How to Open a Trunk with a Jammed Latch

[okie2ee]

This article deals with trunk latches that are mechanically jammed. This article is on a 1992 Goldwing 1500 Interstate trike conversion. How can this happen?.............by removing and replacing the latch cover plate so that the latch release rod is on top of the latch pulling tab. When might this happen?............whenever the rear lens bar assembly (turn signal, brake, and running light) is removed, which requires the latch cover plate to be removed. Opening a locked trunk when the latch is working properly is covered under another DIY article and I won't duplicate that info.

Here's how I got into my trunk, I must acknowledge all the great suggestions and the actual method that was given to me on this forum. The actual information came from another forum referenced in this forum.

These are the 22" screwdrivers purchased at Harbor Freight

My seat was stuck under the backrest, had to apply alot of pressure to get seat out. The trunk lid normally needs to be
up for the seat to be removed.

Location and sizes of hole drilled to access the trunk lid catches..........1/2" holes on the outside and 3/4" hole for
the bore scope. I didn't try shining a flashlight in the 3/4" hole to see if I could guide a screwdriver to the catches,
this was suggested by another person as a method to locate the screws.

Using the borescope to locate the screws on the two trunk lid catches. Kinda tricky holding the camera and manuvering
the camera while trying to engage the head of the screw with the phillips screwdriver

Trunk lid catches after being disconnected from the trunk lid, two screws per latch

Here is the moveable tab that pulls the latch bar down to open the trunk. Notice that the tab is laid over to one side
and this was enough to allow the latch bar rod to position itself on top of the tab instead of below the tab

This is how the latch bar tab should look when it is assembled properly with the latch bar under the tab. I had to push the latch
bar down a little when I was reinstalling the latch cover plate.

[WingAdmin]

Oh my gosh, just looking at this post - it reminded me that I have used the EXACT same method once before.

I drilled two holes in the bottom front of the trunk. In one hole I stuck a digital borescope, the other hole I stuck in a long screwdriver. I then removed the trunk lid catches just like you describe. I used a small ABS patch glued onto the trunk to close the drilled holes.

[Greenwinger]

And now your qualified as an arthroscopic surgeon your chance to make millions has arrived

[Fatboy46]

OK... My trunk has had issues since before I bought the GW. PO put it in the shop(warranty) for it not unlatching by the levers. Me, too. It lasted about 40 miles. A local shop fixed it. lasted a long time, until it didn't, again. Now the top trunk won't open and the bottom won't lock. I am tired of it.. is there a kit or lock assy that I can replace the Honda system with and just lock/unlock them by the key?

[WingAdmin]

OK... My trunk has had issues since before I bought the GW. PO put it in the shop(warranty) for it not unlatching by the levers. Me, too. It lasted about 40 miles. A local shop fixed it. lasted a long time, until it didn't, again. Now the top trunk won't open and the bottom won't lock. I am tired of it.. is there a kit or lock assy that I can replace the Honda system with and just lock/unlock them by the key?

It depends...on what the cause of the problem is. Is the problem with the keylock itself, or with the latch/release mechanism?

[Fatboy46]

I have a shop to repair it.. make it work... But this is a repeat thing. I am interested in changing the lock to just the keylock - no more levers and cables and coathangers bent to pull on the bar or nylon wire ties to pull on the cables. Just lock it and unlock it with a key.

[FM-USA]

I picked up a Endoscope couple months ago, it was a $40 cheapy with it's own smartphone sized screen. Almost retires my swivel mirrors but there's times one needs a 3D view.
GREAT tool when your back hurts or the ground is wet.

.

.

[K2racer]

Thank you for the informative article. Saved me from a lot of headache.

[Ravyn]

And just how would you expect this to work if your truck is full of stuff like mine always is. And if you are out on the road somewhere are you carrying a drill motor and drills with you so you can drill holes in your truck. I don't think so !!!

[okie2ee]

This is not a problem related to normal everyday usage.............meaning locking your keys inside the trunk.............this method is for when you are doing something with the back lens that requires removing the latch assembly.............when you reassembly the latch incorrectly and close the lid is when the problem starts...............be sure to remove all your junk anytime you work on on the latch mechanism inside the trunk.....................if you lock your keys inside the trunk there are other simple methods for getting the trunk unlocked..............see other articles relating to locking keys inside the trunk.

[Rambozo]

And just how would you expect this to work if your truck is full of stuff like mine always is. And if you are out on the road somewhere are you carrying a drill motor and drills with you so you can drill holes in your truck. I don't think so !!!

[agedbikeman]

Like I do on any bike I own, I square the job for the "WHAT IF SYNDROME", I attached a piece of electrical wire to the latch realease mechanism, passed it down through the trunk release levers, then rolled the wire up and stuffed it behind the trunk levers, so if the latch fails, you fiddle around under the trunk levers, find the wire and pull it, and the trunk will open, I have the last laugh.

I did even consider attaching a solenoid in the trunk with a swtch on the dash, but that's another job for another day.

Alex

[Fatboy46]

Well, according to my shop the trunk issue is an operator error. sez it was locked...oh well.. gettin old aint for sissies