How to remove and replace your timing belts


Step-by-step tutorials on how to maintain and fix your GL1500
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mrjay62
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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by mrjay62 » Mon Aug 10, 2015 9:22 am



Hi Everyone.
this is the best I can get it.... Anything to worry about?

thanks
Jay
Attachments

Left side facing the motor
Left side facing the motor


Crank spot on
Crank spot on


Rigth side spot on
Rigth side spot on



As always thanks for your help and input...
Great Site, Great People!
Jay

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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by jandjgoldwing » Mon Aug 10, 2015 11:48 am

I only did this once. I did it because of the article, which suggested that this should be done if the bike was new to me.
When I removed the belts, I made certain that nothing, absolutely nothing, rotated. I had a friend hold wrenches on the camshafts while I slacked the idler and did the removals. Then, the new belts went in place tooth for tooth with no need to move anything to get them on, other than slacking the idler. I checked the tension on the idler with my finger, looking for the amount of deflection.

So, my opinion is that, presuming the scoot runs well prior to replacement, and presuming that nothing moves when the old belts come off, then you'll be ok.

The manuals and the article both suggest that a minor misalignment may reduce efficiency and cause the engine to perform less than optimally. If that's the case, you may need to find a safe way to rotate the first picture into alignment. I don't think the cam is out of rotation an entire belt tooth based upon the photo. This whole thing is like a bear trap, and moving the camshaft could cause problems you'll regret.

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mrjay62
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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by mrjay62 » Mon Aug 10, 2015 11:57 am

Thanks

its not off by a whole tooth, Believe me I tried everything , even swaped belts...its a half tooth off I can get it above or below the mark.. Just not dead on, belt wont allow it....
I read wingAdmins instructions, I have a honda shop manual, but nothing about being off this much..
I guess it is what it is.....lol
Not sure if there is anything else to try....

thanks for ur input Jandgoldwing.
As always thanks for your help and input...
Great Site, Great People!
Jay

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jandjgoldwing
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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by jandjgoldwing » Mon Aug 10, 2015 1:49 pm

You probably already thought about this: When you have the new belts on, before connecting the spark plugs, spin the engine with the starter for a moment or two and listen for bad noises. If none, then, if it were mine, I'd give it a try after finishing the assembly. But I wouldn't be heading for Sturgis until it had a few local miles on it... 8-)

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guitarzan
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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by guitarzan » Mon Aug 10, 2015 3:55 pm

I replaced my timing belts for the same reason and was told that as long as it wasn't over one tooth it would be fine and I turned it with a wrench it was fine and when I started it up, it was great. No problem at all. You're good...... :D
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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by WingAdmin » Tue Aug 11, 2015 4:59 pm

jandjgoldwing wrote:You probably already thought about this: When you have the new belts on, before connecting the spark plugs, spin the engine with the starter for a moment or two and listen for bad noises. If none, then, if it were mine, I'd give it a try after finishing the assembly. But I wouldn't be heading for Sturgis until it had a few local miles on it... 8-)
No, no, no!!!

If you have done it wrong and a cam is misaligned, spinning the engine with the starter will bend valves and cause top end damage.

As described in the article, once you have the new belts, before the plugs are installed, turn the engine over BY HAND using the bolt on the back of the engine. If you feel ANY resistance, stop.

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mrjay62
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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by mrjay62 » Tue Aug 11, 2015 8:24 pm

Hey Guys
I Turned this motor over by hand enough to go a mile... It's not hitting anything....And still not lining up 100% off by a half tooth....
Tonight , Since replacing the rear tire removing the final drive, drive shaft and ujoint, All the O rings and Seals,Cleaned painted and Molyed Everything I was able to lower the rear end and use the starter to crank the motor a few times.. Not run it, just crank it over.. sounds fine belts look good but still off....
Time to button that up and move on the the front of the bike...

Thanks everyone....

Jay
As always thanks for your help and input...
Great Site, Great People!
Jay

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mrjay62
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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by mrjay62 » Tue Aug 11, 2015 8:28 pm

I would post some pictures but the site is fighting me... once I reply and go to attachments click Add it goes to my gallery I pick a picture and everytying disappears takes me back to a blank , post a reply page.
its like this bike.... So Confusing! , :lol:
As always thanks for your help and input...
Great Site, Great People!
Jay

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mrjay62
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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by mrjay62 » Tue Aug 11, 2015 8:48 pm

Trying this again!!
Hopefully it works!
Attachments

What a mess!
What a mess!


