How to replace your windshield

[WingAdmin]

Replacing the windshield on a GL1500 is quite a bit easier than on earlier bikes, and can be done in less than 20 minutes.

1. Raise the windshield adjuster levers on either side to the up position.



2. Start to peel the rubber lip away from the mirror cover, beginning at the back and working upward.



3. Continue peeling the rubber lip away from the plastic mirror cover all the way around until it is completely detached. Take note that at the bottom rear, the rubber must be pulled toward the rear of the bike in order to detach it - this should be done after all of the rest of the rubber has been detached.



4. Gently pull the bottom of the mirror cover to unclip it from the fairing.



5. While holding the rubber back, pull the mirror cover free of the fairing, and let it drop down. Repeat the process on the other mirror.



6. Expose and remove the two screws holding the chrome windshield trim in place (as shown). On 1994 and earlier Goldwings, remove the two screws holding the black plastic trim (below the windshield trim) in place and remove the black plastic trim.



7. Remove the two screws holding the windshield trim.



8. Slide the windshield trim to the right to unhook the lower tabs, then lift it away from the windshield.



9. Start removing the screws and setting plates (the metal ovals) from the windshield. Start with the outer two screws, then the inner two screws. Note that the two outer setting plates (the two closest to the mirrors) are larger than the other three - make sure you keep them separate.



10. Lastly, while supporting the top of the windshield, remove the center screw, then lift the windshield up and away from the fairing.



11. Lift the new windshield in place, make it approximately level, then insert the center setting plate and screw to hold it in place.



12. Check to make sure the windshield is level again, then begin inserting the remaining setting plates and screws. Ensure the larger setting plates go into the outermost slots in the windshield.



13. Engage the fairing tabs in the slots in the windshield fairing, and slide the windshield fairing to the left to lock it in place.



14. Replace and tighten the screws holding the windshield fairing in place. If working on a 94 or earlier GL1500, replace the black plastic trim and the two screws holding it in place.



15. Holding the rubber back on each mirror, slide each mirror cover back into place.



16. Once in place, gently push each of the mirror cover clips until it latches onto the fairing.



17. Hook the rubber over the rear of the mirror cover, then work the lip around the circumference.



18. Once the rubber lip is around the circumference, push the locking tabs into their slots.



19. Lower the windshield locking levers into their locked positions.

[zamboni920]

Will be replacing my windshield today. I do have one question......As the adjustment are based on the ability to slide windshield up and down, can (or should) any parts be lubricated?

[WingAdmin]

Will be replacing my windshield today. I do have one question......As the adjustment are based on the ability to slide windshield up and down, can (or should) any parts be lubricated?

The adjustment is based on the windshield sliding up and down, correct. The five screws fit into the metal channels that fit into the oval cutouts in the windshield. When the adjustment levers are released, it allows the windshield to slide up and down.



The windshield and the channels slide up and down over the screws, and the screws themselves slide up and down in their own channels in the fairing, so there is a fair bit of adjustment. For the amount of adjustment being done, I don't really think there is any lubrication required, and none is specified in the manual.

If you have a windshield like mine (tall Tulsa), the plastic is thicker for greater rigidity, which prevents the windshield from being adjusted normally. You have to set the height when installing it, and that's what it will be set at until the next time you pull it apart.

[zamboni920]

Thanks WingAdm....I did the replacement and was amazed how simple it actually was. My new one is made by Memphis Shades, material is Lucite and the thickness seems equal to original. Interestingly, the manufacturer advices strongly against using Rain-X, and instead use plastic polishing from Meguiar's or Novus #2 for polishing. After dissassembly I did thoroughly clean slots in fairing, and the oval spacers, sprayed a small amount of lube in these areas, and also cleaned/lubed the adjustment levers. WD-40 on the rubber "gasket" behind windshield for cleaning, and then wiped dry. It all seems to work good. While apart I used the opportunity to clean the top of dash, as it is hard to reach with windshield in place. The whole job took about half hour, cleaning included. As this How-To mentions....on earlier 1500's, one of the two screws behind mirror boot(the bottom one) is for the black fairing vent trim. To clarify on the spacers.....when it is said the outer two spacers are larger (mine looked exactly the same) it is meant they are deeper. Also, on my 1988, the front trim does not slide sideways to unhook the bottom tabs, it flips forward to unhook 2 bottom tabs.

