Manual fan switch

[fcanary]

Can anyone tell me how to wire in a manual fan switch? Either schematics or a video would be great. I don't think it would be hard, I understand basic wiring. I would like to wire it in so that I can flip it on when needed, such as being stuck in traffic, yet it will come on naturally. Any help would be appreciated.

[WingAdmin]

Can anyone tell me how to wire in a manual fan switch? Either schematics or a video would be great. I don't think it would be hard, I understand basic wiring. I would like to wire it in so that I can flip it on when needed, such as being stuck in traffic, yet it will come on naturally. Any help would be appreciated.

The thermostatic switch that turns the fan on is just that - a switch. They're a bit different depending on the bike (or car), but essentially they have two connections, and to turn the fan on, it shorts those two connections together. If the switch has two wires coming out of it, you can turn the fan on by shorting those two wires together. If it has one wire coming out of it, you can turn the fan on by shorting that wire to ground (the switch uses the engine case as the "other wire").

So to add your own switch, you get your (SPST) switch, with its two terminals, and use wire to connect one of those terminals to one of the thermostatic switch wires, and the the other terminal to the other thermostatic switch wire. If there's only one wire, then one of your switch terminals connects to that wire, and the other terminal connects to ground.

Make sure the switch is rated for at LEAST 15 amps, as the fan draws quite a bit of current. You'll find your switch melting/smoking/burning otherwise.

[Fatwing Chris]

Can anyone tell me how to wire in a manual fan switch? Either schematics or a video would be great. I don't think it would be hard, I understand basic wiring. I would like to wire it in so that I can flip it on when needed, such as being stuck in traffic, yet it will come on naturally. Any help would be appreciated.

The thermostatic switch that turns the fan on is just that - a switch. They're a bit different depending on the bike (or car), but essentially they have two connections, and to turn the fan on, it shorts those two connections together. If the switch has two wires coming out of it, you can turn the fan on by shorting those two wires together. If it has one wire coming out of it, you can turn the fan on by shorting that wire to ground (the switch uses the engine case as the "other wire").

So to add your own switch, you get your (SPST) switch, with its two terminals, and use wire to connect one of those terminals to one of the thermostatic switch wires, and the the other terminal to the other thermostatic switch wire. If there's only one wire, then one of your switch terminals connects to that wire, and the other terminal connects to ground.

Make sure the switch is rated for at LEAST 15 amps, as the fan draws quite a bit of current. You'll find your switch melting/smoking/burning otherwise.

I don't have the schematic to look at,but doesn't the sender/thermal switch circuit just control a fan relay?If so then there will be very little current draw on that circuit.

[WingAdmin]

It depends on the bike.

[Dogsled]

OK, I waited but it never came up......But the question is WHY DO YOU WANT TO DO THIS????????? Now I can go to sleep..........

[Fatwing Chris]

OK, I waited but it never came up......But the question is WHY DO YOU WANT TO DO THIS????????? Now I can go to sleep..........

I did it on my 75 and my 83 Wings because the fan came on later than it should have.It's easier to keep it cool than it is to cool it down after it's way too hot.An adjustable sender would have been nice,but back then I don't remember seeing one.They are available now for auto's.

BTW I left the sender hooked up so that it would come on if I forgot to or was distracted.

[Dogsled]

Was that 'later than it should have' mean;
Later than YOU thought it should have? I would have assumed Honda knew and had things set to come on and off when it needs to.

Were you overheating? I don't know when mine comes on, but it never overheated so I just figured it was coming on when it was needed.

Is yours broken? Why was your 75 and 83 geting so hot it was a mother to cool down? Engines run at an optimum warm temp, that's why the fan turns off and on..... Hey if it works for you, i'm glad.......

[Fatwing Chris]

Was that 'later than it should have' mean;
Later than YOU thought it should have? I would have assumed Honda knew and had things set to come on and off when it needs to.

Were you overheating? I don't know when mine comes on, but it never overheated so I just figured it was coming on when it was needed.

Is yours broken? Why was your 75 and 83 geting so hot it was a mother to cool down? Engines run at an optimum warm temp, that's why the fan turns off and on..... Hey if it works for you, i'm glad.......

Neither overheated and both were in good condition although the 75 was 15+ years old when I had it.I'm an auto tech by trade and I realize that there is a prime operating range,but if a motor runs at less than half on the guage when being driven normally(t-stat is doing it's job as well as the rest of the system)why would you want the fan to come on when it was close to the red line in stop and go traffic.That's not an optimum temp to be running at if you ask me.Like I said it's easier to keep it close to where it normally runs than wait for fan to come on late and try to cool it down.Manufacturers don't always get it right.

