Clutch temporary failure. Why?

[dingdong]

A few weeks ago I was stuck in a traffic backup on the highway for a couple of miles while riding the 1500. Stop and go one or two car lengths the entire 2 miles. When traffic cleared and while accelerating back to speed the clutch failed and I had to dry shift through the gears. No pressure at all on the lever. A couple of minutes afterwards the pressure returned and I haven't had the problem since. Any ideas on what could have caused this problem???

[dingdong]

A few weeks ago I was stuck in a traffic backup on the highway for a couple of miles while riding the 1500. Stop and go one or two car lengths the entire 2 miles. When traffic cleared and while accelerating back to speed the clutch failed and I had to dry shift through the gears. No pressure at all on the lever. A couple of minutes afterwards the pressure returned and I haven't had the problem since. Any ideas on what could have caused this. ???

[dingdong]

A few weeks ago I was stuck in a traffic backup on the highway for a couple of miles while riding the 1500. Stop and go one or two car lengths the entire 2 miles. When traffic cleared and while accelerating back to speed the clutch failed and I had to dry shift through the gears. No pressure at all on the lever. A couple of minutes afterwards the pressure returned and I haven't had the problem since. Before I just start throwing parts at it does anyone have any ideas on what could have caused this. ???

[ct1500]

Mechanical failure due to parts I doubt it. The slave is located just above the exhaust and it probably got hot enough to boil your clutch brake fluid. If your 1500 is idling on the lean side which most are that will raise exhaust temps which doesn't help either. Are all the heat shields in place and with fresh DOT4 fluid in the system?

[dingdong]

Good thought. That didn't occur to me. Everything is as it should be regarding the heat shields. Fluid flushed a year ago.

Sorry for all the same posts. Using my phone at the time.

[Bluewaterhooker0]

A few weeks ago I was stuck in a traffic backup on the highway for a couple of miles while riding the 1500. Stop and go one or two car lengths the entire 2 miles. When traffic cleared and while accelerating back to speed the clutch failed and I had to dry shift through the gears. No pressure at all on the lever. A couple of minutes afterwards the pressure returned and I haven't had the problem since. Before I just start throwing parts at it does anyone have any ideas on what could have caused this. ???

A couple of years back, I went to an air show at the local AFB, when we went to leave we were stuck in the mother of all traffic jambs. It took an hour to get off the base, maybe a mile, and into somewhat normal traffic. Where I live, the weather is Hot, Hotter, or Surface of the Sun. Not a lot of variety. Anyway, I didn't experience what you did, probably during a much longer duration, and certainly as hot as your conditions. Since you keep up with your fluid, I doubt it was a moisture or boiling issue.
Twice in my life with automobiles, I have experienced temporary brake failure. I hit the brakes, and straight to the floor. Nothing. The pedal comes back up, and poof, I've got normal brakes again. In both cases, I assumed the seals in the master cylinder has simply bypassed somehow. My immediate solution, as this was a very dangerous occurrence, was to replace the master cylinder. There were no re-occurrences of the issue. I would consider rebuilding your clutch master. It's not hard to access, and may be the solution.

[ct1500]

A couple of years back, I went to an air show at the local AFB, when we went to leave we were stuck in the mother of all traffic jambs. It took an hour to get off the base, maybe a mile, and into somewhat normal traffic. Where I live, the weather is Hot, Hotter, or Surface of the Sun. Not a lot of variety. Anyway, I didn't experience what you did, probably during a much longer duration, and certainly as hot as your conditions. Since you keep up with your fluid, I doubt it was a moisture or boiling issue.
Twice in my life with automobiles, I have experienced temporary brake failure. I hit the brakes, and straight to the floor. Nothing. The pedal comes back up, and poof, I've got normal brakes again. In both cases, I assumed the seals in the master cylinder has simply bypassed somehow. My immediate solution, as this was a very dangerous occurrence, was to replace the master cylinder. There were no re-occurrences of the issue. I would consider rebuilding your clutch master. It's not hard to access, and may be the solution.

Good point you bring up but I bet when the master went in the cars it was not in an unusual situation for the car like we are talking about here for Tom's ride which was extended idling in traffic. The seals in the master cylinder wouldn't know they were hot in traffic or on the moon they are either intact or not, this could be tested by heating the master with a heat gun to try and replicate the problem. We also do not know what the age or condition was of the added brake fluid from last year. All debris and contaminates in the brake fluid eventually find its' way to the lowest point and that is the slave cylinder which would be most affected by heat from the exhaust so if any hard parts would be at fault it would be there IMO per the OP's original complaint. My advice is to always re-build both parts of the system while it is down, master and slave and not one or the other as it is only 10 or $20 more.
We can then move onto the topic of quality on the Chinlee brake fluid being marketed as synthetic at your local store. Supposed to boil at 284F for DOT 3 which you would never notice in a car but in reality when does it boil? Certainly not higher.

[dingdong]

Thanks guys. I always use new un-opened brake fluid. I will more than likely just rebuild both. I just hate using the shotgun technique and hope to fix the problem. Any recommendations on quality rebuild kits.