Adding LEDs to Radio and handle bar controls

[wingpilot08]

So after adding LEDs to my lower panel as shown in another DIY article, I decided to tackle working on the radio and then the left and right handlebar controls. Doing the radio requires removing the top panel (as if you were going to change your air filter. But once the top panel is removed, then you remove the radio assembly from the top shelter.

Then it is a matter of removing 4 screws from the face of the radio and remove the top of the radio to expose the the circuit board of the panel.

The gray items on the board are the light to remove and will be replaced with LEDs, the one I purchased were from superbrightleds.com
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinf ... l-led/221/

It is important to know the polarity of the LED and also on the board the correct position to install the LED. If you look closely at the ckt board picture, I marked the + and - sides of the ckt board. To determine the actual LED, I used an 9 volt battery with a couple wire and then marked the negative side on the base of the LED. Also it is necessary to remove from the LED a small portion of the "wings" on the LED base (will try to get a picture of the modification)

Once the LED are installed you can connect the ckt board back to the radio to ensure the light are properly inserted and working. If not then you just need to check the polarity again and reinsert the LED.

Once completed and working, it is just a matter of putting the radio back together , reinstalling into the shelter and installing the shelter

I was happy with the way it looks on the bike...

Now to complicate things..I decided to work on the left handlebar controls (the more difficult of the two) this is not for the faint of heart as you have to completely disassemble the the controls...CAREFULLY! In the control are, if I counted correctly 9 bulbs that need replacement.

I had used component 3mm flat top LEDs I had on hand and resistors, but they can be purchased with the dropping resistor already assembled
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DD ... UTF8&psc=1

What is being removed from the controls are light holders. Pictured is just a couple of them, some can be a real bear to remove!

The LEDs fit, but I used a bit of hot glue to ensure that they stayed in place.

It is then the matter of getting all the lights replaced, wiring out of the way and the control all buttoned up. It was a challenge, but I think the final result is worth the work and aggravation. I haven't done the right side unit yet, but I believe it only has 4 light that need to be changed!

Find This Item on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DDC4BJW?tag=goldwingdocs-20

[bookmaker]

Looks like i'm back at sea, x navy and they used red for night ops, gives better eye change to the dark. When you get into the right handlebar, do another post because my cruse buttons quit and would like to see what i'm getting into before I open it up. Another idea for the red lights - take red C7 Christmas bulbs and replace the white nightlights around the house, better on the eyes for those middle of the night bathroom trips and can see just as good.

[wingpilot08]

Bookmaker.. I’m also ex-Navy, so know what you mean about the red LEDs.

So yesterday I received the additional LEDs required and today started changing out the bulbs for LEDs. I opened up the right side controls

And located the bulbs to be replaced. It was a lot easier then the left controls, only 4 bulbs to replace. I was able to get to the bulbs somewhat easily. Inserted the LEDs and spliced the wires to the new LEDs. Confirmed that connection were correct before buttoning up the unit and now have all LEDs for all the controls!

[Scoty79]

What type/make of splices do you use?

[wingpilot08]

What type/make of splices do you use?

Scoty79...not sure what you are asking about "splices". I removed the incandescent bulbs from the enclosures and then using the connectors from the incandescent bulbs, soldered and heat shrunk the cables to the new LEDs and then inserted to the controls. There is a link above for the LEDs if that is what you ae asking. Amazon sells them in a multitude of colors, with a drop down resistor already in place. Just need to be sure that you have the polarity correct. The incandescent bulbs use green for ground and brown for +12vdc

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DDC4BJW/?tag=goldwingdocs-20 ... ingdocs-20

Find This Item on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DDC4BJW?tag=goldwingdocs-20

[Scoty79]

The LED light is on one end and bare wires on the opposite end. It appears that you are connecting the new wires into the OEM plugs. What type of splice are you using to connect the wires?

[wingpilot08]

The LED light is on one end and bare wires on the opposite end. It appears that you are connecting the new wires into the OEM plugs. What type of splice are you using to connect the wires?

Just taking bare wires and soldering together and using heat shrink tubing to protect.

[WingAdmin]

The LED light is on one end and bare wires on the opposite end. It appears that you are connecting the new wires into the OEM plugs. What type of splice are you using to connect the wires?

Just taking bare wires and soldering together and using heat shrink tubing to protect.

Exactly my method for all things electrical.

[wingpilot08]

The LED light is on one end and bare wires on the opposite end. It appears that you are connecting the new wires into the OEM plugs. What type of splice are you using to connect the wires?

Just taking bare wires and soldering together and using heat shrink tubing to protect.

