Bleeding front brakes- help

[Kingston]

I'm using a vacuum bleeder to no avail. When I started there was some air bubbles and when they stopped coming I tighten the bleeder valve. The master cylinder always topped up and still there is no resistance when I apply the brake lever (a little in the last ½ inch). Even with the vacuum bleeder, can there be any air left in the caliper?

[cbx4evr]

Have you tried bleeding without the vac. bleeder? I've never had to use one on my Goldwing.

You are aware that the front left and rear brake are linked? Only the right front wheel caliper is operated by the brake lever. The left front is operated by the rear brake lever. When bleeding the left front bleed the rear wheel brake first.

[Kingston]

Have you tried bleeding without the vac. bleeder? I've never had to use one on my Goldwing.

You are aware that the front left and rear brake are linked? Only the right front wheel caliper is operated by the brake lever. The left front is operated by the rear brake lever. When bleeding the left front bleed the rear wheel brake first.

I'm working on the front right. I have tried it without the pump.
The Clymer service manual says when working on the rear system, bleed the left front first then the back. I don’t know what the difference would be. But first I want to get the front working.

[Sidcar]

Try taking the caliper off and, with the bleed nipple open and your bleed tube on it, squeezing the pistons back into the caliper making sure the bleed nipple is the highest point on the caliper. Refit caliper and pump lever ( making sure you keep the reservoir topped up), once the pads reach the rotor, hopefully you should have a good brake.
If not repeat the above but when the Pistons have been squeezed back pump the lever and check for air bubbles.
It is unusual but not unknown for the seal in a master cylinder to let air into the system on its return stroke instead of sucking fluid out the reservoir.

Sid

[Fatwing Chris]

Have you tried bleeding without the vac. bleeder? I've never had to use one on my Goldwing.

You are aware that the front left and rear brake are linked? Only the right front wheel caliper is operated by the brake lever. The left front is operated by the rear brake lever. When bleeding the left front bleed the rear wheel brake first.

I'm working on the front right. I have tried it without the pump.
The Clymer service manual says when working on the rear system, bleed the left front first then the back. I don’t know what the difference would be. But first I want to get the front working.

On just about any brake set-up they tell you to start bleeding the caliper that is the furthest from the master cylinder.If it were me I would go ahead an do the back if you've done the front and if that doesn't do it go back the front and start over.If then you can't get a good brake and are still seeing bubbles then either the master or the calipers are sucking in air when they're on the return stroke.

[Kingston]

Just letting the 100 plus viewers know that the problem is solved. Yesterday we spent over an hour manually bleeding the caliper. No bubbles came out but the brake lever was still very spongy. I then pulled the lever in and tied it to the handle bars and left it that way over night, to see if there was any leaks in the system. This morning I untied the lever and the brakes are now good. The air in the system must have risen to the master cylinder when the leaver was pulled in.
Now I will start on the rear braking system, I hope it goes easier.

[Ed Z]

In the future if this problem reoccurs, ya can bleed the master by cracking the banjo bolt loose on it while the handle is squeezed... Then tighten it and release the lever (much like you would do on a bleeder screw)... Within a couple times you will usually get the air past the master cylinder and be able to proceed with normal brake bleeding process...

[Wingnut1960]

If Your Front brake lever is spongy or not getting hard try this

I have seen NO mention of this ANYWHERE and found it out with my own frustration

You do NOT have to worry bleeding the rear and front right bleeders if your brake pedal feels good

The front brake lever is independent and only operates the left front bake
I had trouble with my front lever not braking

It just so happened over the winter that my left fork seal had been leaking onto my left brakes
I at 1st thought this was the problem with my braking
I had let them soak in brake fluid, tried Baking soda
I was able to simmer them in Dawn water for 30 min
I even put New pads to replace the new pads that had oil on and no change

I went through 2 bottles bleeding brakes, Back bleeding even and couldn't get my front brake lever to tighten up


The problem was not the pads
It was the banjo bolt washers very slightly seeping oil and air
I replaced new calipher and washers condition was worse
i then re-installed old calipher because it worked, slightly better, I saw slight oil from kit Banjo washers so installed new copper ones from auto store and no pump action
Turns out they were slightly larger washers and would not fit inside and seal properly against the Calipher
I should have gone to Honda and got new ones, but i was working at night on bike and just reconditioned my old washers and re-installed and much better
Then I wrapped some rope around the Brake lever to the bars to get remaining air out overnight ,so much better, then repeated the next night and all is good

All the while before I was thinking
My master cylinder needed replacing
My brake hose was expanding
My calipher needed replacing (I did replace this with new one, thinking that it was cracked, but it was oil from banjo washer)
Why can't i bleed brakes anymore?