GL1500 REAR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER OUT IN 30 MINUTES, EASY

[JoeDallastx]

Hello, drom Dallas tx
Goldwings and this site are 2 of my favorites things!!
I have learned so much about my goldwings in this site, thank you to all memebers!!
This time, i would like to post about how i did my last REAR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL on a 94 gl1500 interstate
DISCLAIMER: im not saying is the right way, im not saying im the firts person to do it this way, i do not encourage you to do it this way...any constructive coments will be appreciated....
Here it goes
Ok, i have done about 5-8 rear master cylinder removal, by the book, and following advice from members of this and other forums...yes, is a PITA, lots and lots of parts to remove before taking it out....last job i did i decided to try something difrent, it worked great for me and decided to share it

The rear brake master cylinder can be taken out without so much problems if you cut the front bake line, obviously, you have to make a custom sized brake line to plug it back...thats all the trick... no exhaust/ bags/ to remove... it can be done in the side stand....all i removed was the battery box, the heat shield under the mc, 2 small pieces of fairing covering that area, the fluid reservoir, and thats it!!.. i still needed to maneuver a little to take it out

Unfortunately i did not took pics of the procedure, but next time i ll do it, i ll have a whole write up about it...it took me no more that 30 or maybe 35minutes to take it out....put it back after rebuild took me a little more since i have to do a flare on the small brake line i cutted previously, and also had to go to a stre and to buy the necessry harware to repairthe line....i did the cut right behind the battery box, so it was reall accesible to repair it...

I did not cut the rear brake line, since the banjo bolt was real easy to unhook from the cylinder...

Again, im just explaining how i did it, hot saying is the right way, but at the same time i see nothing wrong with this procedure...

Have a great day you'all!!!

[baba67]

Thank you JoeDallastx

There is nothing wrong with your repair and appreciate you sharing this solution.
Being a retired Master ASE technician I can safely say this repair is every bit as reliable as the factory install.
Thank you again,
Bob

[baba67]

I should include that you must be comfortable with using a flairing tool set, as it will need a double flair on brake lines for safety and strength...

[JoeDallastx]

Thank you JoeDallastx

There is nothing wrong with your repair and appreciate you sharing this solution.
Being a retired Master ASE technician I can safely say this repair is every bit as reliable as the factory install.
Thank you again,
Bob

Thank you, Sir

[Swagonmaster]

There are two types of "flat rating" (the term comes from the flat rate manuals that shops use to see how long a job should take and price accordingly), one that allows you to do a job faster but properly and the type I hate where someone shortcuts the job to make extra money but it's not a good repair. This one looks like it's the first kind, not according to Hoyle but a good repair. I always loved it when I could come up with a way to "beat the book".

[JoeDallastx]

There are two types of "flat rating" (the term comes from the flat rate manuals that shops use to see how long a job should take and price accordingly), one that allows you to do a job faster but properly and the type I hate where someone shortcuts the job to make extra money but it's not a good repair. This one looks like it's the first kind, not according to Hoyle but a good repair. I always loved it when I could come up with a way to "beat the book".

Thank you for your remark....just to be clear, i do not live out of fixing bikes, just a fan of them, goldwings particulary...also a fan of the k1200 bike

[Swagonmaster]

Everyone loves to beat book time, especially when it's by a large margin. Those that get paid to do it are just REALLY proud of it. Glad you were able to save yourself and now all of us a lot of time!

[offcenter]

Sure wish someone had pictures and/or a video to show this procedure.

[JoeDallastx]

Sure wish someone had pictures and/or a video to show this procedure.

Hello...i failed on taking pics or video...if i ever do this again, i ll gladly do so.... in the mean time, if you want, i can guide you step by step... not hard at all, but have to have a pipe flaring tool, to reconnect the brake like we needto cut

[offcenter]

Thanks Joe. But my bike does not need this at present.
But I like think ahead and see what others have done in case I do ever need to do it.
When it becomes necessary, it's nice to remember that, "Hey! Joe posted pics and a video about that!"
Thanks for the written description and the offer, Joe.