Exactly my method for all things electrical.

40+ years of doing it.... ...except for maybe the heat shrink tubing...

[tamathumper]

Solder and heat shrink for me on low-vibration items.

On my trailer lighting I tried those new all-in-one heat shrink tubing with the solder bead in the middle. Time will tell, but they look great, very tight fit to the insulation of the wire so apparently waterproof, or at least as waterproof as any connection I've made before, and simple to use.

[wingpilot08]

Solder and heat shrink for me on low-vibration items.

On my trailer lighting I tried those new all-in-one heat shrink tubing with the solder bead in the middle. Time will tell, but they look great, very tight fit to the insulation of the wire so apparently waterproof, or at least as waterproof as any connection I've made before, and simple to use.

I have used them couple times and they seem to be okay...But I still prefer the old school method of using flux, solder and a good soldering iron!

[WingAdmin]

Just taking bare wires and soldering together and using heat shrink tubing to protect.

Exactly my method for all things electrical.

40+ years of doing it.... ...except for maybe the heat shrink tubing...

If I'm working on existing wiring that can't be cut or for whatever reason can't get heat shrink tubing over it, I will strip/solder, then wrap with electrical tape. But then I will wrap one or more nylon wire tires around the electrical tape. That keeps the adhesive on the electrical tape from drying out and keeps it tight and insulated. 30+ years of doing this, and I've never had one fail that I've done that way.

[swifty101]

thank you so much.i needed this

[Madmudder]

Exactly my method for all things electrical.

40+ years of doing it.... ...except for maybe the heat shrink tubing...

If I'm working on existing wiring that can't be cut or for whatever reason can't get heat shrink tubing over it, I will strip/solder, then wrap with electrical tape. But then I will wrap one or more nylon wire tires around the electrical tape. That keeps the adhesive on the electrical tape from drying out and keeps it tight and insulated. 30+ years of doing this, and I've never had one fail that I've done that way.

In this instance I have learned to like positaps. They can be removed with little to no damage to the original factory wiring.
https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

[wingpilot08]

40+ years of doing it.... ...except for maybe the heat shrink tubing...

If I'm working on existing wiring that can't be cut or for whatever reason can't get heat shrink tubing over it, I will strip/solder, then wrap with electrical tape. But then I will wrap one or more nylon wire tires around the electrical tape. That keeps the adhesive on the electrical tape from drying out and keeps it tight and insulated. 30+ years of doing this, and I've never had one fail that I've done that way.

In this instance I have learned to like positaps. They can be removed with little to no damage to the original factory wiring.
https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

Madmudder...those devices you posted are good for some applications...but for inside small spaces (handlebar controls for example) there is no way that they could be used...just no room for them!

[Xplant]

I know this is an aged post, but I saw the need for a Protip mention when fixing my radio lights on a new to me old wing.

Short story is that previous owner said: "nope - never seen all lights work..."

It's a 2001; on autopsy I discovered someone had been in there and installed NEO4s. The gold pads (remember they are basically one atom thick) were scratched severely. Re-tinned with solder and arranged the wires on the old NEO4s to solder on the pad and everything works perfectly. A big dab of hot glue over each LED base to pot it in and we are ready for another 21 years of service.

Also - this is a great time in the bikes life to rip apart the entire keyboard as you would one from a PC and scrub it with soap and water. You can also scrub off and work concentrated isopropyl alcohol in the rotating assemblies and PCB.

Polish all of the key fronts and 4 sides (get those old scuffs out) with some mag polish and you have a factory fresh radio.

Some dielectric silicone grease in your favorite spots like the mating surfaces of the actual radio metal body and its lid assist the old ozone damaged rubber gasket and the one for mating the plastic to the metal radio shell.

Hope this helps anyone stumbling across old surgical problems when cutting into an archeology project.

[Madmudder]

Do the 4 buttons next to the key light or the wheels for heated seat & grips? Asking for a 2008 model
Thanks in advance.

[wingpilot08]

Do the 4 buttons next to the key light or the wheels for heated seat & grips? Asking for a 2008 model
Thanks in advance.

There are no lights in there...nope! I did look into that (also have a 2008).

[Madmudder]

Thank you for taking the time to reply Wingpilot08 much appreciated.

[datucker]

Starting replacing the bulbs on my 2007 with LEDS, and man do I love the look! On the right handlebar switches, however, I couldn’t figure out how to remove the top half to get to those bulbs, so the top bulbs couldn’t be replaced.

Next, I’ll do the left handlebar switches, and finish by replacing the bulbs in the radio panel with LEDS!