How to Remove, Rebuild and Reinstall your Clutch Slave Cylinder (VIDEO)


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How to Remove, Rebuild and Reinstall your Clutch Slave Cylinder (VIDEO)

Post by WingAdmin »



In a hydraulic clutch system, the brake lever pushes a piston much like a brake lever. Like a brake system, brake fluid is pushed down a line to the engine. Instead of a brake caliper, there is a clutch slave cylinder, which moves a piston out when brake fluid pressure is received. This piston movement disengages the clutch by pushing on a rod through the back of the engine cover.

The clutch system is a closed system and should never need "topping up" with fluid. If it starts losing fluid, it means there is a leak somewhere, and needs to be fixed. Especially in the GL1500, a clutch slave leak can be disasterous: if clutch fluid gets past the inner oil seal, it will get into the engine crankcase, and destroy the lubricating oil layer on the crank smooth bearings. Running the engine like this will very quickly destroy the engine!

We show in our video as well as our images below, how to remove, rebuild and reinstall a clutch slave cylinder.

Parts used:

Piston: 22863-MJ8-003
Spring: 22864-MB0-003
Piston Cup Seal: 22865-MJ8-003
8x18x5 Oil Seal: 91209-MB0-003
Vacuum Bleeder
Brake Cleaner
Hydraulic Brake Fluid
Shop Towels

Here is our video of the entire process:



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After removing the left side side panels, you can see the clutch bleed nipple, directly below the alternator:

Image

After removing the left side side panels, we start by removing the bolt holding the drain hose stay, to give easier access to the clutch bleed nipple bolt:

Image

Next, from below, remove the 10mm bolt holding the bleed nipple in place.

Image

This is the clutch slave cylinder, on the back of the engine cover, viewed from below. There are three bolts holding the slave cylinder to the engine cover, and one bolt (on the right) for the banjo fitting connecting the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder.

Image

Remove the banjo bolt. Hydraulic fluid will flow out once this is loosened, so have shop towels on hand to catch and absorb any spillage.

Image

Next remove each of the three slave cylinder bolts:

Image
Image
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Using a screwdriver, gently insert it into the telltale/weep hole on the bottom and pry the slave cylinder gently away from the engine cover.

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Once it releases, you can pull it away easily by hand. Also remove the actuating rod from the back of the engine.

Image

This slave cylinder was obviously leaking. The brown crystallized substance is dried hydraulic fluid.

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Apply air pressure from a compressor to the banjo fitting on the slave cylinder to push the piston out of the cylinder.

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Remove the piston assembly from the cylinder.

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You will see lots of sediment and muck in the bottom of the cylinder.

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Spray liberally with brake cleaner to clean out the residue.

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With a clean shop towel, clean out the brake cleaner. Repeat as necessary until clean.

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If reusing the old piston, remove the spring and seals. In this case, I am using a new piston.

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This is the cup seal that fits over the piston.

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Soak a clean shop towel with brake fluid.

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Use the brake fluid on the towel to lubricate the cup seal as well as the piston itself.

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Making sure the narrow end of the seal points to the front (away from the spring), gently slip the cup seal over the piston.

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Ensure the seal is installed in the correct orientation! Very important!

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Lubricate the oil seal and piston again with brake fluid, and gently press the oil seal into the end of the piston.

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The seal should be level with the outer edge of the piston when fully seated.

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Install the spring onto the back of the piston.

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Lubricate the cylinder and piston liberally with brake fluid, and gently press the piston into the cylinder. Do not pinch the cup seal, and make sure the piston goes in level.

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Using a small screwdriver, apply grease around the outside of the piston. The service manual has you do this before installing the piston, I prefer to do it afterwards, to avoid contaminating the interior of the cylinder with grease. Wipe any excess grease from the face of the piston.

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Apply grease to the actuating rod and spread evenly.

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Insert the actuating rod into the clutch on the back of the engine cover.

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Install the clutch slave cylinder back onto the engine cover. There are dowels on the engine cover to locate the clutch slave cylinder properly.

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Reinstall and tighten the bolts. Install new washers on the banjo bolt fitting, and reinstall the banjo bolt into the clutch slave cylinder.

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Spread towels under your clutch master cylinder to catch any brake fluid - spilled brake fluid will DESTROY plastic bodywork and paint ON CONTACT! Do not allow brake fluid to touch your bodywork under any circumstances! Using brake cleaner and shop towels, spray out and clean the reservoir of any residue as shown here.

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Loosen the bleed nipple with a 10m wrench or socket.

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Install the end of the vacuum pump on the nipple.

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Add brake fluid to the reservoir. Pump the vacuum pump to draw the fluid down to the slave cylinder. Make sure you continue to top up the reservoir so that you don't run dry and suck air into the system! You will also want to pump the clutch lever while doing this, to dislodge any air. Once all bubbles have been removed, close the bleed nipple while still applying vacuum. You may need several cycles of bleeding before getting full clutch pressure.

Once you have full pressure on the clutch lever, reinstall the bleed nipple clamp and close the reservoir.

Image


Bowieeeeeeeeee
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Re: How to Remove, Rebuild and Reinstall your Clutch Slave Cylinder (VIDEO)

Post by Bowieeeeeeeeee »

You only have 4 part numbers listed, can you provide the rest? I think you showed 6 or 7 parts in the beginning of your video. And thanks for posting the video, you saved me from having to buy a motor.
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Re: How to Remove, Rebuild and Reinstall your Clutch Slave Cylinder (VIDEO)

Post by blupupher »

What kind of grease do you use on the piston and rod?