[Tim 1956]

Hello, drom Dallas tx
Goldwings and this site are 2 of my favorites things!!
I have learned so much about my goldwings in this site, thank you to all memebers!!
This time, i would like to post about how i did my last REAR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL on a 94 gl1500 interstate
DISCLAIMER: im not saying is the right way, im not saying im the firts person to do it this way, i do not encourage you to do it this way...any constructive coments will be appreciated....
Here it goes
Ok, i have done about 5-8 rear master cylinder removal, by the book, and following advice from members of this and other forums...yes, is a PITA, lots and lots of parts to remove before taking it out....last job i did i decided to try something difrent, it worked great for me and decided to share it

The rear brake master cylinder can be taken out without so much problems if you cut the front bake line, obviously, you have to make a custom sized brake line to plug it back...thats all the trick... no exhaust/ bags/ to remove... it can be done in the side stand....all i removed was the battery box, the heat shield under the mc, 2 small pieces of fairing covering that area, the fluid reservoir, and thats it!!.. i still needed to maneuver a little to take it out

Unfortunately i did not took pics of the procedure, but next time i ll do it, i ll have a whole write up about it...it took me no more that 30 or maybe 35minutes to take it out....put it back after rebuild took me a little more since i have to do a flare on the small brake line i cutted previously, and also had to go to a stre and to buy the necessry harware to repairthe line....i did the cut right behind the battery box, so it was reall accesible to repair it...

I did not cut the rear brake line, since the banjo bolt was real easy to unhook from the cylinder...

Again, im just explaining how i did it, hot saying is the right way, but at the same time i see nothing wrong with this procedure...

Have a great day you'all!!!

I would have to see picture to believe that. I had to remove everything. The complete exhaust and the bags. All day job to take it apart. What a horrible mess.

[Swagonmaster]

The trick is all in how you hold your mouth!

[Tim 1956]

The trick is all in how you hold your mouth!

[AceCycleNut]

Sure wish someone had pictures and/or a video to show this procedure.

Here's the video I watched.
Here is a video I watched for what it's worth.



   Never miss a video: Subscribe to the GoldwingDocs YouTube channel today!


The trick is all in how you hold your mouth! Thank you Swagonmaster! That definitely applies here!

I recently used the abbreviated method for the rear master cylinder change. What inspired me to try it that way was a YouTube was a video I ran across while looking for an easier method than the service manual recommends. But that video was after the fact too. But he points things out and gives a good description of how to proceed. I had a bit of a head start because I already had things removed for other work. The big trick to removing the heat shields is the one 8mm bolt that is sort of hidden under the passenger foot rest. You'll need a good light and a 6" extension to get to it. It also locks in the other heat shield underneath. After you get the trim and heat shields off you can get to the cylinder actuator rod. Break loose the lock nuts and back it out of the clevis connector. Much easier than removing the cotter and clevis pin in that tight spot!
ALSO you don't have to cut any brake lines to do this. I took the banjo fittings loose once I got to them. I don't recall if I broke them loose before removing the cylinder mounting bolts or after,but you will have to remove them to be able to twist and turn the master cylinder to get an angle to get a wrench onto the banjo bolts. DON'T TAKE THE 10MM FLARES LOOSE. JUST THE BANJOS. So here is where you can decide if cutting the brake line is the way you ant to do this or not.
The next bit is a little "fiddley". You can only turn those banjo fittings one flat at a time. Each time you will have to spin the wrench so you can reach the next flat on the banjo nut. And your going to be wondering the whole time "How am I ever going to put it back together?" Trust me it is possible to do, but it's probably why the comments on that video were mixed with failures and some that called BS but didn't even try it first. What do you have to loose? If you fail at this method then you wind up with the service manual to fall back on. But YOU CAN DO IT!
The only trouble I really had was when I found one of the banjo connections leaking after I had it all back together! I wasn't observant enough and I missed a piece of flash left on the casting of the master cylinder. After I got to it AGAIN, it just took a few strokes with a small flat file to fix it. I just wish I had figured that out BEFORE trying to bleed the brakes.
I hope that was inspirational,lol. Ride safe all.

ACN

[Tim 1956]

Sure wish someone had pictures and/or a video to show this procedure.

Here's the video I watched.
Here is a video I watched for what it's worth.



   Never miss a video: Subscribe to the GoldwingDocs YouTube channel today!


The trick is all in how you hold your mouth! Thank you Swagonmaster! That definitely applies here!