[Dogsled]

Just wondering, interesting though. Thanks for explaining

[FM-USA]

Can anyone tell me how to wire in a manual fan switch? Either schematics or a video would be great. I don't think it would be hard, I understand basic wiring. I would like to wire it in so that I can flip it on when needed, such as being stuck in traffic, yet it will come on naturally. Any help would be appreciated.

If your fans are turning on late, you may need a system flush.

If you or PO used tap water (even a few ounces) there will be contaminants coating the thermostat sensor creating the late fan turn on. I'm going through that problem now but have it almost fixed.
White encrustations on your radiator cap is the tell-tale sign.

[Dogsled]

You see FM, that's what I was thinking (not the water thing, the something wrong thing) I think he did this to his other 2 bikes too from the way he talks. I never heard of a well performing coolant system overheating in any conditions. I don't think I've ever looked at any of my meters.. But if someone wanted to control his temps and is used to watching it, it sure can't hurt. Never knew about that tap water thing.

[FM-USA]

You see FM, that's what I was thinking (not the water thing, the something wrong thing) I think he did this to his other 2 bikes too from the way he talks. I never heard of a well performing coolant system overheating in any conditions. I don't think I've ever looked at any of my meters.. But if someone wanted to control his temps and is used to watching it, it sure can't hurt. Never knew about that tap water thing.

When I first got my used Wing, my near life long habit is to mark the gauges where they settle in at normal operating temps, around 80 ambient air temps. That way if there's a change from the norm I'll know and keep an eye of what maybe coming. Idiot lights are for ido... never mind.
Light ON = problem and OFF no problem,... NO wait, is the bulb burnt?

Believe it or not while on the road I only added maybe 1/4 pint of tap water figuring such a small amount wouldn't hurt. I swear, them encrustation deposits had babies.

It's always a good thing to have some control over auto systems, ask any airline pilot.

[Dogsled]

To me, wiring has always been the achilles heel of the wing. Mechanically they're bulletproof (almost) but wiring has always been one thing or another. I spent alot of time with some great wingers over the past 15 years learning what went wrong and what remedy's to take to with problems they've had over the years. One remark made here was Honda doesn't know everything....one thing I do know is they know more than anyone i've ever met on a GW when it comes to their engines....lighting and accesories like that, specifically the 5 cent switches the've installed on the handlebars and the hodgepodge wiring going from front to back for no reason (Like the air compressor sucked) I ripped out alot of wiring for these, wired more directly and used quality switches.....In my opinion an electrical fire is way far more likely than an engine issue. You can keep an engine well maintained.....how do you do this with wiring? My buddy owns a radiator shop and flushes my radiator every 2 years and puts the proper fluid in....never had any overheating problem. I'd do it myself but his shop is dirty already and I got pets and don't want to get that stuff in the garage or in my neighbors grass (where I would change id while he was at work..... )

BUT.....if you actually will keep an eye on the temp gauge and watch all the stuff. More power to you, you should never ge stranded.....and that's a GOOD THING.

I would never know how to tie into the thermostatic controlled switch where I would turn it on manually and all of a sudden the thermostat turned it on.......bam....some fuse gotta blow......maybe Scott covered that already. If he did ok.

Another thing, isn't there some kind of over ride switch in there. I dang positive it was my Wing. I was in SC on the hottest-longest day I ever rode. I shut the bike off and the fan kept blowing til it cooled down...... Mother honda takin care of her baby.................Am I right on that ????????

[Fatwing Chris]

To me, wiring has always been the achilles heel of the wing. Mechanically they're bulletproof (almost) but wiring has always been one thing or another. I spent alot of time with some great wingers over the past 15 years learning what went wrong and what remedy's to take to with problems they've had over the years. One remark made here was Honda doesn't know everything....one thing I do know is they know more than anyone i've ever met on a GW when it comes to their engines....lighting and accesories like that, specifically the 5 cent switches the've installed on the handlebars and the hodgepodge wiring going from front to back for no reason (Like the air compressor sucked) I ripped out alot of wiring for these, wired more directly and used quality switches.....In my opinion an electrical fire is way far more likely than an engine issue. You can keep an engine well maintained.....how do you do this with wiring? My buddy owns a radiator shop and flushes my radiator every 2 years and puts the proper fluid in....never had any overheating problem. I'd do it myself but his shop is dirty already and I got pets and don't want to get that stuff in the garage or in my neighbors grass (where I would change id while he was at work..... )

BUT.....if you actually will keep an eye on the temp gauge and watch all the stuff. More power to you, you should never ge stranded.....and that's a GOOD THING.

I would never know how to tie into the thermostatic controlled switch where I would turn it on manually and all of a sudden the thermostat turned it on.......bam....some fuse gotta blow......maybe Scott covered that already. If he did ok.