I was thinking some silicone brake lube, but not sure if it is the correct thing to use.

I went for a ride yesterday and could not figure out why my clutch felt weird.
At first I thought it was because I had been riding my 750 Nighthawk for the past month and was just not used to the hydraulic clutch, but after a few minutes, I I started thinking maybe I had air in the system.
I looked at the sight glass on the clutch master seemed fine (turns out, the fluid was so low, it was not showing at all on the sight glass).
When I stopped for lunch, I decided to pull the cap on the master cylinder to just double check and found it empty.
Made a run to the parts store for some fluid, topped it off, and came home.
I ordered the parts (just went ahead and ordered everything, like you said, nothing worse than needing the part and not having it, and it was only $40 at my local dealer for the piston, spring, and both seals).
Just replace it all and not have to worry about it, right?
I will be pulling it apart tonight or tomorrow, but I won't be able to get the parts till Wednesday (Shop closed Monday, I work Tuesday).

I am not seeing any dripping, so either a really slow leak, or may be going into the motor, so I will be changing the oil once I have it back together (earlier than I like, usually change it every 5,000 miles, only 3,500 miles on the oil, but a jug of oil and a filter is cheaper than a motor).
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Re: How to Remove, Rebuild and Reinstall your Clutch Slave Cylinder (VIDEO)

Post by RIPUneleven »

My Goldwing has been sitting for a few years as it was my fathers' who passed away last year. I just tried bleeding my clutch system, my first time doing that on any vehicle and had trouble getting the system to build pressure. I flushed through fresh fluid, noted air bubbles while bleeding the system, and thought i had it sorted. I could feel some pressure in the system but not enough to disengage the clutch from the engine so in gear with the clutch in (engine off) I could feel the gear locking in when I rocked the bike back and forth. My method was pumping the lever a few times, nip open the bleed nipple, nip shut, then let lever out. Rinse and repeat for bloody ages. I don't have any visible leaks on the ground, any ideas as to what might be causing my system to not build pressure?
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Re: How to Remove, Rebuild and Reinstall your Clutch Slave Cylinder (VIDEO)

Post by DenverWinger »

Still got air in there.

Try this - many members have done this on brakes with success - pull the clutch lever all the way and secure it to the handgrip. Leave it overnight. Bubbles should compress, and might migrate to the master cylinder.

You might have clutch action in the morning.
There are 10 types of people in the world, those that understand binary numbers, and those that don't. :lol:

♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫ :(
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♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪ :shock:
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Re: How to Remove, Rebuild and Reinstall your Clutch Slave Cylinder (VIDEO)

Post by RIPUneleven »

DenverWinger wrote: Sat May 28, 2022 2:06 am Still got air in there.

Try this - many members have done this on brakes with success - pull the clutch lever all the way and secure it to the handgrip. Leave it overnight. Bubbles should compress, and might migrate to the master cylinder.

You might have clutch action in the morning.
Thank you, I have done that with the brakes and found it a great tip, have also done that with the clutch too :)
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Re: How to Remove, Rebuild and Reinstall your Clutch Slave Cylinder (VIDEO)

Post by Motoyogi »

I rebuild my clutch last year after watching the video and it worked great. Thanks SO much !

Its leaking again :/ after 15 thousand miles. The first time I could see fluid coming out of the weep but this new leak the fluid is going into the engine.

What seal is leaking when the Dot 4 is leaking back into the engine? The outer piston or the one in the center of the piston you called the oil seal in the video ?

Is it a combination of both ?

I do plan on changing both again anyway and the engine oil. Just curious on how it works :D
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Re: How to Remove, Rebuild and Reinstall your Clutch Slave Cylinder (VIDEO)

Post by bellboy40 »

The seal that is in the clutch cover is the one that will let it get into the engine. That one is a lot harder to get out and replace.
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Re: How to Remove, Rebuild and Reinstall your Clutch Slave Cylinder (VIDEO)

Post by Motoyogi »

I was afraid that might be the case. I have looked around a little but didn't come across any "How to Article's" on that one.
Any one have a link or keywords I might use ?
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Re: How to Remove, Rebuild and Reinstall your Clutch Slave Cylinder (VIDEO)

Post by bellboy40 »

I didn't replace that seal when I rebuilt my slave cylinder so I have no personal experience replacing it. Others who have done that job report the hard part is getting it out of the clutch cover. Here is a sketch a guy made of how he got that seal out of the clutch cover. It seems like that would be a good approach to getting it out. Good luck with your project.

Remove clutch cover seal
Remove clutch cover seal

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Re: How to Remove, Rebuild and Reinstall your Clutch Slave Cylinder (VIDEO)

Post by blupupher »

at least it is a seal you can get out without tearing the motor apart. I know some of the Honda bikes that use a hydraulic clutch you have to crack the case to replace that seal.
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Re: How to Remove, Rebuild and Reinstall your Clutch Slave Cylinder (VIDEO)

Post by WingAdmin »

When I did mine, I had that replacement seal on hand - but when I pulled my clutch slave out, I inspected the seal, saw that it was in great shape, not leaking, and would be a bit of a bear to get out, so decided to leave well enough alone. Don't fix it if it's not broken. :)
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Re: How to Remove, Rebuild and Reinstall your Clutch Slave Cylinder (VIDEO)

Post by offcenter »

My clutch was feeling a bit "funny".
Pulled the cover on the master. Yup. Low on fluid.
I have a leak.
Ordered a slave rebuild kit from Cyclemax.
Looks like an easy enough fix.
I'll let you know....watch this space!


George in Jersey.
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