Screaming Speedo

[DougR]

My speedometer "screams" or "howls" periodically. To "fix" this I have to stop, then start again. Do people oil these speedo cables, or should I just have it replaced?

Thanks

[WingAdmin]

Depends on whether it's the cable or not. If it's the cable, you can either replace it, or lubricate it with some dry graphite lubricant. If it's the speedometer itself, that's a bit more involved.

[DougR]

How do you know whether it is the cable or the speedo?

I have a tube of dry graphite so I presume I could unscrew from the speedo, hold up and dump a few puffs in the top. But I also have a cable lube tool I use for my dirtbikes for brake or clutch cables that I use with WD-40. Would you recommend this tool for a speedo cable?

[WingAdmin]

How do you know whether it is the cable or the speedo?

I have a tube of dry graphite so I presume I could unscrew from the speedo, hold up and dump a few puffs in the top. But I also have a cable lube tool I use for my dirtbikes for brake or clutch cables that I use with WD-40. Would you recommend this tool for a speedo cable?

I used spray aerosol graphite lube, it uses a highly volatile carrier that will drip the graphite through the length of the cable, then evaporate rapidly leaving the insides coated with dry graphite. Using it is as simple as sticking the tube in next to the cable and letting it rip until it drips out the other end.

[redial]

While you are poking around, check the do-dad (technical term) that turns the speedo cable at the wheel. Sometimes they can be worn, and may even need replacing. If you need to withdraw the speedo cable for fraying check, the tie some string on the end so that you have something to assist in re-inserting it back down the outer. I would be taking the cable out, cleaning it, then apply the graphite or white lithium grease, then re-inserting. It might just move some of the dust accumulation out and off the cable.

[eklimek]

Had the same problem. This what I did.

The screaming bearing needs lubrication. Without taking it apart you can get lube to the bearing with a clear plastic flexible tube sized to seal over the threaded base. Then using the tube as a site glass, fill with light oil and raise until the oil is to the height of the base. Let sit for 5 minutes to penetrate. Very little actually drains out of the tube since the level does not need adjustment. Its worked for this riding season.

[DougR]

Is this a bearing in something down at the wheel or up by the display? I presume the cable threads into a "base" down by the wheel, so you are suggesting

1. Unthread the cable down by the front wheel
2. Put a clear plastic tube or straw thingy over it.
3. Fill with oil.
4. Let it sit
5. Reassemble

Did I get that right?

Thanks again

[eklimek]

Pretty much all there was to it. I figured all the working parts were higher up than the oil level so no harm done. It worked.

All it takes is to remove the speedo cable. It is possible to do without removing anything else but the space is a bit snug.

Did not disassemble the speedo so don't know what exactly was screaming, but it is begging for lubrication.

Plan b was to thread the tube with the speedo cable and spin it while immersed in oil. Did not however need to go that far.

Plan c would be to remove and disassemble the speedo.

[Mag]

When I did my speedo, I was doing the LED light change on the instrument [panel, so already had access to it. My speedo was not screaming but the needle does not "bounce" as much now as it did before, NICE!

[eklimek]

DougR

Have reread your post. I undid the cable at the speedometer and worked entirely at that end. I like your idea of presumably undoing the end at the wheel. The drawback using your method might be that any debris in the cable might be flushed up into the speedometer.

[2manywings]

If this is a 1500 that your working with, remove the philips screw that holds the cable to the drive housing at the wheel. You can then remove the inner cable without un-doing anything up at the speedo behind the dash. Just grab the inner cable, and twist and remove it slowly. If it hasn't been out in a while, you'll most likely see that it is dry and may be rusty looking. If the inner cable is smooth without any fraying, just clean it and lightly grease it and re-install in the reverse order. Twist as your putting it back in and it should slide back into the speedometer with ease. This is routine maint. whenever I do tire changes or brake service. Even if you have to replace the entire cable assy (inner and outer), it's not that bad of a job.

[edju]

My 1500 cable was noisy and jumpy on the dial so I knew I had to clean and get it oiled. The only problem was that I could NOT get it out of the housing. Tried everything! Then I looked on my tool board and found a HEMOSTAT--medium size, and discovered that the tip was the exact size that was required for the slot on the end of the cable. Not only that, but the teeth are angled towards the handle making it extremely grippy for pulling forces when inserted. Try this---easy peezy!

[dingdong]

Hemostats are a must in my motorcycle tool chest. I use a set for many jobs. A good example is on my gl1000. R & R of push pull throttle cables where they connect to the bell crank at the carbs.

[spiralout]

Hemostats are a must in my motorcycle tool chest. I use a set for many jobs. A good example is on my gl1000. R & R of push pull throttle cables where they connect to the bell crank at the carbs.

Yep, yep. I use them on the choke and throttle cables of carbed PWC a lot, too.

[HONDA'S]

One thing I started using instead of WD-40 is Corrosion X. It is for electrical . It doesn't short out , but it's also one of the best panetrating oils I've used.