Another thing, isn't there some kind of over ride switch in there. I dang positive it was my Wing. I was in SC on the hottest-longest day I ever rode. I shut the bike off and the fan kept blowing til it cooled down...... Mother honda takin care of her baby.................Am I right on that ????????

The thing is that any manufacturer has a minimum temp that they want to run an engine at and that is because of fuel mileage and emissions.Temp sensors are very touchy these days(more so with fuel injection)but the fan switch isn't really that touchy on these old girls.Yes they can get a coating on them that will buffer the reading a bit,but both of mine were pulled out,checked and cleaned before just jumping on adding a manual switch.The cooling system flushed before this.Like I said the cooling system on both were doing there job.If they weren't then then they would either,run too cool(t-stat) or run too hot and overheat(plugged/corroded system).The only thing controlling that fan is the switch and if it consistently comes on late then it's calibrated wrong.So you either come up with a sender that turns it on sooner(obviously the better choice) or run a manual switch in parallel to the existing sender.Maybe it was overkill on my part,but it sure didn't hurt anything.

[Dogsled]

Alot of thought put into all of this. That's a good thing. It's just stuff I never think about....

[FM-USA]

As for HONDA not knowing everything, considering what they have built, as the GoldWing among one, they've got there act together. USA mfgs are ever so slowly catching up,... still. US auto mfgs are still importing imports and sticking there badges on'm, lazy to say the least! But I still don't understand the concept of the Wings minimalistic wire gauges. We Americans like extra or "More Powerful" stuff.

I'm old school but understand the new stuff. I have no problem integrating either forward or backward.
As for the manual fan switch, that's backward re-innovation. That's OK as long as one understand the whole of the issue and/or program (ECU). Like WA said, there's a minimum operating temp that needs to be maintained, go below that temp and the ECU will think the motor is cold and turn the choke circuit on.

As being human we tend to forget if there's something else on our minds, maybe a temp Push Button switch be better. What I noticed on mine, you'll only need to hold for about 1 minute before seeing the temp gauge drop. OR rig a ON LIGHT with that switch, like an LED Toggle/Paddle.

[702scottc]

I have to agree with the previous posts, leave it as designed. When I bought my 1980 in Iowa I rode it home and the PO had a toggle switch setup for the fan. Bike always ran warm even with the fan running, too bad the guy was an idiot and wired the fan from the battery and wired the fan to run backwards.. Spent an hour in the motel parking lot putting it back to original, no more issues for 10 yrs.

[FM-USA]

I have to agree with the previous posts, leave it as designed. When I bought my 1980 in Iowa I rode it home and the PO had a toggle switch setup for the fan. Bike always ran warm even with the fan running, too bad the guy was an idiot and wired the fan from the battery and wired the fan to run backwards.. Spent an hour in the motel parking lot putting it back to original, no more issues for 10 yrs.

Maybe he was cold blooded?
It's said, if we're invaded by aliens, they'd look like lizards.

[702scottc]

Ya, he must have been.. Definitely didn't have sense enough to buy a manual and look at the fan wiring schematic.
The OEM's have their stuff together on cooling systems. I've toured the Ford proving ground facility outside of Needles,Ca. Probably one of the hottest places in the country, even worse than here..lol. Nissan and Hyundai have testing facilities just south of Mojave, Ca. Another garden spot..lol.

[Fatwing Chris]

As for HONDA not knowing everything, considering what they have built, as the GoldWing among one, they've got there act together. USA mfgs are ever so slowly catching up,... still. US auto mfgs are still importing imports and sticking there badges on'm, lazy to say the least! But I still don't understand the concept of the Wings minimalistic wire gauges. We Americans like extra or "More Powerful" stuff.

I'm old school but understand the new stuff. I have no problem integrating either forward or backward.
As for the manual fan switch, that's backward re-innovation. That's OK as long as one understand the whole of the issue and/or program (ECU). Like WA said, there's a minimum operating temp that needs to be maintained, go below that temp and the ECU will think the motor is cold and turn the choke circuit on.

As being human we tend to forget if there's something else on our minds, maybe a temp Push Button switch be better. What I noticed on mine, you'll only need to hold for about 1 minute before seeing the temp gauge drop. OR rig a ON LIGHT with that switch, like an LED Toggle/Paddle.

Even if you left the fan on it would never go below the operating temp because the t-stat will keep where it's supposed to be.
As I said it was wired in parallel(do I need to explain that part?)so it operates as designed unless I want to override it.Now lets get to the optimum operating temp.I don't know the exact numbers right now(I did this back in the 80's)but lets say that your 1100 is new and cooling system is operating as it was designed.Driving down the road the t-stat (lets say a 180* F) will keep it very close to that temp.That's Hondas optimum temp or they would have put a higher temp stat in it.Now lets say you get stuck in traffic,now the fan switch is controlling the temp.Thing is that sensor/switch most likely is set to turn the fan on at 210- 215*F.Now if the bike runs good at approx 180* then how is it good to have that fan come on at 215*?And after it does come on it won't stay on long enough to get it back down to 180* and will still be running hotter than it needs to be.It's not calibrated to do that.It's running 30-35* hotter than necessary at this point prematurely cooking all you rubber hoses and plastic pieces.If the fan came on at 200 or better still 195 then it would be far better on everything.

