Rocker arm bolt threads pulled

[Carissa]

I am doing the head gaskets on my 81 honda goldwing 1100. When i torqued down a bolt for the rocker arms, the threads pulled. I was able to get it to tighten back up...however i'm not sure if i should rethread the hole or if i leave it as is with how tight it is, if it will be ok. Any advice?

[ct1500]

One of the bolts for the cam journal? Well, no.

[f1xrupr]

Can't remember torque spec on those bolts, but it's not much-maybe 15lbs?
If the threads are stripped in a hole, I think it would be to risky to ignore it. 2 reasons-1st one obvious, bolt come out and fly apart-2nd one not so obvious-some of those bolt holes are oil passages (I think it's 3), and if the bolt comes loose and leaks your oil supply to the cam journals, it will ruin the cam shaft "and the head"!!! You may be able to go to a sae bolt that would be a fraction bigger than the metric, tap and then bottom tap the hole, then "torque" it down to spec (not "guess") with some blue thread locker. If you switch to a sae bolt, you will probably need to grind the shaft of the bolt smaller to allow for oil passage if that bolt is in a oil galley.

[f1xrupr]

On 2nd thought, it might be better to do as I mentioned above, but after rethreading, clean hole well, then use red thread locker with a stud, and then a nylock nut. If you use a piece of "all thread", you may not need to grind the bolts shaft for oil passage....idk

[tom84std]

I've saved the day a time or two by probing the hole to see if there's a little more depth and a few more threads. A slightly longer bolt and "fine tune" with washer thickness. Again, as was mentioned, a different bolt other than factory may need to be modified for oil clearance. Clean the threads of all oil and compressed air and top it off with locktite, although I'd hesitate using the red stuff. I don't know about applying the heat it would require to that particular part of the engine later when it needs removing.

[HawkeyeGL1200]

There may be the option of installing a heli-coil in the hole. I've never done it at the location you are having difficulty with, but a heli-coil is a legitimate alternative to using an over-sized bolt.

Several great suggestions have been offered already... clean the threaded hole, use a torque wrench with a little thread-locking adhesive. Plenty of options.

The main learning here, I think, is using a torque wrench can save guess work and headaches.

[f1xrupr]

Heli-coil is a great idea! However, I wouldn't try the kind that looks like a spring. The kind that looks like a male/female pipe adapter is a quality repair! They require drilling and tapping the existing hole. You may be able to find a little kit with everything you need for that particular size bolt....good idea...!

[WingAdmin]

I have had poor results with heli-coils, with them pulling out at inopportune times. I have however used a Timesert (same sort of idea, but better engineered) and never had one fail, ever.

[HawkeyeGL1200]

I've never used a heli-coil in aluminum. I have used them up 1 1/2" in diameter, at torque values in the hundreds of pounds and never had one fail (in carbon steel). I'll have to look up that brand you referenced, as I've never heard of it.

In any case, our fellow rider has options.

I have had poor results with heli-coils, with them pulling out at inopportune times. I have however used a Timesert (same sort of idea, but better engineered) and never had one fail, ever.

[WingAdmin]

I've never used a heli-coil in aluminum. I have used them up 1 1/2" in diameter, at torque values in the hundreds of pounds and never had one fail (in carbon steel). I'll have to look up that brand you referenced, as I've never heard of it.

In any case, our fellow rider has options.

I have had poor results with heli-coils, with them pulling out at inopportune times. I have however used a Timesert (same sort of idea, but better engineered) and never had one fail, ever.

I should clarify - I haven't had a helicoil pull out from force, I have had them COME out (i.e. back out) when the bolt was removed. The Timesert has a locking tab that prevents that from happening. They are a bit pricey however. I used a Timesert on my Explorer V8 engine when it blew a plug out of the head (common problem with that head - too thin/too few threads holding them in place).

[MikeB]

My favorite and most trusted thread insert is the Key Locking Insert.

They are available from many sources but I get them from McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threa ... ts/=wfonsy in California.

[tech1]

I agree with Admin timeserts
Being a auto mechanic I've used them on Caddys Northstar engines head bolts I wasted none of my time or a customers and sold all on that alluminum block which was know for such or i refused to do the job. It's a pain to get to the second or third pass on the torque sequence and have a bolt pull out. I never had a timesert pull out. Factory approved method
Tech1

[MikeB]

Timeserts are impressive. Even Amazon sells Timeserts in metric and standard US sizes.

[WingAdmin]

The Ford TSB issued for the plugs blowing out on the 4.8 V8 engine specifically says to use Timeserts as part of the repair.

[MikeB]

The Ford TSB issued for the plugs blowing out on the 4.8 V8 engine specifically says to use Timeserts as part of the repair.

Yes, I went to their website and looked at the videos. They have a great product.