Safety Flashers on the Older Bikes
- MJSantos
- Posts: 322
- Joined: Wed Dec 16, 2009 9:19 pm
- Location: York, Pa
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100I
1983 GL1100 Custom
2002 Shadow
1983 Honda Magna V45
Safety Flashers on the Older Bikes
It's been awhile since I've posted to the forum so I say hello. I've seen a post where someone has been searching for the safety flashers on the GL1100s. I have come up with a simple solution and I'll work on a "How-To". I have come up with two variations of this and have added flashers to both of my 83 wings and the wife's Shadow and also my V45 Magna I just finished restoring. I hope to have the write-up done by the weekend. What caused this is we ride in a lot charity and benefit rides and we are always being asked to turn our flashers on. Now I have other friends wanting me to add them to the metric bikes.
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- Posts: 80
- Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2014 11:29 pm
- Location: Brighton, Ontario
- Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 Aspencade
1982 GS400E Suzuki
2009 CBR 125R HRC colors (daughter's bike)
1982 GL1100 Interstate
Re: Safety Flashers on the Older Bikes
Looking forward to your write-up.... been wondering about doing the same to mine.
Phil
Phil
- Aussie81Interstate
- Posts: 1178
- Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2014 2:34 am
- Location: Penrith Australia
- Motorcycle: 2001 GL1500F6C Valkyrie
1982 CX500 Turbo (Historic registration - finally)
1981 GL1100 Interstate (sold)
1988 GL1500 (sold)
Re: Safety Flashers on the Older Bikes
Would not mind seeing your solution - particularly if it is an easy one.
- MJSantos
- Posts: 322
- Joined: Wed Dec 16, 2009 9:19 pm
- Location: York, Pa
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100I
1983 GL1100 Custom
2002 Shadow
1983 Honda Magna V45
Re: Safety Flashers on the Older Bikes
I have come up with three different option that can be used. The basis for the three is I took into consideration the amount of space to install in. Then how much additional wiring did I want to add. I also wanted to keep from cutting into the existing wiring and doing splices.
The parts used depending on the options:
1. Butt splice connectors (Lowes)
2. Double Pole Single Throw Toggle Switch (Lowes)
3. Power Relay-MAGNECRAFT 92S7D22D-12 POWER RELAY DPST-NO 12VDC, 30A, DIN RAIL (Amazon)
4. 12V Heavy Duty LED Compatible Electronic No Load Fixed Flasher Turn Signal Flasher Relay (Amazon)
5. Yosoo 12V 16A Motorcycle Motorbike Waterproof Handlebar Headlight Fog Spot light On Off Switch (Silver) (Amazon)
6. 14-AWG stranded wire, color of your choice (Lowes)
With each drawing I have added a brief narrative of how it connects up and the basic principle and application This option was used on my wife’s Shadow. Due to the tight spaces I had already replaced her flasher unit with a two prong. The Green wire which is ground was folded back and not needed. The double pole switch was mounted under her seat on the right and the connections to the existing light wires was under the seat. On the output of the flasher relay I added a pigtail and used this as the common connection on the switch. You will see that I ganged the connections on the switch so when it is turned “On” the flasher will supply power to both the left and right light wiring harness to the bulbs. These connections are on the wiring back by the rear lights under the seat, easy to get to and out in the open. An added benefit is that both of your lights indicators in the dash will also light. I might point out that the only slight drawback is during the normal operation of your turn signals the dim element, running light, is turned off then comes back on once canceled. No big deal since the turn element is a lot brighter. This version came about when I did the custom white Goldwing and restored my 83 Magna. I wanted to keep any additional handle bar wiring to a minimum. I found these Yoso light switches on Amazon and figured to give them a try. Price was right and they have a built in light. As you can see the wiring is just a little more complex. These were fused on their own circuit, my Magna at the battery and the white bike at the power block. Since I removed the fairing on the white bike the relay, flasher module wound up in the tool try in the false tank. On the Magna there is a small tool compartment at the bottom of the sissy bar and it made a good home. The operation is simple, hit the switch which supplies power to the relay and the flasher. As with the switch in the first drawing the pins are ganged and you have both side flashing and the dash indicators going. I might add that if you use these switches the color code has to be followed. Black is the 12v in and the blue is the switched power out, brown is for the built in light. There were no directions with it. Finally the third option. This was by far the easiest one to do and believe it or not the one that’s on the 83 Interstate. Since we all know there is enough room inside of the fairing to house a cat then there’s way plenty to add this one. I already had a hole in the fairing so there was a mount for the switch. Power comes from the fuse block accessory terminal along with the ground. The connections to the wiring are right in front of you. Take both lights loose from the fairing and there you go the wiring is right in front of you.I promised you a simple solution and here it is. There’s probably more ways that can be found but simple and direct to me is the best way. Since I have done this modification to four of my bikes everything is holding up great.