BTW As far as Honda's getting it right the 1800 was out for 5 years with over heating problems before they remedied the issue in 06.The 1000,1100 and 1200 only had a 4 year run each.They only do the minimum that they can get away with the same as any other manufacturer.

[Dogsled]

The heart wants what the heart wants.........................go for it if you think it's something you want /need to do......

[Aloha Tom]

seen on CL for sale, A 1500 Wing did the fan mods, aux ON switch which he used for long desert rides and two-up towing everywhere.
iirc you turn one fan blade around so it has a suck-blow effect sideways thru the bodywork = to pull in more airflow, allows for better extraction of hot air, an increase of hot-air speed and volume exiting the cowling (watch your leg on cruiser pegs!)
In this situation: You cant make cold- only remove hot!

my 1500 in stop and wait and go 10 feet and stop traffic, that does get the temp up to ~what appears alarming but is within operating specs~ and the fans running
In those cases I hold the rpm around 1500 to make the water pump generate some action thru the radiators
At a Wing rider training day: as we waited- engines running, 15 bikes in line to go thru obstacle course, you could see the gauges moving up. Some went for a quick blast, I mean reasonable speed, 1-2nd gear thru the parking lot to move air thru the rads, others held position and 1500-2000 rpm, and the rest turned engine off.

Would I have liked a switch to keep the fans ON- YES, I have the alternator to handle it and want to use it for something.
Everyone on a Wing tells me they don't get hot `when working right` so don't worry about it.
From my recent stuck in traffic experience- I can imagine in parade use with no airflow = fans for the engine,, and one on the dash for me would be really cool!

[Grindl]

After thirty-five years of Wing owner-ship ; and living in "Hell", I mean Phoenix , I found this topic to be amusing , to say the least . I do not own a car and my Wings have been my primary transportation for that same thirty-five years . Whether it is a balmy 115 or a "frigid" 70 in the winter . And I ride an average of 58,000 miles per year . I do PGR events , Parades , and a lot of other "events" & veteran support and Charity "Rides".
I have had a "Manual" switch on my radiator cooling fan since 1981 , on my 1978 GL-1000 and I feel that one thing is the most contributing factor , in the fact that the motor lasted for over 860,000 miles . Till it was just completely worn out and beyond all wear limits everywhere in the motor .
A manual fan switch was also one of the first items I added to my "83" A-cade after buying it used with 103,000 miles on it . And for the record ; I change my thermostat once a year , and never put any water in my tank or radiator . I run a mix of 50/50 Peak and "Artic Kool". Peak is the only antifreeze I have used in my Wings , just as I have never run any oil but Castrol 20/50..Take a motor apart that has had nothing but Castrol run in it , and you'll see why .

Most Wing riders I have crossed paths with use their bikes as recreational or entertainment transportation , and if it's "to hot" , or "to cold" , or raining , or " I don't feel like riding today ", jump in their air-conditioned , tinted windows cage to do their daily business . I am a Rider first , last , and always . So my bike has to go 24-7 , 365 . It's who and what I am .
Come to my town in July ; when it's 112 degrees and the pavement temps are pushing 200 degrees , and higher . Run up Grand Ave from downtown to Glendale or Sun City . If ; and I say "If" you get there , in afternoon rush hour , your temp gauge will be pegging , or you will have already stopped somewhere because your motor is clinking , clanging and banging . Because your factory thermo-static fan switch was NOT designed to function within the parameters I ride in daily . And that causes these factory switches to fail , which means you get to spend another $57.00 yearly to have it work for half a Summer , just to replace it again . Seriously ?
A manual fan switch is nothing more than extra insurance to protect your motor and cooling system , but you have to be attentive to your temp gauge , and smart enough to use it correctly .

[spiralout]

...on my 1978 GL-1000 and I feel that one thing is the most contributing factor , in the fact that the motor lasted for over 860,000 miles . Till it was just completely worn out and beyond all wear limits everywhere in the motor .

What were your oil and coolant change intervals??!!

[Grindl]

I change my oil at 3,000 / 3,500 miles and filter every other oil change . And the coolant and thermostat get changed once a year . Usually in the late spring ; before we hit those first 100's . You can buy a lot of oil and antifreeze for what major motor work and labor can cost .