All Cleaned
All Cleaned


Darkside.. taxi tire
Darkside.. taxi tire


Cleaned and painted
Cleaned and painted


Damn Rust!
Damn Rust!


Back together
Back together

As always thanks for your help and input...
Great Site, Great People!
Jay

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mrjay62
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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by mrjay62 » Tue Aug 11, 2015 9:03 pm

A few more boring pictures. :D
Attachments

No more Rust!
No more Rust!


As of tonight no change.
As of tonight no change.


Center and right side dead on.
Center and right side dead on.


Getting there!
Getting there!

As always thanks for your help and input...
Great Site, Great People!
Jay

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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by roadwanderer2 » Wed Aug 12, 2015 6:56 am

mrjay, that's a pretty looking bike you have there. love the color and the artwork on it. from the pics of your pulley marks, they are as close as your gonna get em. mine lined up the same way on my motor and i've had no problems with it when i replaced the belts on it. 1/2 tooth off isn't gonna be a problem.

stuart.

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mrjay62
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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by mrjay62 » Wed Aug 12, 2015 12:17 pm

Thanks Stuart.
It more me than anything else, I've seen so many diy videos and pictures with instructions on this and other sites, read thu both my manuals and Very Signal One I seen and read thu does not show this off half tooth problem. IT A SICKNESS!! Just want it right or as close to 100% as possible.
The bike only has 62k miles on it, no way can parts/bearing have wore out to put it out that far, not without something going south too.... know what mean? Or is this just a mental thing ? lol
I don't think it left the factory that way...oh well .. I guess I'll have the mufflers back on today ill fire it up and see......

thanks for your input
Jay
As always thanks for your help and input...
Great Site, Great People!
Jay

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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by roadwanderer2 » Wed Aug 12, 2015 7:36 pm

mrjay, when i did the timing belts on my 83 @102,000 miles, i thought the same thing, every time i would line up the left side of the motor, the right side would be a half tooth off, and no matter what i did it wouldn't line up exactly perfect. i must have removed those belts at least 5 or 6 times to get it "perfect" but it just wouldn't line up. one time i thought i had it right, i turned the motor by hand and it locked. it wouldn't turn any farther, so i locked the left side down with channel lock pliers, turned the right cam pulley to line up the arrows, and tried to turn the motor by hand again, and again it locked up. i then had a friend that's rebuilt these motors before come over to help me get it right, and he put the right side cam pulley 1/2 tooth off, put the belt on, turned the motor by hand and every lined up where it was suppose to, including the "T1" mark on the flywheel. he said 1/2 a tooth off isn't going to do any damage as long as everything else is aliened up, and he was right. this motor purrs like a kitten when its idling. not a miss or knock. so 1/2 tooth is ok, but any more than that might cause problems.

from the pics i saw of what you did with yours, you did an excellent job and you should have it back on the road to enjoy the rest of this bike season. congrats. as for me, im riding mine down to the Florida keys next month.

now if ya'll will excuse me, i have to put my wife's surprise birthday present together. i bought her a 5' wooden porch bench swing for her garden and i have to get it together tonight before it gets dark.

stuart.

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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by mrjay62 » Wed Aug 12, 2015 7:42 pm

Thanks Stuart....

Enjoy putting that Swing together, And Your Wifes Birthday!


JAY
As always thanks for your help and input...
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Jay

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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by DarthJ » Sat Oct 10, 2015 8:01 pm

Just got done with mine this past week. Following the fine instructions posted here. That being said, I did NOT drain the coolant since I'm planing to replace the water pump and didn't want to drain it twice. It is a bit harder to get the left cover off and on again, but can be done with a bit of finesse, a bit of force where necessary, and a lot of cursing. :lol: Having to wait a few days to finish after getting the covers off cause you have to help your parents and then realized you forgot to get a torque wrench doesn't help either. :oops:
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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by Blackngold » Fri Feb 05, 2016 2:15 pm

Couple o questions-- do the pulse gen.'s work off the trigger wheel that is on the crankshaft? Is there any great benefit to adding the CM1032 cycle max trigger wheel that advances timing 4'? Has anyone done it and what was your conclusion? How is it installed? THX all!