The parts used depending on the options:
1. Butt splice connectors (Lowes)
2. Double Pole Single Throw Toggle Switch (Lowes)
3. Power Relay-MAGNECRAFT 92S7D22D-12 POWER RELAY DPST-NO 12VDC, 30A, DIN RAIL (Amazon)
4. 12V Heavy Duty LED Compatible Electronic No Load Fixed Flasher Turn Signal Flasher Relay (Amazon)
5. Yosoo 12V 16A Motorcycle Motorbike Waterproof Handlebar Headlight Fog Spot light On Off Switch (Silver) (Amazon)
6. 14-AWG stranded wire, color of your choice (Lowes)
With each drawing I have added a brief narrative of how it connects up and the basic principle and application This option was used on my wife’s Shadow. Due to the tight spaces I had already replaced her flasher unit with a two prong. The Green wire which is ground was folded back and not needed. The double pole switch was mounted under her seat on the right and the connections to the existing light wires was under the seat. On the output of the flasher relay I added a pigtail and used this as the common connection on the switch. You will see that I ganged the connections on the switch so when it is turned “On” the flasher will supply power to both the left and right light wiring harness to the bulbs. These connections are on the wiring back by the rear lights under the seat, easy to get to and out in the open. An added benefit is that both of your lights indicators in the dash will also light. I might point out that the only slight drawback is during the normal operation of your turn signals the dim element, running light, is turned off then comes back on once canceled. No big deal since the turn element is a lot brighter. This version came about when I did the custom white Goldwing and restored my 83 Magna. I wanted to keep any additional handle bar wiring to a minimum. I found these Yoso light switches on Amazon and figured to give them a try. Price was right and they have a built in light. As you can see the wiring is just a little more complex. These were fused on their own circuit, my Magna at the battery and the white bike at the power block. Since I removed the fairing on the white bike the relay, flasher module wound up in the tool try in the false tank. On the Magna there is a small tool compartment at the bottom of the sissy bar and it made a good home. The operation is simple, hit the switch which supplies power to the relay and the flasher. As with the switch in the first drawing the pins are ganged and you have both side flashing and the dash indicators going. I might add that if you use these switches the color code has to be followed. Black is the 12v in and the blue is the switched power out, brown is for the built in light. There were no directions with it. Finally the third option. This was by far the easiest one to do and believe it or not the one that’s on the 83 Interstate. Since we all know there is enough room inside of the fairing to house a cat then there’s way plenty to add this one. I already had a hole in the fairing so there was a mount for the switch. Power comes from the fuse block accessory terminal along with the ground. The connections to the wiring are right in front of you. Take both lights loose from the fairing and there you go the wiring is right in front of you.I promised you a simple solution and here it is. There’s probably more ways that can be found but simple and direct to me is the best way. Since I have done this modification to four of my bikes everything is holding up great.
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- Posts: 80
- Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2014 11:29 pm
- Location: Brighton, Ontario
- Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 Aspencade
1982 GS400E Suzuki
2009 CBR 125R HRC colors (daughter's bike)
1982 GL1100 Interstate
Re: Safety Flashers on the Older Bikes
Nice. Option 3 for me. Added to the 'To-Do' list for the winter.
Phil
Phil
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- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2010 6:04 pm
- Location: Carthage, Missouri, USA
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100A Aspencade, Wineberry color
Re: Safety Flashers on the Older Bikes
Excellent description of the options! I'm going to install Option #3. Thanks alot.
- newday777
- Posts: 2328
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 5:21 pm
- Location: Milford NH summer/fall & Oceanside, CA winters(N San Diego) with lots of miles riden between
- Motorcycle: 2008 Cabernet Red. Level 4
1983 GL1100A Wineberry 36,000 miles
1975 CB750 K5 Planet Blue 7,800 miles
1976 CB750 K6 Anterris Red 25,000 miles
Past rides
1999A Restored from PO neglect & sold at 19,000 miles
1999SE Totaled by cager at 105,000 miles
Re: Safety Flashers on the Older Bikes
Good write up.
Just a word of caution to all...Don't use scotchlock connectors as pictured. Theyare the worst thing to use as they break wires and come loose after road use.
Either solder and heat shrink wrap or use Tap it connectors
Just a word of caution to all...Don't use scotchlock connectors as pictured. Theyare the worst thing to use as they break wires and come loose after road use.
Either solder and heat shrink wrap or use Tap it connectors