[barnaclebill]

I shall be removing my windscreen tomorrow in order to reduce its height by approx 3 inches - by cutting. This is a great help. Thanks.

[ghostvet]

I am in a severe pickle...

I am replacing my dash lights with LEDs add per another amazing how-to and I am completely unable to remove the 5 large bolts holding in the windshield.

I broke the tip of my large Phillips head trying one bolt. The three above the headlight I cannot even get enough leverage on.

My whole dash is apart and I cannot go further because I cannot access the speedometer cable.

The bolts will not budge!

I cannot get to the backs of the bolts to spray any lubricant or break-free.

Suggestions?

-this is also crossposted in the dash LED replacement how-to.

[barnaclebill]

Not promising this will do the trick, but an old engineering practice is to try to TIGHTEN up the bolts first, before trying to loosen them, this sometimes breaks the lock. I'd also advise plenty of lubrication.

[WingAdmin]

I am in a severe pickle...

I am replacing my dash lights with LEDs add per another amazing how-to and I am completely unable to remove the 5 large bolts holding in the windshield.

I broke the tip of my large Phillips head trying one bolt. The three above the headlight I cannot even get enough leverage on.

My whole dash is apart and I cannot go further because I cannot access the speedometer cable.

The bolts will not budge!

I cannot get to the backs of the bolts to spray any lubricant or break-free.

Suggestions?

-this is also crossposted in the dash LED replacement how-to.

Wow, someone must have really wrenched those screws in there tight.

First thing to do is spray some PB blaster in and around there, let it sit overnight, then spray some more. Wait another hour or so, see if that makes a difference.

If not, go at it with an impact screwdriver. I use this one:

Impact Screwdriver

I got it (cheap) for $14 at partsnmore.com on their tools page. You put the appropriate Philips tip into it, set it for "remove", put the tip in the screw, and strike the back of it with a hammer (I find a heavier mallet works best). The sudden rotational force breaks the fastener free, and the force of the hammer forcing the tip into the screw makes sure it doesn't hop out and strip the screw.

Once you do get them out, make sure you don't put them back in as tight!

[barnaclebill]

I mentioned - way back in June - that I was removing my windscreen to reduce its height. Thought I'd update you! I didnt remove it! Having marked out the required height with a marking pen, I cut it in situ, using an electric jig-saw! I know what you are going to say - it was a risk, but with my son holding the screen and advancing extremely carefully, we did it! Finished off the edge with wet emery, again within utmost care, and it did the job. So well, in fact, that we did a similar job on the son's Valkyrie! I'd post photos but don't know how! Too old!

[Bob Myers]

Is procedure same or similar to an Interstate?

[marsman]

I had the same problem removing the screws on my '89 Goldwing as ghostvet did. Clearly, a prior owner had had the same problem as several of the screw heads were destroyed and buggered up. Some looked like a hammer and chisel had been used to loosen them. A couple of the screws finally succumbed to liquid wrench and an impact screwdriver, but I had to give up on the impact driver for fear of breaking the fairing. I finally got the last ones loose using narrow jawed vice grips which were just able grab the outside edges of the screw head. It took a good deal of force and when the screws broke loose, there was a distinct snap.

Note that the tightness of the screws was not a result of corrosion. Rather, the shoulder on the screw just seats very firmly against the base. I put a little anti-seize on the screws when I reinstalled them, but I don't know if that will help or not. Honda would be well served to use some kind of socket head screw instead of these Phillips head screws. (Maybe they have changed on later models??)