GL1500 REAR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER OUT IN 30 MINUTES, EASY

[JoeDallastx]

Hello, drom Dallas tx
Goldwings and this site are 2 of my favorites things!!
I have learned so much about my goldwings in this site, thank you to all memebers!!
This time, i would like to post about how i did my last REAR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL on a 94 gl1500 interstate
DISCLAIMER: im not saying is the right way, im not saying im the firts person to do it this way, i do not encourage you to do it this way...any constructive coments will be appreciated....
Here it goes
Ok, i have done about 5-8 rear master cylinder removal, by the book, and following advice from members of this and other forums...yes, is a PITA, lots and lots of parts to remove before taking it out....last job i did i decided to try something difrent, it worked great for me and decided to share it

The rear brake master cylinder can be taken out without so much problems if you cut the front bake line, obviously, you have to make a custom sized brake line to plug it back...thats all the trick... no exhaust/ bags/ to remove... it can be done in the side stand....all i removed was the battery box, the heat shield under the mc, 2 small pieces of fairing covering that area, the fluid reservoir, and thats it!!.. i still needed to maneuver a little to take it out

Unfortunately i did not took pics of the procedure, but next time i ll do it, i ll have a whole write up about it...it took me no more that 30 or maybe 35minutes to take it out....put it back after rebuild took me a little more since i have to do a flare on the small brake line i cutted previously, and also had to go to a stre and to buy the necessry harware to repairthe line....i did the cut right behind the battery box, so it was reall accesible to repair it...

I did not cut the rear brake line, since the banjo bolt was real easy to unhook from the cylinder...

Again, im just explaining how i did it, hot saying is the right way, but at the same time i see nothing wrong with this procedure...

Have a great day you'all!!!

[baba67]

Thank you JoeDallastx

There is nothing wrong with your repair and appreciate you sharing this solution.
Being a retired Master ASE technician I can safely say this repair is every bit as reliable as the factory install.
Thank you again,
Bob

[baba67]

I should include that you must be comfortable with using a flairing tool set, as it will need a double flair on brake lines for safety and strength...

[JoeDallastx]

Thank you JoeDallastx

There is nothing wrong with your repair and appreciate you sharing this solution.
Being a retired Master ASE technician I can safely say this repair is every bit as reliable as the factory install.
Thank you again,
Bob

Thank you, Sir

[Swagonmaster]

There are two types of "flat rating" (the term comes from the flat rate manuals that shops use to see how long a job should take and price accordingly), one that allows you to do a job faster but properly and the type I hate where someone shortcuts the job to make extra money but it's not a good repair. This one looks like it's the first kind, not according to Hoyle but a good repair. I always loved it when I could come up with a way to "beat the book".

[JoeDallastx]

There are two types of "flat rating" (the term comes from the flat rate manuals that shops use to see how long a job should take and price accordingly), one that allows you to do a job faster but properly and the type I hate where someone shortcuts the job to make extra money but it's not a good repair. This one looks like it's the first kind, not according to Hoyle but a good repair. I always loved it when I could come up with a way to "beat the book".

Thank you for your remark....just to be clear, i do not live out of fixing bikes, just a fan of them, goldwings particulary...also a fan of the k1200 bike

[Swagonmaster]

Everyone loves to beat book time, especially when it's by a large margin. Those that get paid to do it are just REALLY proud of it. Glad you were able to save yourself and now all of us a lot of time!

[offcenter]

Sure wish someone had pictures and/or a video to show this procedure.

[JoeDallastx]

Sure wish someone had pictures and/or a video to show this procedure.

Hello...i failed on taking pics or video...if i ever do this again, i ll gladly do so.... in the mean time, if you want, i can guide you step by step... not hard at all, but have to have a pipe flaring tool, to reconnect the brake like we needto cut

[offcenter]

Thanks Joe. But my bike does not need this at present.
But I like think ahead and see what others have done in case I do ever need to do it.
When it becomes necessary, it's nice to remember that, "Hey! Joe posted pics and a video about that!"
Thanks for the written description and the offer, Joe.

[Tim 1956]

Hello, drom Dallas tx
Goldwings and this site are 2 of my favorites things!!
I have learned so much about my goldwings in this site, thank you to all memebers!!
This time, i would like to post about how i did my last REAR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL on a 94 gl1500 interstate
DISCLAIMER: im not saying is the right way, im not saying im the firts person to do it this way, i do not encourage you to do it this way...any constructive coments will be appreciated....
Here it goes
Ok, i have done about 5-8 rear master cylinder removal, by the book, and following advice from members of this and other forums...yes, is a PITA, lots and lots of parts to remove before taking it out....last job i did i decided to try something difrent, it worked great for me and decided to share it

The rear brake master cylinder can be taken out without so much problems if you cut the front bake line, obviously, you have to make a custom sized brake line to plug it back...thats all the trick... no exhaust/ bags/ to remove... it can be done in the side stand....all i removed was the battery box, the heat shield under the mc, 2 small pieces of fairing covering that area, the fluid reservoir, and thats it!!.. i still needed to maneuver a little to take it out

Unfortunately i did not took pics of the procedure, but next time i ll do it, i ll have a whole write up about it...it took me no more that 30 or maybe 35minutes to take it out....put it back after rebuild took me a little more since i have to do a flare on the small brake line i cutted previously, and also had to go to a stre and to buy the necessry harware to repairthe line....i did the cut right behind the battery box, so it was reall accesible to repair it...

I did not cut the rear brake line, since the banjo bolt was real easy to unhook from the cylinder...

Again, im just explaining how i did it, hot saying is the right way, but at the same time i see nothing wrong with this procedure...

Have a great day you'all!!!

I would have to see picture to believe that. I had to remove everything. The complete exhaust and the bags. All day job to take it apart. What a horrible mess.

[Swagonmaster]

The trick is all in how you hold your mouth!

[Tim 1956]

The trick is all in how you hold your mouth!