Synthetic Oil

[HeyBerg1]

I have a 94 1500A and I'd planned on changing the oil before this riding season and going to a full synthetic oil and a friend said I might want to ask others on this forum if it's wise to do this as my wing has 68,500 miles on it and putting in full synthetic would cause me problems I might not want to deal with. So I'm asking what problems might I experience? Forum readers I'd appreciate your input. Thanking you in advance.

[dennislp]

I use amsoil in mine and all the ones I work on never a problem and most are a little quieter in the trans

[HeyBerg1]

Do you think I'll experience seal problems as regular oil is so much thicker than synthetic isn't it?

[dennislp]

never have and I have over 8 gws around with it in them

[f1xrupr]

Mine is a 1980-I use synthetic-my bike likes it-shifts nicer. You may choose to use a little thicker oil if you switch...?

[HawkeyeGL1200]

Sometimes conventional oils can varnish the inside of an engine, and collect around seals. It has been observed by many that after putting miles on an engine with conventional oil, and then switching over to synthetic oil, that the esters in the synthetic oil will dissolve the varnish (I think it's a good thing) and can end up revealing seals that would have otherwise leaked without the varnish build up, meaning... it could appear that the synthetic oil CAUSED leaks, but it doesn't... it can show you that you've got worn seals that were camoflaged by the varnish build up.

Synthetic oil is probably best used in engines without many operating hours because of this. I'm not saying you will have leaks if you switch to synthetic, but if you do have worn or damaged seals, they will probably show themselves soon after the switch. Synthetic oil is (in most cases) able to protect engine parts at higher temperatures than conventional oils. This probably doesn't matter as much in a water cooled engine as it would in an air cooled engine..

If you want to switch over, I see no reason not to do it. I would suggest changing your filter within a few hundred miles (and making up the difference in the oil after the filter change) to make sure there isn't a lot of sludge being cleaned out of the engine, which can plug up your filter if there's a lot of it, and then just changing the oil and filter at the recommended interval after that.

There's a lot of debate between riders of all kinds of motorcycles about all kinds of oil. If this is something you'd like to do, then I'd encourage you to do it. I know a couple of the members here use AMSOIL, and are happy with the results. I use heavy duty motor oil in mine, like diesel engines use (conventional) and I'm happy as I can be... doesn't mean one way is better than the other, by any stretch of the imagination...

[moneypit]

my 83 1100 has 80 k and I switched to Mobil 1 R 4 T better oil psi smoother shifts its a win win .

[PastoT]

I bought my GL1800 with about 45k miles on it and my first oil change I went to Mobil 4T full synthetic and I'm above 82k miles now. I've had no issues and change oil/filter around 7k miles. I ride from 5 degrees to 125 degrees and have had no issues. I have noticed that in the winter the shifting synth is a bit noisier until she's warmed up; I've also noted that around 6k miles there is a little more shifter noise, when the noise it sticks around for a week I change oil and it goes away. With dino oil in my prior bike, I always changed around 3k and it too sounded different when the oil approached its lifespan; for me this noise increase indicates time to change oil, things are always quieter afterwards. The cost difference seems to be about the same as the mileage difference for me, synth lasts longer between oil changes but costs significantly more. I've had oil changes with dino and full synth that looked nearly the same coming out as going in but I've also seen both turn inky black also. My engines have never leaked nor had any wear issues that caused problems. I do like the full synth mileage because longer trips without oil changes in the middle, and if time or cash is a premium I know the oil will take the extra mileage (supposedly 8k miles).

Honestly I run synthetic as literature reads better for the bike than dino, but I'm also of the belief that you use an oil that runs well and stick to it for the life of the vehicle (just my opinion, I could be wrong). When changing oil on an 1800 there is a qt of old dirty oil trapped in the engine that mixes with the new oil, so its not a complete change essentially, the used oil remaining will tint new oil immediately. It took me two changes before new oil replaced enough old oil so that it still looked new a week after changing (I had one very dirty oil change after running a cleaning oil extending agent). My thoughts on your issue, if your engine is running stable and compression is consistent... why change a good thing if it working for you?

[HeyBerg1]

I want to thank all of you for your input to my question, I appreciate it. I'm going to change to a full synthetic oil as I like the thought of a cleaner engine and is better for shifting. Have a great evening.

