Led/ Xmas lights wiring diagram

[BOSNBOB]

Hey guys does anyone out there have a massive amount of lights on their 1500 or 1800 Goldwing and want to share some of their pictures on the rats nest of wires. I have a lot of lights and I need to re-work the wiring. I thought about a circuit board in the trunk of saddle bag. I would really appreciate some pictures and ideas. Thanks to all and Happy Holidays.

[redial]

Don't know how far you got with your request, but the only way to untangle the rat's nest is to get a piece of paper to record all of the wires and what they service. Then go and follow each wire.

If on the other hand you want to increase your rat's nest, you will need to start out with a piece of paper to map out what you are trying to achieve, record the wattages, and then work out whether your alternator can handle the load, your fuses, and relays and switches. Good luck.

[NVSB4]

If you start to add a lot of lights or accessories, I would definitely suggest getting a fused power plate like this one.
I also suggest using wire conduit and cable ties to route the wiring and protect from having to trace down any short in the future.

[MICK MACK]

HOW MANY IS... quite a few? i got those LED light strips from E bay, the ones with the 3M (Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing) self stickums on the back of them, they are handy, 2 wires already attached, just drill a little hole in whatever to run the wires and peel the 3M paper of the back of the light to reveal the stickums. obviously the surface that the lights are to be put on has to be VERY, VERY CLEAN and even then??? i got a HOT GLUE GUN to use to anchor the ends, that seems to work; but the GLUE IS HOT and does NOT feel very good on the fingers when trying to hold something to something else as the glue sets. suggest using something BESIDES FINGERS to HOLD something to the surface while the HOT GLUE cools off to hold the thing on there. I purchased the 18mm and 23 mm INDIVIDUAL LIGHTS too, a person has to drill a 9mm hole in the surface to mount them as they stick through the surface and have a nut on the back to hold them on the mounting surface and 2 wires for each light. Resale value of the bike will definately be changed for... better or worse???

that is where the problem is, the 2 wires for EACH LIGHT and keeping ALL THOSE WIRES from getting snagged on something in the trunk...some kind of conduit in the trunk? and HOT GLUE the conduit to the inside of the trunk so that the wires are somewhat protected from stuff in the trunk? I have several switches for several sets of lights, some lights are on while going down the road (solid colors); other lights flash and are ILLEGAL for road use, i turn them on when i park the bike at the store so hopefully no one backs up over my bike... and takes off

Each set of lights will have its own fuse... the wires by the battery are kind of turning into a birds nest, while i can (probably) figure it out; the next owner might not be able too. i need to make a schematic, i suppose. one more set of 18 & 23 MM LED's fused/switched to come on when the switch is on, i will probably have the switch mounted on the front of the trunk so i can turn it on when i get on/off the bike as the lights will only be on when it is dark and with 3-4 switches so IF i have problems with the wiring, it should be easier to chase the problem down; BUT if i do a GOOD JOB OF WIRING and DON'T SNAG (wire looms) any wires putting/taking things in/out of trunk... i shouldn't have any problems

I have probably passed the point of being "tasteful" with the lights to the point of being (sigh), do i dare say it...gaudy? but beauty is in the EYE OF THE BEHOLDER... and ... what do people say when they run over someone on a MC???? I DIDN'T "SEE" THEM (as they TEXT/TALK on their electronic toy that is GLUED TO THEIR HANDS AT ALL TIMES). RIDE AS IF INVISIBLE TO THE AVERAGE MOTORIST... who is too "busy" to be paying attn to their driving

[millerized]

I'll give a recommendation of Blue Sea Systems products. I've used 3 of them in the past 3 months, and they're bulletproof. Designed for marine environments, a bike's weather is 'nothing' to them.
The ones with a negative buss make it near impossible to NOT find a good quality ground...something that's nearly always the common cause of poor performing circuitry. Some nice terminals crimped on the ends of your wires, it'll look very professional as well.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/catego ... s/ST_Blade for most items not needing switched, and https://www.bluesea.com/products/5032/S ... Fuse_Block for a split version (add your own relay type)
Available on Amazon, for a much better price than MSRP.