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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by WingAdmin » Fri Feb 05, 2016 2:42 pm

Blackngold wrote:Couple o questions-- do the pulse gen.'s work off the trigger wheel that is on the crankshaft? Is there any great benefit to adding the CM1032 cycle max trigger wheel that advances timing 4'? Has anyone done it and what was your conclusion? How is it installed? THX all!
That trigger wheel was originally designed to try to help off-idle issues with early Goldwings. Because it changes the timing slightly, it has the slight side effect of increasing power, while reducing mileage. Your bike doesn't need it, but feel free to try if you want.

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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by Blackngold » Sat Feb 06, 2016 11:19 am

Pardon my ignorance, what is an off-idle issue? thx.

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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by dennislp » Sat Feb 06, 2016 11:37 am

mine made it a little better at fast hwy speeds 80 plus but it became a premium burner

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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by T_birdman » Sat Feb 06, 2016 8:46 pm

Just finished changing out my timing belts using this guide and I'm happy to say the bike is running PURRFECTLY again! Thanks Wing Admin!

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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by Blackngold » Sun Feb 07, 2016 5:33 am

dennislp wrote:mine made it a little better at fast hwy speeds 80 plus but it became a premium burner
I'm already using 100% gas--no ethanol which is higher priced. Was just curious while I was changing out timing belts. Not going to do it tho., don't get to 80 very often.

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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by WingAdmin » Sun Feb 07, 2016 8:45 pm

Blackngold wrote:Pardon my ignorance, what is an off-idle issue? thx.
It's a problem where the bike idles fine (or at low RPM), but when you first open the throttle to accelerate, the engine bogs down and does not produce enough power, until the RPM gets high enough, then the power surges in. Kind of like a flat spot that occurs right when you come off the idle stop, hence off-idle. It can be dangerous, when you are in a corner at a very low speed, then open the throttle to straighten up and accelerate out of the corner, and instead of accelerating, the engine bogs down and the bike DECELERATES for a moment instead.

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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by Blackngold » Mon Feb 08, 2016 8:50 am

WingAdmin wrote:
Blackngold wrote:Pardon my ignorance, what is an off-idle issue? thx.
It's a problem where the bike idles fine (or at low RPM), but when you first open the throttle to accelerate, the engine bogs down and does not produce enough power, until the RPM gets high enough, then the power surges in. Kind of like a flat spot that occurs right when you come off the idle stop, hence off-idle. It can be dangerous, when you are in a corner at a very low speed, then open the throttle to straighten up and accelerate out of the corner, and instead of accelerating, the engine bogs down and the bike DECELERATES for a moment instead.
Hell, my car does that. KIA said it was in the software? Gotten used to feathering accelerator when pulling away from a stop.

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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by glenwegener » Fri Feb 19, 2016 9:42 pm

Great article and made the changing of the timing belts so smooth for me. I took all the pictures and procedures and made a pdf file of it. Anyone want it just let me know. Once again, great job!!

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Re: How to remove and replace your timing belts

Post by jandjgoldwing » Fri Feb 19, 2016 10:55 pm

Blackngold wrote:
WingAdmin wrote:
Blackngold wrote:Pardon my ignorance, what is an off-idle issue? thx.
It's a problem where the bike idles fine (or at low RPM), but when you first open the throttle to accelerate, the engine bogs down and does not produce enough power, until the RPM gets high enough, then the power surges in. Kind of like a flat spot that occurs right when you come off the idle stop, hence off-idle. It can be dangerous, when you are in a corner at a very low speed, then open the throttle to straighten up and accelerate out of the corner, and instead of accelerating, the engine bogs down and the bike DECELERATES for a moment instead.
Hell, my car does that. KIA said it was in the software? Gotten used to feathering accelerator when pulling away from a stop.
I had that problem when my '88 was "new to me". Fix was simple. Took it to some old dude in Brandon FL who knew how to fix the problem, along with about $700. It was the best money I spent. Although I changed my timing belts and sub air filter myself, when I glimpsed the instructions for working on carbs, in light of the fact I did not have either spare parts nor special tools, I was plain spooked.



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