Leaky fork seals

[vaughn]

Has anyone used the Seal Mate leak fix on their leaky seals?
seal mate.net

[gford]

Used it and it works. Instructions on utube

[Dusty Boots]

Simple to make your own from a large plastic soda bottle and yes, it works

[vaughn]

Thank's, I give it a try.

[mrtwowheel]

I have changed a lot of seals. Since I made my own Seal-Mate I am batting 1000. Dust seals should still be replaced if cracked or broken up, it's what keeps the dirt away from the seals. I use Walmart Tech Lubricant to pre-clean and lube the plastic before inserting into the seal, I think the lubricant limbers up the seal lips too. It's amazing how easy the plastic goes in. I should buy a real Seal-Mate just to thank those guys for the idea.

Scott

[vaughn]

Got them and they worked. Hard to believe something so simple works.
I will still be changing the 32 year old seals over the winter and adding Progressive springs. I bought the bike 4 years ago with only 18,000 miles and it now has 41,000. 1,000 in the last month. This is in Western Pa. No salt on roads means more riding. I love this bike. Would ride all the time if I could. Best $ 2,500 I ever spent. Plus probably another $ 1,000 in parts and upgrades. Over $ 500 to have carbs rebuilt this year. Bike runs excellent. Like it better than the 88 - 1500 I had 10 years ago. Just needs electronic cruise. I have throttle lock and wrist rest.

[Earl43P]

Parker, Pa. Had to look that one up; sounds like my kind of place.

I had no luck with my 1100's fork seals and Seal-mate (soda bottle version).

I did however, have great luck with the Valkyrie's. They are still dry thousands of miles later.
The key was technique. The guy who did the Valkyrie for me, stood astride it and pulled the forks to full extension and held them there with both brakes and him pulling up. THEN slide the sealmate up in there and do the swiping out. Bounce them, bounce them, repeat the sealmate swipe with the forks fully extended again, bounce bounce extend swipe, etc.

As soon as I get an opportunity and a helper, I'll do the 1100's that way.
Doesn't help that it's parked (15459) 400 miles NW of my present location (27909).

[Dusty Boots]

Nothing will help with leaking on your 100/1100/1200 if your inner fork tubes are pitted/corroded.
That's why Honda went with the fork tube protectors on the 1500s

[vaughn]

Mine has no corrosion of any kind. Look like new.

[ct1500]

A SealMate has its' place for clearing debris from seals. However, it is not a cure all for old hardened seals or higher mileage bikes which might have lots of debris and grit accumulated at the bottom of slider from normal wear. In these cases where leakage returns a fork disassemble and cleaning with new seals and bushings if needed is the order of the day.

[mrtwowheel]

Yeah, you've got to bounce them after using the Seal-Mate. The seals lips really only close tight when compressing the forks, it's the way they're made, one way action. On a heavy bike this isn't easy to do, riding and hitting some bumps, pulling the front brake to make the front dive is what I do when I can't bounce it enough. Granted, the inside tubes must be clean and free of stone dings, I use a diamond sharpening stone to smooth the dings that stick out, find them with my thumbnail. My experience is that this is not just a temporary fix. Still, nothing wrong with changing fluid to remove dirt and minor wear sludge. Excessive wear inside the forks can be felt by feel, just like any other close tolerance fit, when the caps are removed. This subject can bother some people when they think they're being accused of doing something needlessly.

Scott

[flash1942]

I sure wish someone made fork tube protectors for older wings and at a fair price too.

[dummysales]

My 83 Aspencade has been without proper regular maintenance for years. This is the first year I've found leaky fork seals, so the forks are lying on the shop floor. Seal kits are on order. Now the crappy stuff.

I'll post pictures so you have an idea of my dilemma.
A) the left fork tube at the bottom by the bushings has what I perceive as major wear. Do I need a new fork tube? The right tube seems to be fine.

B) If the bushings are worn beyond use (they are), is there an inspection of the lower tubes necessary, and how to do that?

C) On the top of the right fork cap is an air system adapter which a previous owner buggered the 10 mm nut, so I had to use a chisel to get a grip on it to take it out before getting the tube down from the triple trees. I need an Official Honda Part number for searching, or some wildly knowledgeable individual to tell me where I can get a replacement.

As always, I appreciate the generosity and knowledge of the people on this forum. Thanks for your consideration. waj

[Rambozo]

If the hard chrome is worn, I'm sure it is undersize below the service limit. While it can be repaired, the most cost effective solution is to replace with a good used fork.
That valve is still available from Honda #51456-469-013
https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda ... e8c8aec86c
I didn't have the patience to wait for one, so I made a replacement from a standard air fitting.

[dummysales]

memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=94747, thanks for the quick reply. I guess I'm in the market for a fork tube.

Nifty idea to create one. I'll have to check my dies to see if I have one in the 7.84 mm variety.

Cheers.

[Rambozo]

I started with one of these.
https://www.mcmaster.com/8063K33/
So I just needed to turn down the pipe thread and cut the M8 metric thread, o-ring groove, and tapered seat.
I was too lazy that day to cut down the hex to 10mm so mine is 7/16"