I recently used the abbreviated method for the rear master cylinder change. What inspired me to try it that way was a YouTube was a video I ran across while looking for an easier method than the service manual recommends. But that video was after the fact too. But he points things out and gives a good description of how to proceed. I had a bit of a head start because I already had things removed for other work. The big trick to removing the heat shields is the one 8mm bolt that is sort of hidden under the passenger foot rest. You'll need a good light and a 6" extension to get to it. It also locks in the other heat shield underneath. After you get the trim and heat shields off you can get to the cylinder actuator rod. Break loose the lock nuts and back it out of the clevis connector. Much easier than removing the cotter and clevis pin in that tight spot!
ALSO you don't have to cut any brake lines to do this. I took the banjo fittings loose once I got to them. I don't recall if I broke them loose before removing the cylinder mounting bolts or after,but you will have to remove them to be able to twist and turn the master cylinder to get an angle to get a wrench onto the banjo bolts. DON'T TAKE THE 10MM FLARES LOOSE. JUST THE BANJOS. So here is where you can decide if cutting the brake line is the way you ant to do this or not.
The next bit is a little "fiddley". You can only turn those banjo fittings one flat at a time. Each time you will have to spin the wrench so you can reach the next flat on the banjo nut. And your going to be wondering the whole time "How am I ever going to put it back together?" Trust me it is possible to do, but it's probably why the comments on that video were mixed with failures and some that called BS but didn't even try it first. What do you have to loose? If you fail at this method then you wind up with the service manual to fall back on. But YOU CAN DO IT!
The only trouble I really had was when I found one of the banjo connections leaking after I had it all back together! I wasn't observant enough and I missed a piece of flash left on the casting of the master cylinder. After I got to it AGAIN, it just took a few strokes with a small flat file to fix it. I just wish I had figured that out BEFORE trying to bleed the brakes.
I hope that was inspirational,lol. Ride safe all.

ACN

I hope I will never have to do mine again. Removing the entire exhaust system and bags and everything around the battery compartment. What a nightmare that was. It seems like most repairs or replacement of things, the bags have to come off, and the seat and tank sides and top. I got hit with all of that when I bought it from an honest person. 2 months of work to get it into safe running condition. thanks.

[AceCycleNut]

Tim I'm sorry to hear you didn't enjoy that trip. Sounds like you wound up taking the long way around.
I was skeptical about it too and that's exactly why I didn't take any pictures! I wasn't sure the cylinder would come out like that. And I did say putting it back is an even bigger challenge. It is doable without taking the whole bike apart. But it's a very tedious and trying.
I did know that taking my exhaust and mufflers apart was not an option for me.
I found out that Goldwings are a special breed of motorcycle. It's a love hate thing,lol. Love em when they run and hate to work on em when they breakdown.

Best of luck in all your future adventure Tim.

ANC

[Tim 1956]

Tim I'm sorry to hear you didn't enjoy that trip. Sounds like you wound up taking the long way around.
I was skeptical about it too and that's exactly why I didn't take any pictures! I wasn't sure the cylinder would come out like that. And I did say putting it back is an even bigger challenge. It is doable without taking the whole bike apart. But it's a very tedious and trying.
I did know that taking my exhaust and mufflers apart was not an option for me.
I found out that Goldwings are a special breed of motorcycle. It's a love hate thing,lol. Love em when they run and hate to work on em when they breakdown.

Best of luck in all your future adventure Tim.

ANC

I just found your video. It came to me yesterday. I did mine 3 years ago. duh. The toughest part was reattaching the mufflers to the down pipes. They did not want to go back in with those insulation collars. Then I discovered to connect a ratchet strap on each end and pull them together. That worked out great. I was getting tired hitting on them with a rubber mallet and barely moving. The ratchet strap pulled them together nicely. Thanks for your video or your explanation. Tedious does not bother me. I just didn't know. Getting the carbs out and rebuilding them was a task too but nothing like that. thanks so much

[AceCycleNut]

Tim I'm sorry to hear you didn't enjoy that trip. Sounds like you wound up taking the long way around.
I was skeptical about it too and that's exactly why I didn't take any pictures! I wasn't sure the cylinder would come out like that. And I did say putting it back is an even bigger challenge. It is doable without taking the whole bike apart. But it's a very tedious and trying.
I did know that taking my exhaust and mufflers apart was not an option for me.
I found out that Goldwings are a special breed of motorcycle. It's a love hate thing,lol. Love em when they run and hate to work on em when they breakdown.

Best of luck in all your future adventure Tim.