[HawkeyeGL1200]

I'd love to hear how you feel about the change-over, and what brand of oil you decide on after you get a few miles under your belt with the new oil. It is always good to hear feedback on different products.

I want to thank all of you for your input to my question, I appreciate it. I'm going to change to a full synthetic oil as I like the thought of a cleaner engine and is better for shifting. Have a great evening.

[dtrider]

I have no idea how true it is, but I've been told that once you do go synthetic, it's a really bad idea to go back to conventional.

[HeyBerg1]

dtrider, once I do switch to synthetic I don't believe I'd want to go back to conventional oil. I'm hoping it'll keep the engine cleaner as most folks say it will but I'm wondering if it'll be louder than I'm used to. Oh well, I guess I'll find out.

Hawkeye, for sure I'll post again what oil I choose and how I feel about it, if it shifts better, etc., but I plan on adding the shifter brace I've read about on the forum and a new shifter seal. There's some slop in the shifter now and I'm hoping the brace will take care of this issue. So I'm sure I'll see a difference in the shifting with adding the shifter brace so hopefully it'll be even better with synthetic in there.

Ride safe!

[dennislp]

all the 1200 and 1500s I have used amsoil in have been quieter have used mobil 1 to not as quiet but prob lubes just as well . the oil lasts longer and doesn't absorb moisture but will still pick up grit so I change my filter and top oil every 4000 miles or before a long trip

[HeyBerg1]

That sounds great to me, as to it sounding quieter. Yes, I understand that synthetic gives more miles between oil changes but I'd change it every 4000 miles along with the filter every time, anyway. I believe changing the oil and filter will help any engine last longer. I've read and heard of so many wings having 200,0000 plus miles on them and I'd think it would be because of the owners changing the oil more frequently than not.

[dennislp]

I have seen a lot with over 150000 and one with over250000 .when they wear out most of the time it comes down to oil . nothing lasts forever but you can drag it out as long as possible. for the return oil is the cheapest insurance you can get

[HeyBerg1]

If I can get 200,000 or even 150,000 miles on my wing I'd be so happy because that would mean I'd still be riding for quite some time.

[landisr]

I bought my 94A new in 95. I switched to full synthetic at around 20k. I have been running full synth ever since. I change the oil and filter every 10,000 miles. The bike has 172,000 miles on it and it still purrs like a kitten. Original clutch and everything. I will be doing the Run For The Wall ride in May and will have close to 180,000 on it when I get back, so I guess I'm saying that the bike is still stone reliable.

Your money, your choice. Enjoy!!

Ron in AZ

PS. For the 18 years it and we lived in Michigan, I also broke the rules and started the bike every 2-3 weeks in the winter and let it run until the fans turned on and off twice. Apparently didn't hurt the engine or oil, and I still have the original mufflers, too. Again, YMMV. Get out there and RIDE as soon as weather permits!!

[Dogsled]

I use Delo diesel oil. I usually change it in the spring then the first week in August. After the first half of summer heat I can feel the tranny clunking a bit more. Fresh oil quiets it down for the rest of the year. I've used synthetic and regular, back and forth, never saw a difference except I pay twice as much for the same protection. got it 3 years old and it's over 100,000 miles. oil quality today is so good, I can't see anyone saying one oil is gonna keep an engine cleaner or make it last longer. especially when you change it every 4 or 5 thousand miles. I buy Delo cause it's cheap and works as good as any oil out there. BTW, my tranny always clunked with synthetic new or old, too thin for a tranny.

[HeyBerg1]

Several circumstances have kept me from getting back here before now but I sure enjoy this forum as I read more than I post, but oh well that's just me. I finally decided not to change to synthetic oil and stick with traditional oil as I'm changing oil and filter every 2500 to 3000 miles and in so doing I believe I won't have any problems, at least, from the oil itself. I did add seafoam before my last oil change and rode for 100 miles and changed the oil and it looked pretty good as there wasn't any sludge in the oil at all. The original owner said he changed oil, every 3000 miles using Gastrol 10W40 and I put in GN 4 10W40 oil.
Stay alert and ride safe. God Bless!