Charging problem

chefkev121 · Post by **chefkev121** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 9:48 pm

Ok so I was riding to work tonight in the rain of course and I lost power lights on the dashboard dimmed and the bike slowly sputtered to a stop then wouldn't restart I put a voltage meter on the battery it had 11.6 volts. My bike has 60,000 miles on it. I haven't noticed a charging problem before the battery is only 4 months old and it was topped off with fluid. Do you guys think it's time for new alternator? I'm charging the battery at work tonight hopefully I'll get it to run long enough to get back home in the morning so I can pull the alternator in my shop instead of on the side of the turnpike. Oh to make matters worse my trailer is down for repairs so towing it is a no go.

castlewing · Post by **castlewing** » Tue Oct 21, 2014 3:57 am

When the same thing happened to me a few years ago it turned out to be the alternator, run the tests to make sure but get your credit or debit card warmed up for a hefty withdrawal.

virgilmobile · Post by **virgilmobile** » Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:55 am

I've also heard of a failed alternator just needing new brushes.
Mine was a cheap repair.Got lucky.
At least have it checked.

chefkev121 · Post by **chefkev121** » Tue Oct 21, 2014 9:28 am

Well I just changed the battery overnight and the bike started rode it home like a raped ape parked it let it run started to misfire lights dimmed when I put the volt meter it read 7.8 volts so it's official the alternator is shot. At least I made it home now I have the pleasure of pulling the alternator. you shouldn't be to bad. I'll keep you posted

virgilmobile · Post by **virgilmobile** » Tue Oct 21, 2014 9:36 am

Before you call it shot,verify the dogbone fuse is ok,the post on the alternator should be fused direct to the battery and that the "trigger" wire has 12 volts with the key on.

chefkev121 · Post by **chefkev121** » Tue Oct 21, 2014 9:46 am

When i pulled the battery the fuse was good. I have a local battery shop that will rebuild it for 160.00.

Mh434 · Post by **Mh434** » Tue Oct 21, 2014 11:44 am

Bear in mind that a brand-new, 95-amp alternator from LActrical only costs $150, and puts out more than double the juice...

http://www.amazon.com/LACTRICAL-ALTERNA ... ingdocs-20

chefkev121 · Post by **chefkev121** » Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:20 pm

Battery shop just called and it's great news one of the brushes was "stuck" and it only needed to be cleaned and have a stronger spring installed. And the best news it only cost $30.00 bucks for It to be fixed. It's nice to still have honest and fair mechanics. I really dodged the bullet on this one..

bustedwing · Post by **bustedwing** » Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:03 pm

You did luck out, at least it wasn't a really tough job. Hopefully it won't happen again.

chefkev121 · Post by **chefkev121** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:43 am

Hey bustedwing if it does happen I'll replace it with the A electric replacement alternator. I see you're member of the patriot guard I've wanted to get involved for some time. Can you give me some information about the requirements of membership.

bustedwing · Post by **bustedwing** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 9:08 am

Anyone that has the military veterans at heart can join. You don't need a bike, you don't need to be a veteran. The National website is Patriot Guard Riders .org. Once you register there then you will receivethe nname of the state capt.who will put your name and email address on a listing of people to notify when something needs attention. The website explains all about everything, but no meetings, no dues, and you only go to the missions that you can, you are not required to make a certain amount. The people are very friendly, will welcome you with open arms.

chefkev121 · Post by **chefkev121** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 7:06 pm

: I usually take pictures of stuff when I take it apart I just want to double check to make sure that this barrel shaped part is back in its proper place I've looked at my Manuel and it doesn't show it in the alternator assembly pictures

What's up everyone? So now I've run across a new issue. Im reinstalling the alternator and I can't seem to line up the I'll call it the four bladed end that actually corresponds with the engine are there any tricks to lining them up I can't see when I have the alternator in place to know the needed orientation of the Blades on the alternator.I would love a helpful trick thanks I'll be waiting your responses.

bustedwing · Post by **bustedwing** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 8:31 pm

Did the rubber pieces that fit in the paddles of the alternater come out when you pulled it out? There should be 4 pie shaped rubber pieces inside the drive. At times they get worn and fall out of place when the alternater is removed. Generally it's a good idea to replace them whenever replacing the alternater. On the drive end you notice 4 pie shaped areas that is where these seat . If you are looking at orientation of the body you should be able to tell that from the bolt pattern and wire length. If I'm on thewwrong track, let me know. Also if you need any more help, send another email. I will take a closer look at mine and let you know.

chefkev121 · Post by **chefkev121** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 8:43 pm

The dampers are in place and I know how it lines up in reference to the bolt pattern my issue is getting the actual alternator end to align with the notches in the motor

Mh434 · Post by **Mh434** » Fri Oct 24, 2014 2:29 am

When I did mine, I reached in with a loooong skinny screwdriver & slowly rotated the alternator end of the X until it suddenly engaged & slid into place. No matter how many times I tried to align the parts visually, it never worked. Try the screwdriver trick...

chefkev121 · Post by **chefkev121** » Fri Oct 24, 2014 2:40 am

Thanks this was going to be my next step. Appreciate the help

chefkev121 · Post by **chefkev121** » Fri Oct 24, 2014 2:41 am

In case anyone is wondering I work 3rd shift

bustedwing · Post by **bustedwing** » Fri Oct 24, 2014 1:06 pm

Sorry, I didn't understand what you were having trouble with.

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