ANC

I just found your video. It came to me yesterday. I did mine 3 years ago. duh. The toughest part was reattaching the mufflers to the down pipes. They did not want to go back in with those insulation collars. Then I discovered to connect a ratchet strap on each end and pull them together. That worked out great. I was getting tired hitting on them with a rubber mallet and barely moving. The ratchet strap pulled them together nicely. Thanks for your video or your explanation. Tedious does not bother me. I just didn't know. Getting the carbs out and rebuilding them was a task too but nothing like that. thanks so much

I had trouble just trying to loosen the rear muffler clamp and spinning the muffler out of the way for my tire change. I barely got the left side to move enough to get the axle out. I'm into my carbs now too. Had them off four times now. It's a long story,lol. But I think I see my problem now. Once again I'm waiting for some small o-rings. Just an FYI. I went to McMaster Carr and looked up some Viton o-rings for the accelerator pump riser tube. They have them if you can figure out the size you need. They are 2mm ID X 4mm OD for that riser tube. I've been on this since I brought it home four months ago! I'm ready to ride a like new Goldwing as soon as I get the carbs straightened out. I'm very close! I think,lol.
I'm sorry, sort of off topic, but nice to compare our miseries.

ACN

[Tim 1956]

Tim I'm sorry to hear you didn't enjoy that trip. Sounds like you wound up taking the long way around.
I was skeptical about it too and that's exactly why I didn't take any pictures! I wasn't sure the cylinder would come out like that. And I did say putting it back is an even bigger challenge. It is doable without taking the whole bike apart. But it's a very tedious and trying.
I did know that taking my exhaust and mufflers apart was not an option for me.
I found out that Goldwings are a special breed of motorcycle. It's a love hate thing,lol. Love em when they run and hate to work on em when they breakdown.

Best of luck in all your future adventure Tim.

ANC

I just found your video. It came to me yesterday. I did mine 3 years ago. duh. The toughest part was reattaching the mufflers to the down pipes. They did not want to go back in with those insulation collars. Then I discovered to connect a ratchet strap on each end and pull them together. That worked out great. I was getting tired hitting on them with a rubber mallet and barely moving. The ratchet strap pulled them together nicely. Thanks for your video or your explanation. Tedious does not bother me. I just didn't know. Getting the carbs out and rebuilding them was a task too but nothing like that. thanks so much

I had trouble just trying to loosen the rear muffler clamp and spinning the muffler out of the way for my tire change. I barely got the left side to move enough to get the axle out. I'm into my carbs now too. Had them off four times now. It's a long story,lol. But I think I see my problem now. Once again I'm waiting for some small o-rings. Just an FYI. I went to McMaster Carr and looked up some Viton o-rings for the accelerator pump riser tube. They have them if you can figure out the size you need. They are 2mm ID X 4mm OD for that riser tube. I've been on this since I brought it home four months ago! I'm ready to ride a like new Goldwing as soon as I get the carbs straightened out. I'm very close! I think,lol.
I'm sorry, sort of off topic, but nice to compare our miseries.

ACN

Misery loves company. reading the first line, the accelerator pump "O" ring popped into my mind that you was going to say, and sure enough you did. My full kits that came from Taiwan did not have the replacement "O" ring and I used one of the other old ones or something like that. That was one of the problems. Turn the throttle and it would die out. Besides both main jets being blocked with a sand like substance. That accelerator pump "O" ring is the most difficult thing to find anywhere. Why do the supply everything else in the complete kit but that? It's all part of the carbs. Thanks so much. Maybe I'll look them up from your info and get 1 in case. thanks again.

[Tim 1956]

I just found your video. It came to me yesterday. I did mine 3 years ago. duh. The toughest part was reattaching the mufflers to the down pipes. They did not want to go back in with those insulation collars. Then I discovered to connect a ratchet strap on each end and pull them together. That worked out great. I was getting tired hitting on them with a rubber mallet and barely moving. The ratchet strap pulled them together nicely. Thanks for your video or your explanation. Tedious does not bother me. I just didn't know. Getting the carbs out and rebuilding them was a task too but nothing like that. thanks so much

I had trouble just trying to loosen the rear muffler clamp and spinning the muffler out of the way for my tire change. I barely got the left side to move enough to get the axle out. I'm into my carbs now too. Had them off four times now. It's a long story,lol. But I think I see my problem now. Once again I'm waiting for some small o-rings. Just an FYI. I went to McMaster Carr and looked up some Viton o-rings for the accelerator pump riser tube. They have them if you can figure out the size you need. They are 2mm ID X 4mm OD for that riser tube. I've been on this since I brought it home four months ago! I'm ready to ride a like new Goldwing as soon as I get the carbs straightened out. I'm very close! I think,lol.
I'm sorry, sort of off topic, but nice to compare our miseries.


