufacture pigs.
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪
~Mark
Thanks,
I've also done the flasher and cruise control switches. Lots of pics also. I didn't post any as there is already a few posts about them.
Those two are very similar and much more of a pain to put back together. But with a little patience and a few choice traditional Canadian words , it is quite doable...
I can send you pics if you'd like.
I have to put the resume switch on my to do list... Should have done it when the handle was opened... Will do them all next time, including the kill switch which has a reputation to go bad on you.
Yeah! Great write up and photos! My mute switch used to stick but I just kept working it with contact cleaner and WD40 and it works well now. The cruise control sticks but I just leave it on all the time. Not really sure why you would need to turn it off anyway? My hazards also do the left side only thing but after working the switch for a bit they both come on. I so rarely use the hazards I just keep working the switch until they come on as opposed to tearing it apart LOL
As far as the kill switch mine works fine but I’ve gotten in the habit of just turning the bike off with the key and leaving the switch on “Run” all the time. Hasn’t caused any problems...been doing it that way for maybe a year? I am curious why there are 2 “Offs” on the kill switch?
Don't think I've ever used the kill switch (except accidentally ) Rarely fail, the most common failure on them from what I hear is the screws holding the wires to the terminals work loose.
A local inventor has figured a way to turn a sausage grinder backward to manufacture pigs.
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪
~Mark
DenverWinger wrote: ↑Fri May 15, 2020 6:27 am
Don't think I've ever used the kill switch (except accidentally ) Rarely fail, the most common failure on them from what I hear is the screws holding the wires to the terminals work loose.
I rarely use mine, but I do occasionally - usually at a border crossing or something when I'm already using one hand to hold something (i.e. passport) and I can't let go of the handlebars with my remaining hand to get to the ignition switch.
wanna becco wrote: ↑Tue Jul 04, 2023 5:22 am
I know this is an old thread. I am a new goldwing owner and a tad ignorant. Why not just use Deoxite on the switches and not disassemble?
The original Honda dielectric grease is often full of dirt and turned to sludge. While a cleaner spray like Deoxit will work for a while, eventually the problem will return unless you get all the old grease out. I guess with enough cleaner this would be possible, but not practical or economical. You could probably submerge the entire switch assembly in an ultrasonic cleaner, but I'm not sure everything would survive that, and again it's not a very practical solution.
The ideal fix is to tear it down, clean everything and re-grease it with new dielectric grease.
Good precautions on disassembly using the tray and ziplock bag - you got a good picture of little parts that like to try to escape-never-to-be-seen-again! 