Went to the site and nothing matches up for what you have here.
ACN

Misery loves company. reading the first line, the accelerator pump "O" ring popped into my mind that you was going to say, and sure enough you did. My full kits that came from Taiwan did not have the replacement "O" ring and I used one of the other old ones or something like that. That was one of the problems. Turn the throttle and it would die out. Besides both main jets being blocked with a sand like substance. That accelerator pump "O" ring is the most difficult thing to find anywhere. Why do the supply everything else in the complete kit but that? It's all part of the carbs. Thanks so much. Maybe I'll look them up from your info and get 1 in case. thanks again.

[VWGene]

Root Canal or removing rear brake master cylinder on 1999 Goldwing 1500 Aspencade
Honestly, I’ve had a root canal procedure and it didn’t hurt at all. However, the preceding pain was some of the worse I’ve experienced. But the master cylinder replacement, what an ordeal! Removing the master cylinder is not difficult if you have time and patience. To begin with, remove the seat, right side driver and passenger foot pegs along with the engine shields. You don’t need to remove the saddle bag or any exhaust components other than the two sheet metal shields under the master cylinder that are attached by a single screw. Hardest part is removing the inner banjo fitting and the plastic filler tube hose. I was able to unthread the filler cover screw with needle nose pliers. I couldn’t access the brake line fitting at the rear of the inner banjo fitting so I gently rotated the assy and was able to gain access to the banjo fitting. Positioning oneself is also very important. I have two knee replacements so kneeling was not a consideration. Working on my side or sitting on the ground were my only options. Having a motorcycle lift would have been nice. Now that it’s installed and the system is bled, I plan to take a ride to celebrate our accomplishment (my wife helped with the bleeding). I don’t envision having to do this again, but if needed,

[AceCycleNut]

Root Canal or removing rear brake master cylinder on 1999 Goldwing 1500 Aspencade
Honestly, I’ve had a root canal procedure and it didn’t hurt at all. However, the preceding pain was some of the worse I’ve experienced. But the master cylinder replacement, what an ordeal! Removing the master cylinder is not difficult if you have time and patience. To begin with, remove the seat, right side driver and passenger foot pegs along with the engine shields. You don’t need to remove the saddle bag or any exhaust components other than the two sheet metal shields under the master cylinder that are attached by a single screw. Hardest part is removing the inner banjo fitting and the plastic filler tube hose. I was able to unthread the filler cover screw with needle nose pliers. I couldn’t access the brake line fitting at the rear of the inner banjo fitting so I gently rotated the assy and was able to gain access to the banjo fitting. Positioning oneself is also very important. I have two knee replacements so kneeling was not a consideration. Working on my side or sitting on the ground were my only options. Having a motorcycle lift would have been nice. Now that it’s installed and the system is bled, I plan to take a ride to celebrate our accomplishment (my wife helped with the bleeding). I don’t envision having to do this again, but if needed,

Congratulations! You are among member of the "Yes I can Club" now! I had no clue what I was getting myself into when I bought my Wing. I have done a LOT of work on it over the last 7 months. I can say without doubt that this procedure is probably the most frustrating of all. Then I had a leaky banjo fitting when I was all done and had to get into it again to fix that.
It's funny how we make great effort to learn how to accomplish a difficult task that we NEVER want to do again. LOL
And saying that I'm currently doing an engine swap. '93 has transmission issues now 143,000 miles. Swapping to an '00 engine. Waiting for the last few o-rings for the coolant pipes has been torturous. Orders cancelled,slow shipping,wrong parts shipped........Murphy has an eye on me,lol. If it can go wrong it has.

Congratulations again Gene! I hope all of your adventures are as much fun as this one was.

[agedbikeman]

Must admit, unless I still have it all wrong, I've not really looked, but I thought the rear master cylinder was all part of the resevoir, from the video it is seperate and comes out leaving the reservoir behind.
That in itself is an improvement on my thinking.
Having a complete aftermarket stainless steele exhaust, just as quiet as the original (see my post on this subject) for me it's muffler and box off in 15 mins. much happier about doing this job now, thanks for your desription an video link.
What on earth were Honda thinking about with those muffler connection sleeves that seem to weld themselves to the metalwork making it very difficult to part muffler from box, never ever seen them on other bikes or cars , just metal to metal and it doesn't leak.
Enough rant, thanks again for you article
Alex